by oicu8bacilli » Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:28 pm
Last Tuesday (21st) was a north swell with a N wind and Frisco had super clean glassy shoulder to head high barrels!!! Wednesday held pretty clean sets at Frisco ( I have a 4x4 so private waves are easy to find while the kids have an OBX school day). I was on Ocracoke early Wed a.m. and it was incredibly glassy barrels as far as the eye could see with NOBODY surfing. The conditions turned to mushy wind driven swells closing out…still offshore at Frisco getting worse each day this week. Yesterday, every spot was blown wind driven mush monsters. The Coast Guard station, lighthouse, Frisco..All were trashed. There were some 2x overheaders to be had for big drops and short rides, but conditions were horrible. I stayed dry yesterday and watched guys spend ½ hour in the impact zone trying to get out. They were drifting S faster than they progressed out.
Bad weather is approaching and the rip was already pretty bad. I left this morning in favor of home while the weather sucks. Va beach looked decent on the way home for playful mushy 2-3 footers. Dunno if they packed any punch, maybe I’ll hit it in the morning if the weather holds and Jeanne stays south or heads east. If it heads east then north…we are in for a treat!