California surf is pounding!

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California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:59 am

We're having the biggest storms since JAN 2010. Here's a photo from NorCAL. This photo was made a Mclure Beach at the north end of Point Reyes National Seashore by Don Dianda. Quite a few years ago on a 14 ft day, I had a very close call near this beach. I badly wiped out. In addition to getting the rag doll treatment, a rib was broken in my back when the board's nose slammed me. I was drowning and near terminal and just when everything went black, Mrs. Morini saved my life. However, the surf that day was nothing like in this photo.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:10 am

Real close the the Santa Barbara city center, there's a surf break that only truly breaks during the larger storms. It's called Sand Spit and is within several hundreds yards of Sterns Wharf. When it breaks, it's usually very good. This photo was made Saturday morning by Steve McGovern. The surf was only medium (for when it breaks), as evidenced by the quantity of surfers. On the truly epic days, only world elite and super-talented locals can handle it. Steve reported, “The shot of the Breakwater with the big wave is actually a shot of the incoming wave hitting the outgoing surge bouncing off the wall. The Breakwater surfing site was a bit crowded this morning.” Billie adds, "If you mess up, you get dashed on the angular boulders that protect the marina."
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:14 am

Here's another interesting photo made on Saturday morning by Steve McGovern. We're not revealing where. The oil platforms in the distant background provide adequate information for some viewers to determine the identity of this break.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:25 am

Here's Roxy Ridgeback on Saturday afternoon checking out some (sort-of) peeling waves from a cliff above a semi-secret break on the Gaviota Coast. Who knew Roxy is a surf hound? For many generations (before the selfish landowner purchased the property between Roxy and the pier), local Goleta teenagers spent entire weekends camping and surfing in this area. Goleta is a village (unincorporated town) west of Santa Barbara. Times were simpler then. Kids were safe. The previous landowner was generous.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:46 am

Here's a photo from San Diego's Ocean Beach (source http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... t-sea.html). Unfortunately, there was a tragedy there when two women were pulled in from shore by monster waves.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:49 am

These photos show a few conditions from NorCAL (north of San Francisco) to SoCAL. If anyone can provide photo(s) from Humboldt County, which is truly NorCAL, then I'd appreciate it. For the the uninitiated, Humboldt County is where surfers regularly check to see that waves are small enough to surf. Oh, it's cold, too!
:surfing:
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby RinkyDink » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:02 am

It's big, but it's been raining. Check your local water quality so you don't end up with some godawful bacteria up your nose.

http://www.surfrider.org/blue-water-tas ... chapter/33
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby Big H » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:06 am

billie_morini wrote:Humboldt County is where surfers regularly check to see that waves are small enough to surf. Oh, it's cold, too!
:surfing:

....famous for some other things as well..... :roll: 8) :lol:
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:17 am

Big H wrote:
billie_morini wrote:Humboldt County is where surfers regularly check to see that waves are small enough to surf. Oh, it's cold, too!
:surfing:

....famous for some other things as well..... :roll: 8) :lol:



True dat. But, like ex-President Bill Clinton famously stated, "Yes, but I did not inhale." :lol: :D :) :o :P
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby dtc » Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:43 am

I have been reading about how 6 years of garbage in the drought affected rivers are now being flushed into the ocean...sounds great!
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby RinkyDink » Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:27 pm

dtc wrote:I have been reading about how 6 years of garbage in the drought affected rivers are now being flushed into the ocean...sounds great!

I went out one day last month, had a good session, came home and shivered all night and the next day. I had the chills for about a day. I'm not sure what it was, but it was enough to get me to heed the advice of the health experts and avoid polluted water.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:21 pm

That first picture has massive whitewater. I bet there is tow in happening somewhere.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby BoMan » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:22 pm

CasparBig.JPG

Today's webcam view of Caspar Beach in Mendocino County.

Caspar1.jpg

Same spot on a "normal day."
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby Brian » Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:04 pm

It has been unsurfable here in Huntington as far as I can tell. The water looks and smells naaaasty too. Once the wind dies down it looks like it could be great though.
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby BoMan » Thu Jan 26, 2017 3:11 am

Image

"Maybe I should've gone left"
Stinson Beach, CA
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby saltydog » Thu Jan 26, 2017 4:43 am

Amazing photos.
Last weekend I was all stoked to be finally having the time and in good health to go surf... only to find the waves were OH+. Too big for my comfort but supposedly there were about 200 people in the water at my favorite break. Unreal. Wish I could find the photo of that.

RinkyDink wrote:It's big, but it's been raining. Check your local water quality so you don't end up with some godawful bacteria up your nose.

http://www.surfrider.org/blue-water-tas ... chapter/33

This gives me a good chance to ask something kooky. I've read about 72hr guidelines but I see cars with surfboards as early as 6-12hrs after the rain stops. Is it safe enough to go out sooner than 72hrs if the breaks are not near the populated area or known nasty run-off? What do you guys usually do?
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby saltydog » Thu Jan 26, 2017 4:47 am

billie_morini wrote:Here's another interesting photo made on Saturday morning by Steve McGovern. We're not revealing where. The oil platforms in the distant background provide adequate information for some viewers to determine the identity of this break.

I wonder if it's where I think it is... if so I haven't surf there but taken walks before. Really awesome area :D
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby billie_morini » Thu Jan 26, 2017 6:09 am

saltydog posted above:
"This gives me a good chance to ask something kooky. I've read about 72hr guidelines but I see cars with surfboards as early as 6-12hrs after the rain stops. Is it safe enough to go out sooner than 72hrs if the breaks are not near the populated area or known nasty run-off? What do you guys usually do?"

billie replies:
"My quote button is not working. Therefore, saltydog, your question was pasted above. Some guys surf no matter what the water quality is (see photo showing surfer after session at Haskell's in 1969 Santa Barbara oil spill [credit http://goletahistory.com/tar/]). It's always wise to pass on surfing following the first good rain of the year, even in San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara City, and Ventura City breaks. This includes places like Pismo Beach, Mondos, Rincon, Ledbetter, Campus Point, Devereux, and C Street. I give it two days. As Winter wears on, this becomes less necessary. Out in Gaviota, I'm in the sea as early as 4 to 6 hours after rain following the first good Winter rain. If it is the first good rain, I give it two day even out there because I possess an underperforming immune system. Sometimes, I surf in the rain (following the first good rain). Many of us do. I had many sessions in NorCAL (Santa Cruz' 38th and Pleasure Point, Pacifica's Linda Mar, and Marin County's Dillon Beach). To directly answer your question, it is safe to go into the sea 24 to 36 hours after rain if break is not near populated area and/or is not known to have nasty run-off."
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Re: California surf is pounding!

Postby BoMan » Fri Jan 27, 2017 6:52 pm

"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Everything You’ve Ever Wanted to Know About Surfing After It

Postby billie_morini » Sat Feb 04, 2017 2:27 am

saltydog wrote:Amazing photos.
Last weekend I was all stoked to be finally having the time and in good health to go surf... only to find the waves were OH+. Too big for my comfort but supposedly there were about 200 people in the water at my favorite break. Unreal. Wish I could find the photo of that.

RinkyDink wrote:It's big, but it's been raining. Check your local water quality so you don't end up with some godawful bacteria up your nose.

http://www.surfrider.org/blue-water-tas ... chapter/33

This gives me a good chance to ask something kooky. I've read about 72hr guidelines but I see cars with surfboards as early as 6-12hrs after the rain stops. Is it safe enough to go out sooner than 72hrs if the breaks are not near the populated area or known nasty run-off? What do you guys usually do?


Salty:
here's something new
http://www.theinertia.com/surf/everythi ... odal-close

"It’s been raining A LOT in California. How much, you ask? In the last month the Golden State’s been hit with not just one but two “atmospheric river” events. There’s been swell, sure, but with the threat of hypodermic needles the question remains: when’s the best time to get back in the water.

Back in October, our friends at the Surfrider Foundation, along with the Southern California Coastal Water Research Project (SCCWRP); University of California, Berkeley, School of Public Health; and Soller Environmental, published a first-of-its-kind study to quantify the health risks of going in the ocean after a rain. We also reached out to Surfrider for some additional info. Here is everything you should know about surfing after it rains:

1. You’re definitely more likely to get sick after it rains
First and foremost, the Surfrider study found a significant correlation between water quality and illness rates during wet weather. This isn’t surprising by any means, but now there’s data to back it up.

2. The 72-hour rule is a solid rule of thumb
We’ve all heard, “County officials advise against ocean water contact for up to 72 hours after a rain.” According to the study, “Illness rates were highest when surfing during rain and the first day after the rain. Illness rates decreased with each day following rain, declining to near baseline levels after 3 days.” In other words, waiting three days is a good rule of thumb.

3. It’s not strictly a SoCal thing
Surfers in California typically understand that you take your life in your hands surfing after it rains. It’s worth noting that Surfrider’s study tested water exclusively in San Diego County. But, according to Rick Wilson, a senior staff scientist at Surfrider, elevated bacteria levels impact more than just Southern California (even areas that receive way more rain). I asked him, for instance, why people seemed (to me at least) to be less concerned about surfing after a rain or snow in New York. “I’m not sure why (or if) the problem should be less severe in NY,” he said. “I would think it would be bad wherever there was a large urban area with a high percentage of impervious surface. In fact, if anything, I would think NY would be worse than LA/OC/SD because we have separate storm drain and sanitary sewer systems in SoCal and NY has a combined sewer system.” Wilson mentioned that barrier islands on the East Coast could essentially shield surfers from the worst water. But, the point is surfers everywhere should be mindful of the potential risks.

4. How’s Norovirus sound?
Ok, so if you surf after a rain you’re probably gonna get sick. But if it’s firing and nobody’s out at your local, you may find yourself weighing the options. A cold, you might say, is worth it for hours of head high pits to yourself. In San Diego, Surfrider found that, “Norovirus was detected in 96% of samples from San Diego River and 72% from Tourmaline Creek during a rain event.” According to the CDC, “Norovirus causes your stomach or intestines or both to get inflamed. This leads you to have stomach pain, nausea, and diarrhea and to throw up.” There is no specific treatment for Norovirus. In addition to gastro-intestinal illnesses, Surfrider also found an increased frequency of rashes, infected cuts, and a variety of other infections during wet weather.

5. Where you surf matters
Obviously, the difference between detecting Norovirus in 96% and 72% of samples (see above) is significant. It goes to show that even between two areas that are within a few miles of each other, where you choose to paddle out is important. Surfrider found that bacteria levels decreased the further away from both the San Diego River and Tourmaline Creek that samples were taken.

6. “If it’s brown, turn around”
In addition to the 72-hour rule, Rick Wilson suggested a few more words to live by. “Certainly if the water is brown from sediment it isn’t a good idea to go out,” he said. “If it’s brown, turn around.”"

:surfing:
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