fear of exhaustion. How do I overcome this?

[catevary]

Hi guys.
I am a novice surfer who only started last summer (I am in a souther hemisphere, so I am in my second summer of surfing)

About a month or so ago, I had quite a harrowing experience out in the surf when I was caught in a flash rip when I was paddling back to the shore after quite a long session out in the lineup (wiping out constantly, being a novice and all).
The local point which I go to is prone to tidal rips/flash rips and often has quite a strong current...

Anyway, after this experience of exhaustion, I have developed somewhat of a trauma where I will feel super anxious at the first sign of being tired, or after a nasty wipeout, or even being caught in a rip.... The effect is that I immediately start paddling back to the shore in a hurry.
This is starting to really irritate me because the session is becomming no more than 10 minutes or so, to a degree that I will feel anxious by the time that I make it to the line up...
I will 'feel' exhausted much earlier than I should and start panicking

Anyone had a similar experience?

Even if you hadnt any tips on getting over this issue?

Only thing that I am hoping for at the moment is that I eventually grow out of it but it is really becomming a nuisance on enjoying this summer...


Thanks

[Surf Hound]

The best way to overcome any fear is to just take it "head-on". Fear comes from the not knowing and I think you are just.... not knowing of your local rips/tides etc. As a surfer we all tend to be pretty good waterman with time and I think that's all you need.

[Forage]

Yea, I had problems with that. After getting caught in a rip a few times I got spooked, and then it was this situation where if I was tired when I made it out back I'd want to come straight in, because I didn't feel up to a long paddle if I got caught short.

Fear can be a good thing. Especially when you're surfing in a place that you describe as having a lot of current and a lot of rips. My suggestion would be to start getting some laps in at the pool, and eventually open ocean swimming. Nothing will help your confidence like knowing that you can swim a few miles in the event that something happens.

Also, make sure you either surf with a buddy or that someone always knows you're out and when you should be getting back. But that's not specific to you, that's just good advice any time you go out into any kind of wilderness.

[jaffa1949]

Forage's advice is good try to go surfing with friend, a little bit of moral support will help and looking out for each other.
Take a little time and do the swimming and conditioning.
I would advise all new surfers to sit and watch the beach and know it under as many different conditions as possible!

Here is a big thing to learn........never try to swim against a rip,definitely exhausting an likely to make you panic! DANGEROUS COMBO. Swim or paddle across the rip, if it's a point across the rip away from the rocks.
If you need to get in and you are on a board let the waves wash you in, you might get a pounding but you'll end up on the beach.

Now about the actual anxiety. Take small surf days after you have looked at the conditions and you are with reliable friend, paddle out with a small rip paddle across and out of it. Catch a wave in lying down, you could use a body board and flippers as an option..Repeat the process a number of times.
Feel more confident each time.
Since you live in the southern hemisphere (Australia?) maybe talk to the local surf lifesaving club. They are always happy to help you understand the beach and it's rips and other conditions.

BTW Almost all point breaks have a consistent rip beside the point as the water from the wave cannot get out on the point .
An express way to get back out.
Question what beach are you talking about, I might know someone there who can keep an eye out for you.

[Melisagrom]

I had a similar experience too.. went out at the local break the other day and it was a washing machine, currents going all directions, never been in anything like it. came in after a couple of waves, not good at all great advice from people on the forum. as jaffa said, if you're in australia look into a lifesaving course- it'll give you more confidence as well as better skills. not sure about other countries but I know aus has an awesome lifesaving program.
what I did is have a couple of surfs in smaller waves where the currents aren't so hektic to get my confidence back to charge the bigger stuff. not to mention always surf with someone else, it can get nasty fast in the water so it's good to have a friend there, you'll feel more comfortable, + someone to add legitimacy to your bragging later haha!
sometimes when I've spent heaps of energy paddling out I'll wait behind where the sets are coming through and just sit on the unbroken swells to have a breather. don't just rush everything if you dont really have to, it's just a recipe for a fast wipeout and another long paddle back. wait till you have some focus.
ultimately, you don't want to regret anything, but there's a line between going for it and being plain reckless. get out there as much as you can but don't put yourself in bad situations, you want to surf another day. but these guys have given awesome advice, if you do that you should be able to charge stacks. I dont know how those big wave guys do it, far out. I like my oxygen

[Surfer513]

I agree with the above comment, that fear is definitely a beneficial emotion especially in a dangerous environment like the Ocean. however, like in almost all situations, knowledge not only gives you a confidence but it also helps you get out of certain situations. like mentioned above, never paddle against a rip! they are on average a quarter mile. even if it's a mile, it may seem like you are pretty far out to sea by the time the rip current empties out, but you are by no means in any serious danger. not to mention you are strapped to one of the most buoyant things you can put in the water...a surfboard. as long as you have your board next to you, just take some comfort in the fact that you are not going to "go under" (as long as you keep your head on your shoulders). wait out a rip, or paddle parallel to the shoreline.

comfort and confidence is gained with more time and experience in the Ocean...surfing and just being there. also, you will get a pretty good idea of your limitations for swell size and general conditions. I'm sure more than a few of us have ventured into an onshore storm that was just a little too much to handle.

mental exhausting comes with experience and knowledge, but physical exhaustion can be battled with conditioning. lucky for us, the best conditioning for surfing is surfing!

[JoshAggars]

Just keep at it bro as we've all faced the fear at some point or other and you just have to battle through it. Deffie get a bud out there with you if you have the real fear as being in the water with a friend helps no doubt. And do some extra conditioning work on shore if you get the chance just to give you that little bit of extra confidence in the water. But as has been said you just need to face your fear head on and time in the water is the only way (just start off small and build up and don't be a hero and put yourself in danger by being totally reckless).

Your board is your friend and will keep you afloat as surfer513 said so just hang on in there and don't let the fear overcome you. Personally I'm quite into pilates and all that jazz so breathing exercises always help me if ever I need to face something down.

Good luck, you'll get there.

[jaffa1949]

There are two very good articles in Surfers' Path November/December 2010 issue one on Rips and points and headlands (it is part 2 so obviously part 1 was the previous issue) by Tony Butt who has a PhD in Physical Oceanography.
The other on your body " It's about the rider, not the board," by Paul Coker a Physiotherapist who is also a surfer in Cornwall.
I would recommend these articles to any new or old surfer who is wanting to understand their surfing.