Choosing my wave

[Annie]

Hi, I hope someone can give me a couple of tips.

I'm a beginner and have recently been on a couple of surf trips.

I am ok with my position, getting up (allbeit still using "Tiger Position"), accelleration etc. My big obstacle seems to be choosing the right wave. Maybe I start paddling way too soon or I'm too far out when chosing my wave as a majority of the time it passes me as a swell.

I am beginning to understand the sets and sit on my board watching and waiting and then.......paddle paddle paddle more paddle ...missed wave .

I seem to do ok when I catch the wave on the break but my surfing instructor insisted that I need to be out further and getting up just before the break. How can I time it right????

[Sillysausage]

what board you riding? basically you want to be as far in/out (what ever way you wanna look at it) so you can catch the wave comfortably and be up and riding before you nailed or you can catch the wave at all. on a longboard or minimal you'll want to be slightly further out than the shortboarders (in most cases) as they have more volume meaning they catch the wave earlier and therefore you'll be able to pop up easier etc.

its quite hard to explain, better to watch what other people do and if thats what you're doing then maybe its just the way you're paddling

[Annie]

Thanks for that. I'm using a minimal so my surfing instructor was right.... go out further. My eyes will be peeled on the experienced guys from now on, WATCH, LEARN, PRACTICE, PERFECT! I get it.

[drowningbitbybit]

Hey Annie,

This is a tricky one as there are just so many variables its hard to give advice from the safety of internet forum (it can be done in the water, just).

As has already been said, you need to be in the right spot (a little further out than the shortboards if you're on a mini-mal) and timing is everything. Sit out back and dont even try to get a wave - watch what the other surfers are doing, or just watch how the waves form.

The key in picking your wave is anticipation - dont pick the wave thats breaking, pick the wave that's going to break.

Also, be aware that how a wave breaks is different from one spot to another - and I dont even mean different breaks or on different days - simply moving a few metres onto or off a peak can make all the difference.

So add anticipation, position and timing to your mantra and you've got it

It takes a long time though. I moved to Oz from the UK two years ago and I still sometimes find it difficult to judge what the waves are going to do because they behave differently here compared to back home. Stick at it.

[Ged]

By far the most important thing is paddling. People who surf alot forget that they have built up rediculous lower back muscles. Everytime you go out paddle off to some landmark and back, either at the begining of a session or the end. Soon you will be comfortable covering fairly large distances. When you are strong at paddling catching waves is fairly easy, the trick is to paddle to exactly the right spot at the right time, but you have to get there. Obviously some skill at reading waves has to be developed but as your paddling develops so will this. Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle. I'm sure thats the best advice.

[Annie]

Thanks guys, good advice. I'm taking all the information on board and will definately do the paddle run as suggested...What a great idea! Can't wait to get back in the water and PRACTICE more.(Determination is the key right?) I am working on my upper body strength, especially shoulders to help with my paddling. Got another trip booked in couple of weeks to San Sebastian for a month so will have ample opportunity to work on this.

Drowningbitbybit: How cool, you've moved to OZ, I am planning the same, currently in London. Got a meeting tomorrow re my visa application.So tell me.....Best decision you ever made?

Annie

[drowningbitbybit]

<----- view from my living room window.

Drowningbitbybit: How cool, you've moved to OZ, I am planning the same, currently in London. Got a meeting tomorrow re my visa application.So tell me.....Best decision you ever made?

As I check my emails n' stuff while watching the sun come up over the ocean, I'm thinking 'yeah, turned out alright'

[Annie]

View from my living room window is very green, I believe the view comes under the heading of a wheelie bin Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know how I get on when I get back into the water.

[thomas15]

By far the most important thing is paddling. People who surf alot forget that they have built up ridiculous lower back muscles. Every time you go out paddle off to some landmark and back, either at the beginning of a session or the end

[Annie]

By far the most important thing is paddling. People who surf alot forget that they have built up ridiculous lower back muscles. Every time you go out paddle off to some landmark and back, either at the beginning of a session or the end

That sure is my strategy from here on in! I will be paddling until I get this right. D'ya think I'll notice an improvement after a couple of sessions? To tell ya the truth, I find the paddling is the hardest part.