i managed to stand up on the 5th or 6th wave on the first day (my experiance from wakeboarding surely did help me)... i was stoked...! a grin all over ma face...
but from that day on, it all went down hill...
the teachers thought, i should go with the intermediates after the 3rd day, so we went out on the reefs and the outside, bigger, beach breakes.... its save to say, i basically didnt catch any waves the propper way for the following 7 days... i either nosedived, (and i did so a lot) or fell off the board as soon as i tried getting to my feet, if managing that at all.... i swallowed so much water and got washed and wrecked by the waves.... after those 7 days, i was very very frustrated....
on the 10th day of surfing we went to shark bay and we had a 7.10 NSP hardboard spare because one of the guys didnt show up and i grabbed it for me for that day... it was the day, as we use to say, when the coin fell....
i paddled out, arrived in the line up just when a set rolled in.. paddled right away into the take off, tore my board around and started paddling as if there was no tomorrow... the wave sucked me in, felt the push, poped up and there i was, standing on my board right on the pocket of an 6-8ft reef wave riding it all the way in....
all the pain, all the salt, all the washing and every single nosedive was gone..vanished, obliterated by the oh so sweet full body sensation of me riding down this wave...
that day, i rode more waves than all the days before together... i was a happy bunny....
