jaffa1949 wrote:A report but not there yet first day surfing will be the 21st September afternoon.
Had a cold water dribble today at home beach so bad just proned in after one wave

Felt the love for the beginners .
Strangely after so many years of surfing my skin goes weird if I don't get in the salt at least once per week
I will update when there is something to update.
But for now I've become
衝浪爺爺 
Seems at this stage I've exchanged a cold water dribble day for a warm water two dribble days so far.
My wife and are having a double happy cultural revolution and taking in the sites/sights, there is a typhoon lurking off the east coast but it is not generating any swell YET!
If lacksurf continues then after going to look we will go to the mountain hot springs and have some fish eat the dead skin from our feet, then we will go to the national aquarium a look at fish that coul eat the feet from our soon to be dead skin
Today Saturday is a day of holidays before school goes back, the local beach is featuring no swell bigger than the 500 jet skis towing banana boats and waterski donuts can generate.
The entire cohort of city dwelling office workers are on the beach turning themselves into cooked lobsterpeople.
There is a surf school here with pink foam learny boards and the surfers are so petite they can stand on the board after the simulacrum of a wave has past underneath.
" I urge all you surfers to be good girls and boys as this would the exact version of surf hell you would descend to if you were not".
Seriously the people around the surfing scene are most welcoming the food is great and like all "good" surfers we wait for the swell,to show, so many potential surf spots. Bring on the swell.
