I'm back. For good.

[gar]

So I surfed for sporadically for 2 years at home in ireland, then lived on south shore of oahu for 4 months surfing Kaisers at least once a day, got pretty proficient at riding backside (i still cant ride rights to save my life), then moved to australia and had my gf break up with me, re-discovered going out and getting pissed and hitting on girls and knocked surfing on the head for a good part of 5 years.

I was walking down Freshie beach, Northern beaches of sydney where I live now, about a month ago and the surf caught my eye. It was the way I used to love it at home. 2-4ft and clean. And I thought "what the f*** am I doing? I love to snowboard and complain that I only get to go every couple of years and I have this amazing playground on my doorstep, practically free"

The following week I picked up a 2nd hand board and wettie on gumtree and have been back in the water 4 or 5 times since.

I am a kook again and loving it. I'm picking it up reasonably quickly and I've already gotten the frustration and the itch when it's flat a few days in a row.

I'm back in the water and don't ever intend to leave.

[drowningbitbybit]

Glad to hear it!!!

[kazawaza2000]

isn't it crazy ( and wrong) how life can get in the way and stop you doing what you love and should really be doing.... and sometimes you can't even see it that post was near a year ago, hope it's been a suf filled year for ye