Surfing Waves

Tomorrow the Atlantic
Jaffa and son of Jaffa the eldest Smartie ( Aussie and British version) present their vegemite toned bodies to the western shores of Europe to encounter the Sardine encrusted coasts of Portugal.
Results as yet unknown. There will be photos and maybe a video epic, could be fully self indulgence and just surfing
Sardines, wait with baited breath!

Jaffa, when you arrive at Portugal. You need to have a taste of Gooseneck barnacles. I think they call it Percebes over there. It is a delicacy! They are much better than oysters and clams. It's a taste of the local seawater.

Not a great fan of bivalves, but you never know!
Uncle Jaffa is fairly pedestrian in eating habits!
Thank you

Enjoy! For summer, Waves and weather have been good here in SW France and should get even better next week. We (my daughter, her boyfriend and me) will surf Cote des Basques in Biarritz over the weekend - conditions look nice! Nothing beats surfing with the family.

True dat!

Bedtime in Peniche, I’ve been a good boy, please send surf!

Further to that, a full demonstration of the severe dwindling of skill of a 69 year old after 3 years of very little surf.
A hundred different kook fails unleashed, timing positioning sweet spot on board to paddle etc .
Weary but happy two surfs and there is amazing scope for rapid improvement

By the way Jaffa barnacles are crustaceans more closely related to a crab or shrimp rather than an oyster or a clam. While I have not eaten them I hear they taste closer to shrimp than clam

We are expecting 8ft tomorrow and 9ft monday , even tonight the ocean is wild already. I gladly send 4ft down south

Biarritz was disappointing today. Waves looked good, but a a very persistent secondary swell made positioning quite difficult.

If you can still surf at 69 despite 3 years absence, you have given me hope that I have another 20 years in me

The usual dilemma occurs no matter how badly I am surfing I cannot shoot myself
So here is a shot of son John ,on a kneeboard at Lagido.
.
This standard of wave this morning but cleaned up and sunny now so I’ll shoot my son again

Will work on most photos when I get back to my editing suite!

9ft are here and look impressive, but are unsurfable for this old person. But not just for me - there is noone out there at all anyway. Getting only slightly smaller to 7ft in the afternoon with the typical 15mph onshore and extreme currents, so this will be the 2nd layday in a row.

Time really flies. I was staying right infront of Lagide in 2014. I went out Lagide a couple of times and the point break was dominated by locals. It gives a nice really long left. I went out when it was around overhead and the volume of water and the current was putting fear in me. I really didn't enjoy that day. The super thick wetsuit obviously didn't help as I wasn't able to paddle. I probably shouldn't have gone out as it was a little rough for me and if the leash snapped. I would definitely need assistance getting back to shore.

This following photo is on a nicer calmer day which I didn't go out at all. I knew my limits and just took pictures.

Had great morning only 5 early birds out, got everything work and rode quite well considering!
grabbed the bigger ones and they were very clean!
Resting now and another day tomorrow!

jaffa, some river boarding action that reminded me of you

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bl3fdGmFqiu ... =kookslams

Is your son wearing a helmet in your photo? Does he find it annoying or its fine/he is used to it? Was reading a Nick Carroll piece about the severe lack of medical care in Indo surf trips and someone commented about why surfers just didnt wear helmets more often.

Son John really likes his Gath helmet, essential we believe on the river surf.
Surf as a knee boarder every drop in is entering at head contact level. I have had a helmet split on my head in surf contact, hate to think what would have done to a naked skull.
I have one too.
Forget the visor models the distortion of vision is weird and they steam up on cold days, stuffs an epic winter drop!
Sun protection yep, earprotection and some protection against surfers’ ear.
Just aren’t cool.
But then neither are ear plugs ( blue tack is cool), sunscreen , surfers have a large list of self neglect latter day diseases and injuries

Good point re drop ins at head level, never thought of that.

jaffa1949 wrote:Not a great fan of bivalves, but you never know!
Uncle Jaffa is fairly pedestrian in eating habits!
Thank you

Seriously, Jaffa dude, you gotta try these! Get one order and 4 beers. Smartie sonne und du kann determine the consumption ratios.