Yep it's laid back alright, the professional side of surfing leaves a trail of broken dreams and unhappy psyches by the low tide mark.
Millions of aspiring adolescent cashed up kids believe that by putting on boardshort X will make you a "cool dude" the marketing has penetrated even to the scions of the Russian oil billionaires , the lifestyle is traded on the stockmarket floor HMMMMM
This is not an old guy rant although I grew up surfing before surfing became popular the first time ( ala Gidget).
It is simple the masses have bought the marketing not the reality, post one example.
- and guess what? They sell! $4000.00 each
Aaagh soul
Me, I go down the beach to my local surf find that it's on or not, I walk the beach, I surf, I hang out with myself , maybe with company, I've done the morning of the earth thing, now it's the afternoon of my life I'm fad free and able to choose my own path, I can be laid back, I'm lucky, blessed and I've earnt that space.
I am aware that the majority of the world does not have that option. So at times I go to third world countries and do volunteer work that too blesses me.
It's simple sit on your surfboard out at your favourite break listen to the bitching about non-consequentials from the people around you, let it drift by and think, the majority of people in the world cannot even have this moment and you will realise how you are blessed.
Here endeth the sermon!
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
