Just wanted to share my stoke

[bomber35]

Hey all, I don't post often and more or less lurk from time to time. If you look at my post history, you'll see that I have not surfed very long. I was a late bloomer and didn't start until I was 35. Having said that, I started on a 9' longboard when I first started an had a hell of a time getting going...I wanna say it took me around 5 months of surfing 3-4 days a week to get to standing up and riding straight down on a drop in...no bottoms turns yet!

Around 9 months into this new endeavor, I was able to pop up consistently and bottom turn with mild success. During this time I rode my first step down board as well...to a friends 7'10". My abilities increased during those 2 months with the shorter board. I was able to maneuver better, get better bottom turns and paddle out much easier. My taste for a shorter board grew.

Come this past January, I had a 7'6" board shaped for me by a local shaper and it has been great. Since then, I have slowly been working on slow cutbacks, and surfing "down the line." these 2 skills have been my greatest challenges. Then 2 months ago, things "clicked" for me. I was on a business trip in Hawaii and rented a longboard. I have never surfed down the line anywhere like I did there. I know Waikiki is famous for being able to that...but to say the least, it opened up my abilities. Since then, my abilities at my local break and on my board have improved steadily once again. Just yesterday I surfed the longest goofy-footed run on a clean right than I ever have before. I was able to carve up and down the face of the wave with relative ease. Needless to say my stoke factor was through the roof...and still is!!!

I guess the whole point of my diatribe/story, is that no matter what I stuck with this hobby/sport. My wife would say it has taken over my life...she may be right. I know I have a lot of learning to do, and I'm already thinking about the next board...and the next chance I have to practice some cutbacks and fin wafts!

[jaffa1949]

Go bomber go it's great to see you so stoked!
You'll have an interesting next few years as your wife becomes used to your new mistress.
Find ways to be inclusive of your wife and all will go well.
I get told to go for a surf when I look stressed.
I plan to look stressed tomorrow as both my wife and I can hear the surf building!
Since retirement I don't have to look stressed any more I can go whenever and do other stuff on non surf days . It has however taken over 40 years to get here.

[Jimi]

My wife would say it has taken over my life...she may be right. I know I have a lot of learning to do, and I'm already thinking about the next board...and the next chance I have to practice some cutbacks and fin wafts!

Great stuff, but I'm afraid your wife may be correct - Surfing will easily take over your life if you let it!!

P.S. I share your stoke - I'm currently in that lovely post surf glow from a great day at Maroubra (Sydney). 4ft all morning with clean offshores, and then another quick surf in the evening after uni! (Shoulders are pretty sore now so I bet I sleep well tonight!)