So even though I've technically been surfing for about 2 years, I'm still very much a beginner because I've only started to get serious about it in the last month or two. Right now I ride a 6,6 retro fish and I'm looking to progress to either a 5,10 retro or about a 6,4 or 6,2 hybrid fish.
I went surfing on the Florida east coast yesterday and the day before. It was actually a total of 4 seperate sessions as I went in the morning, noon, evening, and morning of the next day. The first session I would have to say I did very well. The conditions were clean 2-3 footers and I'm finally progressing to the point where I'm making a smooth carve or two on the wave when I can catch it.
My next two sessions were horrible. The winds picked up and the waves grew to about 4-5 footers. I got the crap beaten out of me lol. I couldn't for the life of me catch a decent wave. The only thing that kept happening was my board would nose under and I would topple end over end or the wave would pick me up, I'd stand, but I would still be on top of the wave as it broke and I would drop and just fall forward. I don't know what my problem really was other than maybe the waves were just breaking too quickly because of the wind? I feel as if my board had more rocker it wouldn't nose under. My question is what can I do to catch these waves better?
My last session was slightly better as the waves were milder.