most important thing?

[perusurf]

when im getting my lungs and sinus cleaned out by salt water.

about that... everytime i come out i get a lot of water dripping out of my nose, even after hours later, if i lean my head forward, then it starts dripping, is funny, i used to go surfing before work sometimes and at work suddenly my nose would start dripping, haha, kinda' emberrassing, does that happen to all of you??? or do i have some type of water container/sponge up there???? i don't see that happening to my friends, or not as much...

[pkbum]

when im getting my lungs and sinus cleaned out by salt water.

about that... everytime i come out i get a lot of water dripping out of my nose, even after hours later, if i lean my head forward, then it starts dripping, is funny, i used to go surfing before work sometimes and at work suddenly my nose would start dripping, haha, kinda' emberrassing, does that happen to all of you??? or do i have some type of water container/sponge up there???? i don't see that happening to my friends, or not as much...

Yeah salts suppose to clean all those mucus out of your nose and stomach. I see a lot of people cough yellow gewy stuff out of their mouth.

[Silver Surfer]

yep, that Zen moment of zero stress when its just you and the ocean and nothing else exists. Absolutely! And sometimes its nice to have a bit of a breather too!

[Sar]

I once drove 4 hrs to Newquay for a surf, got there and the surf was more powerfull than I expected, couldnt get it together enough to go for 1 wave. I was waaay to chicken to do it, the waves were just too far out of my comfort zone. Eventually got out after catching nothing and drove 4 hours home. On the whole it was a nice day, beats sitting at home watching TV anyway

[Silver Surfer]

Sar, your so right. We have all had days like that. Its not about being heros, its just about going with the flow. Just being in the water is great excercise and as you said beats being in front of the telly.

Still, its good practice for when the conditions are right!

[perusurf]

i've driven a bit further to get to biarritz and hossegor in france, but i didn't get in 'cuz it was impossible and nobody was surfing, it sucked! it was a nice sunny day though, had french lunch, walked around a little, then headed back.

[garbarrage]

spend most of my time wipin out often doin full on cartwheels down the face of waves... if i can't be the best surfer out there gonna be the best at falling off... all good tho. just being out there is good for the soul.
normally catch a cpuple of waves tho. then every so often have a session where I catch my "best wave ever"... then spend all my time till the next session thinkin about that wave. oh yeah