by peazz » Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:43 am
Im doing good mate, Paddled out in Bondi 4-5ft @ 13s ground swell... Didnt catch anything but my fear levels are greatly reduced in smaller stuff now..
I just need to sort out my paddling and get into more green waves for that angled take off, 95% of my rides are over in <5 seconds atm because i keep catching them just as they break!..
Experimenting with quads and thrusters atm, Quads allow my energy levels to stay higher for longer, I think its because of my short arms / tiring faster.. It seems with thrusters I just dont have it in me to get into waves..
According to JS the makers of my board, its set up for lift in the tail, after some research it seems riding it as a quad is the best move, My wave count improves greatly with quads, but as you know they like to take off straight!
Its just you and the heart beat of the earth, that moment when u take the drop nothing else matters your mind is completely free of all material thought processes. Your human.