Surfing Waves

I have a chance to surf a few places in North Perú over the next few weeks. I'm from Europe and only arrived in Perú only two weeks ago so I'm looking for some tips on spots to surf.

Some backround: Im 45, 90kg, 6'0". Coming back to surfing after a four year break, determined to master it this time lol. Already had ten days surf in Ecuador and Máncora. Favourite hire board of the moment is an 8' funboard that is super fat.

Getting frustrated at Máncora, too crowded. Im working on getting down the line as its a point break here. I got branded a beginner by a guy at the deep end and told to move over, down to the end of the line up, so I did what he suggested, but at the other extreme its all beginners and instructors who just jump in my wave and go straight. Any bigger wave that comes in, its always taken by somebody coming from deeper.

I struggle in anything over 4ft, coming off the back of the board. I took a class yesterday to refresh/reengineer my popup and stance and working on staying more flexed and crouching move to avoid this. Doing popups on land to get the muscle memory sealed in.

Looking for tips in this area, info on transport and hire shops too. I didnt bring a board and need to hire. Right now Im staying in Mancora but willing to move to cheap hostel or campsite if the spots are good. Any advice?

It would be awesome if there was some kind of shortcut to getting good at surfing. Just hang in there, feed off scraps and get in as much time on the wave as you can.

Are you planting your back foot first, then your front foot ? From what I'm reading, you coming off the back and being told to crouch more, seems your you might be doing the crawl pop up and then getting straightened out stiff.
Beginner-Intermediate, not good enough to be at the main peak, but more skills than to be around the newbies. Not wanted at either place. Oh well, better than sitting behind a desk.

waikikikichan wrote:Oh well, better than sitting behind a desk.

....made me laugh...

I don't know how it works there where you are and don't know how you are fixed financially, but here, surfers traveling with $$$ hire "guides"....guides pick them up from their hotels, take them to whatever break is firing at a given time, know where to position on that break and will take their charges straight out to the right spot to get in, and then will either push them in or if they are capable of taking the wave, will mildly to aggressively block or otherwise interfere to make sure that their guests have the best chance to get a wave......they will also call their guests off depending on who and where the other surfers paddling for the same wave are which would help a beginner/intermediate from getting sent down the wave after dropping in with their big fun board......they are also backup to smooth over any disputes....it is the only shortcut I know as they would help a struggler have the chance to score a higher amount of quality waves than if they were by themselves.

waikikikichan wrote:Are you planting your back foot first, then your front foot ? From what I'm reading, you coming off the back and being told to crouch more, seems your you might be doing the crawl pop up and then getting straightened out stiff.
Beginner-Intermediate, not good enough to be at the main peak, but more skills than to be around the newbies. Not wanted at either place. Oh well, better than sitting behind a desk.

Thanks for all the responses guys! To answer waikikikichan first: I'm doing the chicken wing popup at the moment, as thats what they taught me in my refresher class a few days back (when I took classes 10 and 20 years ago they taught me the jump pop up). Yesterday I only came off the back when the wave was steep, I caught it well, and the board shot ahead and under me because (I think) I straightened out to much and too early.

My instructor was telling me the other day to flex more *after* popup. So it seems to be a recurring theme.

At home I practised, focusing on keeping my hands on the deck until both feet landed (which I never used to do using the jump pop up), which forces me to stay lower.

I'm also hoping to get some local knowledge from people who know the area who can advise me on better spots. Its raining in Máncora this morning, hopefully that will deter some beginners!!!! lol

Anyway, its all cool. Sure beats the daily grind

zorba11 wrote:I'm also hoping to get some local knowledge from people who know the area who can advise me on better spots. Its raining in Máncora this morning, hopefully that will deter some beginners!!!! lol

Here I don't surf when or immediately after it is raining....I leave that for the newbies...here is some chat about staph infections that make their way into the body during this time of year via open cuts....

from Facebook
xxxx xxxxx
ya i know a few guys got staph infection from surfing dirty water recently.. so bad
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:30pm

xx xx
Winter damn thats no good, key is to get your immune system strong again, and that means lots of plant based foods. Check this article out too, hope it helps and may you get well soon https://www.staph-infection-resources.c ... ternative/
Effective Natural Remedies for MRSA and Staph
STAPH-INFECTION-RESOURCES.COM
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:41pm

xxxx xxxxx
since I have had it so many times, here`s what to do: Go to the pharmacy and buy hydrogen peroxide and an antibiotic called cefadroxil 500mg Sedrofen. It is a bit more expensive than other antibiotics, but it`s the one that works on the Bali strain of staph. Keep the boil clean and put warm compresses on it. After a few days it will burst and then you must clean it immediately with the hydrogen peroxide and an antibiotic cream. Keep it dressed. Clean it often. Done. The pain is insane, especially before it bursts. You can also go to BIMC and pay a few millions, which is what a friend of mine did to get it drained. I went to a local clinic one time, but they prescribed the wrong antibiotic. Never surf after rain, especially not in Serangan unless you wanna have all the viruses and bacteria known to mankind on and in your skin.
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:44pm

Big H wrote:

zorba11 wrote:I'm also hoping to get some local knowledge from people who know the area who can advise me on better spots. Its raining in Máncora this morning, hopefully that will deter some beginners!!!! lol

Here I don't surf when or immediately after it is raining....I leave that for the newbies...here is some chat about staph infections that make their way into the body during this time of year via open cuts....

from Facebook
xxxx xxxxx
ya i know a few guys got staph infection from surfing dirty water recently.. so bad
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:30pm

xx xx
Winter damn thats no good, key is to get your immune system strong again, and that means lots of plant based foods. Check this article out too, hope it helps and may you get well soon https://www.staph-infection-resources.c ... ternative/
Effective Natural Remedies for MRSA and Staph
STAPH-INFECTION-RESOURCES.COM
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:41pm

xxxx xxxxx
since I have had it so many times, here`s what to do: Go to the pharmacy and buy hydrogen peroxide and an antibiotic called cefadroxil 500mg Sedrofen. It is a bit more expensive than other antibiotics, but it`s the one that works on the Bali strain of staph. Keep the boil clean and put warm compresses on it. After a few days it will burst and then you must clean it immediately with the hydrogen peroxide and an antibiotic cream. Keep it dressed. Clean it often. Done. The pain is insane, especially before it bursts. You can also go to BIMC and pay a few millions, which is what a friend of mine did to get it drained. I went to a local clinic one time, but they prescribed the wrong antibiotic. Never surf after rain, especially not in Serangan unless you wanna have all the viruses and bacteria known to mankind on and in your skin.
Like · Reply · February 1 at 7:44pm

Good point about the rain, I'd forgotten about that (despite getting caught by it before lol). It's been raining heavily most nights here for two weeks so we should be OK #fingerscrossed