i have been surfing for 1,5 years now since i moved to the caribbean from europe and i love it so much. not only because im a nature lover, especially the ocean, i get bored really fast with everything in life and here i got years of learning and getting better before i can even think about to get bored of it.
well. i started with boogieboard but i felt the need to stand up very fast which is why i bought a longboard. im one of those people that like to learn everything by trying and so i did it. just took me a few weeks and i am very comfortable already and got balance and all that.
now the reason why i write here is because even with trying to be not too careless about my safety, i finally got hurt. and it hurts bad..
i tried to avoid the surf spots with reef just 1-3 feets below the water surface but i like bigger waves. i mostly surf on a spot where big waves come in from the open ocean and with really powerful waves here in PR but with no reef in some places.
the last time i surfed like 3-4 days ago i just wanted to get back to the shore and tried to get one more good wave, but got fleshin' up. it was wave closer to the shore, which i usually dont take. im one of those people that wait more far out there for bigger waves to ride longer on it.
anyways. i got into the tube and got twisted really bad and fast and i dont even remember exactly what happend beside that i am sure i hit the side of my chest to the ground and that the ground was no sand but a rock. i also cut my finger and saw a few birds so i forgot about my chest. the other thing was that i went surfing with a nerve squeezed in my arm/shoulder so i thought the pain is still from that.
2 days later i realized that i must have hurt something deeper inside my body. it felt like a got a big punch in my side but with nothing like bruses to see. so i thought, well maybe its just from the hit and it will hurt a day or two. but now 4 days passed and every day the pain get stronger. i can only breathe about 30% and get the first pain

many will think: why he don't jsut go to a doctor. well first of all i dont like doctors very much, which have more to do with my personal opinion on billion dollar industry with medicine and chemicals than with doctors itself. but i was hoping if somebody could tell me whaty it might me. it can only be a injury on a muscle or my lung. i dont think anything else is in the area. its even hard to locate the position where the pain comes from but it is somewhere below my rips, below my shoulders and the side of my body.
i usually wait all things out but i start to get a little worried this time especially because sleeping is a nightmare right now..
thanks for the answers and greetings from san juan. and sorry for my english, its not my first language.
chris
