Best BARREL material waves with sandy bottom

[wat4zz]

found this:
https://www.outsideonline.com/2053251/i ... -wave-pros
they want to find market for inflatable vests not only on giant waves.

[jaffa1949]

The French government tried to make personal flotation vest compulsory.
Some antis for that , trying to duck dive or turtle roll when you are very floaty.
There are times when you wipe out that requires you to be able to penetrate the wave’s face, flotation means an over the falls trip.

There are shark repellent Gadgets on your leash, shark deterring patterns to put on the bottom of your board, same patterns on wetsuits.

There are all sorts of fancy fin systems and deck grips and pads all promise marvels but not one can enable you to go beyond being a beginner until you get to the next stage yourself.

All round the world we see newbies swagger proudly down the beach to the surf, new shiny latest fashion boards of the current brand,brand name wetsuits etc, we watch them get smashed to shore by the smallest waves.
When you actually go surfing what I have been saying will make sense

[waikikikichan]

Why don't you just rent Kelly's wave pool for a day ? ( not really a sand bottom though )

Or since you want a variety of waves in one place....... then Surf Lake's 5 waves

[wat4zz]

yeah but texas im not so interested in (long flight, just for the pool)
wow 5 lakes looks incredible, is expected to open in the second half of 2020, maybe when i got the money, want to go to australia some day anyway.

[waikikikichan]

yes i want to practice barrell riding on sandy bottom (not right now, but in the future) to avoid injuries.
if you know really save ( safe?) and also consistent places (maybe in low swell season but consistent)

You do realize you can be hurt even if it's a sandy bottom ( spinal injury / broken neck ) If you want the ultimate thrill, you got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. You maybe be watching the pro's in contest or Jamie O'brien getting tube with his GoPro, and think it's easy. It's not. If you want safe, then you've picked the wrong sport. You are not giving the wave the RESPECT it's due. And if you want to get barreled, then you got to pay your dues.

Of the thousands of members on this surf forum, I would wager there is not more than a handful that have been fully in the barrel totally tubed dry. Any one want to raise their hand to say they did ? I for one have not.

[jaffa1949]

Wat4zz i got a genuine barrel inside when I was about 20 in 1969 at Pipeline in Hawaii and it was nowhere near as deep as they get now.
Why?
Equipment was limited and only the really skilled could make it , I did not disappear behind the curtain but i could see wave on both sides of me in front of the nose of the board, it counted for me, but it doesn't anywhere else because there are no photgraphs.

Most surfers can understand power in wave height but understanding the extra amount of power to throw that height out as a barrel.
If a decent barrel is being thrown then it is serious!

Here is one photo I took of a reasonable small barrel, 10 short boards were broken this day.

This is a serious barrel shared by strong offshore winds.

The only way I get a look inside a not quite barrel these day is to do a Head Dip and wash my head as I poke it through the lip.

This is bigger but doesn't have the power to throw the lip enough to barrel.

[jaffa1949]

Oh and one longboard too!

[wat4zz]

nice thanks for the pictures.

how dangerous in surfing compared to other sports?

[wat4zz]

skating you fall very often.
skiing and snowboarding, you get smashed often too.
how often people hit the ground in surfing?
could one say that a sport like basketball is less dangerous than surfing?

[jaffa1949]

Broken Nose X 3, torn groin, crushed nuts, smashed helmet on head, dislocated shoulder, torn knee meniscus, ruptured ear drum concussion with that.
Torn plantar ligament, broken toes, killed a Marriage, lost a number of jobs, caused me to repeat High School for Matura to University,
Took longer to get my two degrees, damaged my wallet with the number of surfboards my addiction required.
But all told rewarded by a well paid profession that allowed me to surf, a wife that enjoyed my surfing.
Islands in the Pacific Ocean surfed 10 at least, east Coast of Australia, lots and lots of Indonesia , now surfing the Atlantic based from Austria and the rivers in Austria..
Dangerous not at all, Getting to the beach is more dangerous than any beginner wave.

[wat4zz]

hefty stuff, how did your nose break and how got the eardrum ruptured?

so you surfed the pacific ocean before the atlatic? in holidays or you lived there?

[IanCaio]

yes i want to practice barrell riding on sandy bottom (not right now, but in the future) to avoid injuries.
if you know really save ( safe?) and also consistent places (maybe in low swell season but consistent)

You do realize you can be hurt even if it's a sandy bottom ( spinal injury / broken neck ) If you want the ultimate thrill, you got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. You maybe be watching the pro's in contest or Jamie O'brien getting tube with his GoPro, and think it's easy. It's not. If you want safe, then you've picked the wrong sport. You are not giving the wave the RESPECT it's due. And if you want to get barreled, then you got to pay your dues.

Of the thousands of members on this surf forum, I would wager there is not more than a handful that have been fully in the barrel totally tubed dry. Any one want to raise their hand to say they did ? I for one have not.

Well said!

I'm another one that can't raise my hand for the dry tube yet. Few ones I had so far, the lip was at least touching my back. Maybe some of the ones that closed out on me were a little bit wider, but definitely still very far away from the ones JOB surfs and probably not totally dry if I made out

Wat4zz i got a genuine barrel inside when I was about 20 in 1969 at Pipeline in Hawaii and it was nowhere near as deep as they get now.

My respect Jaffa! Surfing pipe at 69, was probably even crazier than today. I imagine no leashes, no lifeguards, very big boards and a small crowd?

Most surfers can understand power in wave height but understanding the extra amount of power to throw that height out as a barrel.
If a decent barrel is being thrown then it is serious!

Exactly, a 5ft day might feel much easier than a 3ft depending on how hollow the later one is.

Just a small example of how size doesn't always translate how much power a wave has:

[waikikikichan]

how often people hit the ground in surfing?
could one say that a sport like basketball is less dangerous than surfing?

Yes you do have to worry about hitting the reef ( or sand bottom ), but you need to be more concerned about the raw power of the wave itself. AND even worse, others who don't know how to surf and put themselves in situations they shouldn't be in.

[wat4zz]

lol guy of second video at -0:46 looks like spit out ^^

[wat4zz]

lol found thsi video from the same creator like yours:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytWzEhq ... mb_rel_end

look guy at 2:52, pretty amazing water vehicle^^

[wat4zz]

read that "...the easiest and safest way to wipe out is by landing on your butt and extending your arms out so they slap the surface of the water. This is called a shallow fall which will decrease your chances of hitting the bottom...."

so when i begin training is it advisable that i always try to land on my butt, no matter how smalle the waves, so that this behaviour gets somehow ingrained?

what do surfers do in a wipeout? read that they extend their arms out so that the head cant get hit on a reef.

what if you got cought in a barrelling lip that transports you forward?
always trying to push your front-body-side back to the coming waveface?

is it possible to for example push your elbows higher to the forehead, to protect from hitting the head on the sides,
bending the head forwards and crunching the abs, to protect from hitting the head on the back,
pushing the hands forwards, one in front of the face
(with the hand covering the left cheek of the face and the elbow covering the right cheek)
and one hand over the head (with the hand facing upwards, covering the right top of the head and the elbow covering the left top of the head)??

[jaffa1949]

Once you get past the barely stand up,being pushed straight in by white water stage, and ride across the wave, you will learn that wipeouts come in all sizes shapes and colours as does your body in responding to them.
Some you have a chance to,react others not at all. Most times the most injured thing is your ego.

Just so you know, you could read all this forum’s posts and every book and watch every video.
They all mean nothing until you add activated water. .
Go get wet!

[wat4zz]

okay of course oftentimes you can't prepare for wipeouts

[BoMan]

Broken Nose X 3, torn groin, crushed nuts, smashed helmet on head, dislocated shoulder, torn knee meniscus, ruptured ear drum concussion with that.Torn plantar ligament, broken toes, killed a Marriage, lost a number of jobs, caused me to repeat High School for Matura to University,

My hero.

[jaffa1949]

Broken Nose X 3, torn groin, crushed nuts, smashed helmet on head, dislocated shoulder, torn knee meniscus, ruptured ear drum concussion with that.Torn plantar ligament, broken toes, killed a Marriage, lost a number of jobs, caused me to repeat High School for Matura to University,

My hero.

Oh and is it an addiction , my mother thought I would grow out of it!