Surfing Waves

Hi all! I'm new to the forums, coming out of Central Florida, where the water and air is warm and waves are small Anyways, I'm looking to move to Australia in my future, and I'm starting the research now. I'm interested in finding a place where I can consistently get barreled, because that's really what interests me in surfing. I'm not very turned on by airs, and though I do like turns, I would like to find a barreling wave that I can find some shade in. This would be an easy feat, especially in OZ, except that I'm not too keen on reef or rock shelf breaks So I'm looking for some good towns with plenty of surf culture and some good beach breaks where I can get barreled over sand. Any help will be much appreciated!

nasolovesyou,

Before you hit OZ there is an immense coastline and most beaches on their day provide beach break barrrels.

Some questions that might help how competent are you in the surf? Your age and you say you want beach surf culture, what do you mean by that, there are cold water temperate surf towns warm water surf towns middle range surf towns big city surf towns and country soul surf areas, the overall standard of surfing is pretty good and each area generates a number of pro surfers to the world tour.
Give a little more criteria and we might be able to direct you further.
Do you need to work?
One thing you might like to overcome is your concern over reef and rock breaks as they are the major generators of barrels with consistency!
Post more we will try to help!

nasolovesyou wrote: a place where I can consistently get barreled

Can you already get barreled?

jaffa- Well, I know I wasn't very specific, but honestly, I don't much care what the town is like, I'm more after the wave. I guess the only real criteria I have is that I don't like cold water, so if there are towns with generally more warmness, I'd be much more attracted. Cold air for parts of the year is ok, but if there are towns with warm water and air year-round, I would rather that. I do have SOME criteria as far as the town, in that I would want to be able to work, but I'm willing to drive an hour or so to work if I can go out and check the waves every day, because I would be driving to the beach most days anyways, so that's one thing (a town right on the beach). I don't mind the country, I don't mind the city. However, I'd rather be surfing with some people, so somewhere where people do surf and I won't be all alone most of the time. Buuuut, and this is a big but, I don't like ridiculous crowds. I'd like most waves to be empty besides myself and my board. I find that it somewhat ruins the waves for me if I'm constantly dodging people every time I go for a wave, and every time I go out to surf. Maybe I will get over my fear of reefs and rocks, but I come from an area where there are only beach/sand breaks, and I started out skimboarding, so I'm used to falling on sand and not really too keen to falling on a reef and getting all cut up.

So here's the criteria in a nutshell:

-Inclined towards warm water and air, but SOME cold air welcome. I don't want to be getting numb in the line-up.
-Housing available within walking or biking distance to the local breaks, and work available within an hour or two.
-Not too crowded but not too remote

And that's about it. Other than that, I just want juicy barrels

Anyways, thanks a lot for your advice!

drowningbitbybit- We don't get barrels too often where I live, as the waves are small, and when it is barreling, it's not too consistent (maybe one or two barrels a session, if that), but I have the ability. Actually, what I'm really looking for in my quest is a place to learn how to get barreled better, how to hold a barrel, so that eventually I can take it back to my hometown and claim more waves. I love where I live, but I'd like to travel, live abroad, and take something from it, and if I can come home and be treated to more of my favorite type of wave-riding due to my "studies" abroad, I would be very grateful

The 'no cold water' requirement cuts out Victoria and Sth Australia (its not 'cold' like east coast USA, but its not warm by any means).

Qld doesnt have surf north of about Noosa. So you are pretty much looking along the east cost between the NSW/Vic border and Noosa; or over at Western Aust.

I reckon Margaret River in WA would satisfy you, at least surfing wise. No idea what the employment market is like and it is probably a bit crowded (all the miners will head there during their week off). But it will have all the waves you want.

Along the east coast I dont think there is anywhere that is consistently 'barrelling'. The Sydney northern beaches has good surf at times and there are areas around the Gold Coast (Qld). Byron Bay is famous for its surfing, but I have never been there - I think its more mellow than barrelling.

So I would say Margaret River, then somewhere between Sydney and Brisbane. Or you can just pick up temp/casual jobs and move around.

nasolovesyou, I can see a few problems on the horizon in how you are thinking about how your trip to Oz might unfold!

Firstly in order to work you would need a visa that permits you to work, that either needs a sponsorwho is going to give you a job or you have job criteria that is need in Australia that no home grown worker can do!
You can get a study visa if you have a place in University or tertiary Institute lined up and some of the study visa allow some casual or study related work.
The normal visa would be a tourist visa and absolutely no work is allowed and you have to demonstrate with all of them that you have the finances to support your stay for its entire length. Tourist visa being 3 months.
DTC is right about where you can go to get warm water, asome advice on that wherever there is a quality wave there is a very capable surf crew living nearby and they hit the water at every opportunity.
Australia is a huge country, similar in size to the continental United States,almost everyone lives on the coast and most of them in the major cities Sydney has at least 40 beaches and about 1 million surfers rents are ridiculously high but there is work, further north there is Newcastle again there is some work there, but as you go north there is increasing unemployment as you go north it get warmer and you start the get influence of cyclone swell, but there is no consistent barreling spot. The far north coast and Queensland to Noosa has warm water and the Gold Coast would make you feel like you are at home in Miami , lots of barreling breaks here which is why the area is also known as surfers' paradise, each barrel break has a crew like Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson on it + a cast of wannabees!.
If you can consistently get barrels here you can get them anywhere.
Western Australia in the Margaret River area has heaps of swell and epic surf, the water is colder and you will find out your comfort zone in power surf, you can eahd north to the mining areas if you have skills and also access the warm water desert breaks north of Perth, take your biggest set of Cahones with you!

Almost all barreling breaks in OZ have a backbone of rock and reef somewhere in their makeup as the rest of the coast is mobile sand banks like Florida.


Failing all that and you can only get a tourist visa, don't waste it if barrels are your mission, head straight to the most consistent barrel zone on Earth, Indonesia. Get over your reef fears, and really learn to surf barrels, you will also learn how Florida is really a surfing backwater that has its days but there are so many spots way better more often than poor old Florida. SORRY !

I guess I'm just gonna have to get over that fear of surfing rocks and reefs :/ You're right, jaffa. I know beachbreaks are way less consistent, but I was just thinking that if I could find a place that has stretches of beaches with just sand, and that gets solid swell consistently, I would be happy, as barrels will come sometimes depending how the beach is set up. If I can find an area like this I would be happy. However, the other thing I'm really interested in is learning a wave for a few years, just studying it, and learning it inside and out to the point where I know every section. I always thought that seemed like a lot of fun. So if you guys can point me in the direction of a long stretch of sandy beach, with a reef break close-by, that would be ideal

I'll look into Margaret River more, but any info you get, if you could send it my way it would be much appreciated. And same for Burleigh Heads, which has Coolangatta right there and those both seem like epic waves. Would Newcastle be a good town to live in? What's it like there?

I'd like to keep a steady job, so temp/casual jobs are out of the question.

What does DTC stand for? I don't mind surfing with other capable surfers, as long as I can work my way up to getting more waves a couple years into surfing there. I'm willing to wait and study the wave for a while before getting into the water anyways, and once I'm in, I don't expect to get every wave that I want. Are you saying that it's packed with surfers, though? Because that would break my attraction for sure.

The Gold Coast is sounding like a very prime option after you put it like that. Surfer's paradise with lots of barreling breaks... sick!

I guess I'll just have to get over my fear of reefs, although I'm not looking forward to that, but I guess in the chase for waves that's what it's mostly about. Unless we can find me the long stretches of sand with a few reef breaks nearby.

Thanks again for all the help!

nasolovesyou wrote:And same for Burleigh Heads, which has Coolangatta right there and those both seem like epic waves.

I don't mean to rain on your parade (or at least no more than Jaffa did), but Coolangatta has crowds that are:
a) very large
b) very "forthright" in their approach to whose wave it is.
c) astonishingly talented.

If you're not happy on reefs and rocks then you're probably not at the level to compete with these crowds. I know that I struggled a little when I was there a few weeks ago, and took the leftovers. And this was on a small day.

...And barrels over a beackbreak are at least as dangerous as over reefs
They're heavier, faster, less predictable and sand is really really hard when a lip drills you into it. Come to that, the lip is board-snappingly heavy too.


When I first came over from Europe, I was shocked by the power of the waves, and the talent of the surfers. I thought I could surf pretty well. Turns out I couldn't.
The same will likely be true for anyone coming from Florida.

Here are some beach break barrels in Australia. These are all in southern New South Wales.

If you want to surf these bring your A game, these are all uncrowded except by those who know.

drowningbitbybit- No harm done, I didn't take your post as raining on my parade. I'm just trying to find a good spot, and you're definitely helping, so thank you. I know Coolangatta gets super crowded, but I figured I would just be taking the leftovers until I get really good. I'm making surfing my life man. I will be one of those very talented guys in the water. I'm already pretty good, and I surf every swell that rolls through (only getting better). I didn't start with any board sports until I was 16, I'm 22 now, and I didn't start surfing consistently until I was 21, but I can already ride barrels and keep a good position on a wave. I'm not trying to be cocky at all, by the way. Just trying to tell you of my skills so that we're on the same page Anyways, you're right about Coolangatta not being the wave for me to live by, because I don't want crowds, but I just thought it would be a fun spot to be within driving distance to, because I'd like to try it out. It seems awesome. But now that I think about it, with Sydney and other huge cities right there, all those spots in between probably also get way too crowded for me, and I can always make a trip to there from somewhere else. The reason I'm not happy on reefs and rocks is simply because I've never had the opportunity to surf anything but sandbars, because that's all Florida has to offer. All the reefs are down south where there are literally no waves. As to beach breaks being more dangerous, I guess you're right about that. I hadn't put much thought into it because the waves are so much smaller where I live. I've seen one day that might match up slightly to a small day in Australia, but that was before I started surfing. This was at Sebastian Inlet, which I frequent, and which attracts pros from everywhere. The beach closest to me, and the most consistent spot in Florida is the New Smyrna Inlet, which has produced plenty of pros, as well as many great local surfers who are also very forthright, as you put it. I basically take the leftovers, because I'm not forthright yet, on all of the really good days, even though I'm better than most. The surfers produced at New Smyrna are great, and a large percentage of them are much better than me. Charly Baldwin, who is in the surfing hall of fame, and the Geiselman family, as well as many other pros come out of New Smyrna, and it's a tiny town. The amount of people traveling to this spot is ridiculous as well. This is all just to give you an idea of my spot. Usually, when it's good, I go to the second peak because of how much I hate crowds. It gets ridiculous right by the inlet. The only time I'm usually at the first peak is during the work week or if it's going to storm, when only the surf bums are out, and it's still pretty crowded! I'm looking to find a place where I can get good surf consistently without having to fight crowds, although I know how to. It's just not as fun for me.

jaffa- I'll look more into New South Wales. Those waves look beautiful.

Thank you both!

You've relented on the rocks proviso, if you give in and accept that where there is warm water + good surf, there's normally a crowd, the world will open up to you.... Toughen up and take the cold. There is never a crowd on this wave - ever. There are 2 or 3 just like it within a 20 minute drive, and the only people in the line-up are maybe 4 or 5 surfers, and a few mental boogers. Of course, its shallow and rocky, and usually only works in the winter, but:

Where are those waves garbarrage?? And how cold is the water there, temperature-wise?

The thing about cold water is... I wouldn't like surfing as much if it wasn't for being comfortable in the water. I don't like the idea of surfing just to be surfing, meaning I like the feeling of the board under my feet, and if the water is ridiculously cold I don't like the idea of not feeling my legs. I've never actually worn booties. Do they keep the whole body pretty warm or are they simply to keep out disease like pneumonia? I wouldn't mind getting all suited up now that I think about it. I've just never thought about it. I was raised my whole life in a warm climate, and have never even seen snow, much less lived in a place capable of snow.

As far as rocks... my job wouldn't be surfing. It would simply be my main hobby. I'll be in the water anytime there's swell, as long as I'm not on tour, but my job is going to be in the music industry. I'm enrolling in a music school soon, and unless I make a ton of money right away, which is very hard to do and not really in my hands, I'll be making enough for my bills and a few extras, but having to be constantly playing music. I wouldn't want to become injured and unable to perform. Specifically, I wouldn't want a lifetime injury like a missing arm or something from falling on shallow rocks and getting it twisted backwards or something. I guess I could just get really good before attempting rock/reef breaks, but I just think sand is so sweet However, as said in my last post, it is true that sand is almost just as hard as rock when packed under water, and the wave would be less predictable, and Australian waves are much larger than Floridian waves, so it's a whole different ballgame.

I'm taking a lot from this thread, so I appreciate all the input.

Updates:

-I will now consider colder water, as long as it's surfable year-round.

-I will now consider reef and rock breaks equally to if not more than sand breaks.

That was a quick turn of the mental tides!

Your fellow Floridian Mr. KS has a favourite barrel right hander in Sydney where I often surfed it's called Little Avalon it is a recommended place for getting over reef fears and knowing you place in the pecking order,. KS really likes it and if you can handle it here you can handle other reef barrels. Most Australian barrel riders still have both arms working so their music abilites are not threatened. Australia has a very good music scene in all genres, so once again you will need to bring your A game in music.
I like it, if your abilities match your ambitions then you will succeed

If you're planning on working in the music industry, you may have trouble getting a work-visa and finding employment in australia. There are quite a lot of very talented musicians, who have been signed by record labels, working in cafes serving coffee here. I know a few personally. Maybe as a roadie you could pull some work immediately, but not easy to earn much money.

Anyway, aside from that, Newcastle has a good-ish music scene, with a few live venues around the place. Surf wise, slightly less beginner rich crowds (i.e. the beginners are all making sydney crowded) a reasonable amount of breaks (both reef and sand) with some great spots within 2hrs by car. Plus, you can get to sydney in 2hrs by car or train if need be.

I haven't got any photos of Newcastle, but here are some from south Sydney

A typical day at Maroubra (Sydney's south)


Cronulla (Sydney south)


Cronulla again.

Here's a picture of the local longboard crew pulling in at Newcastle

jaffa1949 wrote:Here's a picture of the local longboard crew pulling in at Newcastle

images-1.jpg

Bahaha I think I've got a photo of the Pasha Bulka after it crashed into the beach as well. Sure is unfair how early those 245,000ton longboarders up there can catch the waves.

Oh, and I'd think twice about perth/WA.

http://www.news.com.au/national/surfer-taken-by-shark-north-of-perth/story-fndo4e3y-1226425990874

Poor bloke.

That wave is in Ireland, Near Doolin, Co. Clare. If you are a performance level musician, and can carry a gig, you'll get plenty of paying gigs there. Also, you are never more than a 2 hour drive to the Ocean here, so no matter where you are playing, you can make it in time for a surf. We're also pretty lax Visa-wise. You get used to cold water. It's not comfortable, getting in and getting out, and your second surf of a day, getting in to a cold wet, wetsuit can be pretty brutal, but adrenaline and an empty line-up make it more than bearable. Also, we have no sharks, which is actually pretty weird, because its ideal stomping ground for most species.

Consistency will be an issue, it's often on-shore here, and regularly too big, but there's nearly always somewhere protected if you know where to look. Tides are a real issue here, and getting a place firing can mean very early starts. to catch the 2 or 3 hour window when they are at their best. A night-time job makes scoring, much easier though.

This film is a pretty good depiction of surfing in Ireland, whether you're a normal surfer or a big-wave mentalist:

http://www.relentlessenergy.com/film/powers-of-three.html

Long and deep barrels are really what I'm going for, Indo-style. I'm not really into all the gnarly stuff haha so although that video of Ireland made me want to live there just on the fact of how extremely beautiful it is, my plan is to live a bike ride away from a consistent spot, with long and deep barrel sections, ideally with more than one section per wave. I would just move to Indonesia, but I want to live somewhere that I can communicate with the locals and make some good friends who I can talk to. I'd like to be part of a nice crew of surfers, but those guys are way too gnarly for me! Also, I wouldn't want to have to drive around everywhere. If there's anywhere else in Ireland that has the waves I've described, I'd be very attracted, because the cold water is seeming more fun to me now that I've thought on it a bit, empty line-ups sounds perfect, and no sharks are a big plus. garbarrage, are you saying that the entire Irish coast is within a two hour drive? Because if so, I'm sure I could find my perfect spot to live and I'd be down with driving around as long as I have a good wave to go out and check on every day.

The reason I started this thread with Australia is because I've always thought that since there's so much coastline, there would be a much greater chance of finding what I'm looking for, feel me? But now that I've gotten over needing warm water and a sand break, I'm sure it's opened the door to a much bigger world.

Thank you for your vote of confidence jaffa! And that longboarder comment and photo made me crack up! I know it takes a lot to make it in the music scene, but my plan is to make as much money in as many fields as possible before buying a house somewhere in the world so that I don't have to work, and I can simply play in bands for my love of music, and I can surf for my love of wave riding. I don't need a big fancy style of living to be happy... just the ability to live my hobbies. Maybe I'll rent by Little Avalon for a few years to get used to all the changes before buying up a small place by a more suitable wave. Although I'd prefer being somewhere that I don't have to worry about a pekking order. Just getting used to a reef sounds good, though I'm sure with a few experienced friends I can learn from, I'll get used to the new ocean style just fine.

Car racing is another thing I would like to do, but that's not as hard to pursue as most would think. All you need is a car and a mechanic friend But there's another criteria. Although I don't NEED a track in my immediate surroundings, as I could travel for racing seeing as the tracks will always be there and are not effected by nature, it would be nice to have one within a day's drive so I don't have to be away from the ocean for too long.

Maybe we only live once, so I figure I might as well get the most out of this life I have! And I don't think anyone can ever be too ambitious if they think through their goals, as I have. All of this is obtainable if I put the time and effort into obtaining it.

Anyways, back to business!

Cronulla looks epic, and it's a right-hander. I ride with a regular stance so I'd much rather a right-hand wave than a lefty. I would love a backhand barrel close by, but I'm looking for a wave I can really get deep in, and although I'm decent and getting better, I'm no pro, and I want to get as deep as possible. I'm sure Sydney gets pretty crowded, which I'm not too keen on, but the scene wave-wise that Jimi explained sounds perfect: waves all over, all types, and a city within driving distance, but not too close to make the waves ridiculously crowded.

This thread is exceeding my expectations. Thank you for your hospitality!