by dtc » Thu Feb 13, 2014 10:59 pm
Well, if you have a surfboard attached to you (leg rope), and its in good condition, the chances of you drowning are very remote.
That said, its a basic safety 'rule' of surfing that you should be able to swim from where you are surfing into shore without your board. If you can't then you need to hit the pool.
My personal rule of thumb is that you have to be able to do - without stopping or having a breather at the end of a lap - flat water (pool swimming) at least 10 times as far as you will need to swim in the ocean. So if you are surfing 60m off shore, a standard beachie, then you need to be able to swim 600m without stopping at a MINIMUM. If you can't, then dont go surfing. Remember in a pool you dont have rips, waves and the biggie - you dont start off tired having paddled for an hour before you lose your board. You arent panicking and so forth
This is my personal rule, it has no scientific foundation. And 600m isnt really enough for real safety or if there is big surf, but I think its enough for basic safety.
Once you know you can make it back to shore even without your board, then you should feel more confident
And - its not unusual to feel unconfident. Its a new sport, a new place, its strange. The only way around it is to surf and get used to it. I recommend surfing in the one place for a few months, getting used to how it works and where the waves come from and all the rest of it; you will get comfortable and then you can expand your horizons.
Obviously learn board safety, how to duck dive/turtle roll etc, so your board is under control at all times.
If you are worried about the water while having a big lump of a board around, go and do some bodyboarding for a while (with fins). You will learn about waves etc but without the stress of the the board smacking you in the face.
Finally - sit on your board or paddle on your board rather than walk out to head high! Time spent on the board should give you some confidence.
So: think about bodyboarding for a while; swim more and know that confidence comes from experience.