Surfing Waves

...just like surfers do when He walked on water.

How do you feel?

What makes surfing special in your life, an emotion, the exercise, the attraction? Let me know if you have a few moments to put down some thoughts.

I've been surfing since '67 and I'm curious about how other surfers may express themselves regarding surfing. Pesonally, I've never been able to articulately convey all the things about surfing that have affected my manner, my life and my soul.

Carp, this is starting to sound like a chick flick.

If you feel like it...

I gotta admit, I became interested in surfing from TV. I was transfixed with how gracefully surfers glided across the water, and the music that accompanied the clips. It seemed so elusive to me. I've always lived "inland" from the beach so I cherished every moment I had a a chance to go. I admired surfers and envied their comfort with the ocean. They seemed so cool compared to the pale families covered in sunblock hiding under umbrellas in the sand.

When I had the opportunity to try surfing, I became instantly aware of how difficult it was. I thought all you needed was a board and viola, you're surfing. I got hammered, near drowned, pile driven into the sand, thrown through the laundry, stung by jellyfish, attacked by evil seaweed, and ended each session nearly puking up seawater. Being so far from the beach didn't give me the opportunity to surf much and each time I tried, it was the same.

My daughter finally took up surfing. I enrolled her in a class, for safety reason, and especially cause I didn't want her to repeat what I'd went through. She loved it and soon I was buying her wetsuits, and a board. She was only surfing the wash, but it looked so fun. I decided to give it another try and would take my time to learn the basics. No need to rush. It's been a blast learning. I now live in a place near the beach and get out several times a week. My skin tanned, my muscles toned, my stress level reduced. My eyes opened up to a much larger world than those playing volleyball on the beach. I've seen my reflection off the skin of a dolphin. I've shooed away curious seals. I've bobbed on swells to the rhythm of nature and when I've earned it, was given the most thrilling ride mother nature can provide.

when i first went out i ate xxxxx for over 1/2 an hour. But the first time you get up and you ride a wave into shore cuz ur not good enough to turn is the best feeling ive ever had. it honestially feeles like you're walking on water its just the most amazing feeling. i know if i surf for a day and get even one good ride in its amazing. when i was out last week ( i live in N.S so the water is freezing) i went in my summer suit in december. i was freeezing my ass off cuz im broke as xxxxx and dont have the money to get a winter suit. i was cold but i got up on my wave and it was completially worth it to everyone else who doesnt surf they will never quite understand why its worth it.
-kay:)

San Diego Longboarder wrote:...just like surfers do when He walked on water.

Surfing: Walking on water and dancing in God's creation

(I know I stole it....)


wow, I just noticed this is a really old thread....

I feel like I am on top of the world and all the houses on the beach are smaller than me. One with creation and really cold in the winter. Thats how surfing makes me feel. Oh yeah dehydrated and salty. I love salt. Drink water. But not sea water. And don't play with the sharks. They can be kinda mean.

Ive only been surfing a couple of weeks, but ive gotten everyday except one. I am addicted. What drives me is definitely the emotion and the thrill.

I skateboarded for 5 years and when you wreck, it hurts but you get right back up. In the ocean, if you wipe out, the waves dont stop so you can get up. They just keep coming and coming. And when you finally do get up and catch a wave, its almost like you conqured it. Everything about surfing is better than anything else I have ever done. i will definitely stick with it.

I live half of my life in Indonesia and during that time never once I was remotely interested in surfing or even heard anything about it (I know of surfing but never heard anything about it in my circle). I became interested in surfing at the age of 36 when I moved to Ireland. I was in search of inner peace after I lost my father 2 years ago. Then I found that peace when I first glide on top of a surfboard. I fell in love with surfing ever since and sees it as my sanctuary from all things undesirable. To me, surfing is all about good and positive. It even help me quit smoking. And to top it all, I have a loving and supporting husband despite his zero interest in surfing