Surfing Waves

Hey! Looking for a little help! Surfed last week in Jaco. Lessons were great and picked it up fast on a big foam board. Got to the bigger waves by end of first day and was able to stand up. Spent the next two days surfing on my own. I rented a 7’6” with one fin. I kept it simple and caught a ton of waves in the whitewash. Felt comfortable consistently getting up. When I paddled out I had a hard time. Definitely from from my inability to read waves, but I’ll get there.
I am looking to buy a first board. I’m in south Florida. I’m 5’6” 145, 50 yo and active and athletic. Any board recommendations? 7’6” felt like a lot but not sure? Was looking at Walden Mega Mega Magic. I know having volume is major for me being able to develop. So maybe a 7’-7’2” but more volume? Appreciate any guidance.

NewGurt wrote: 7’6” felt like a lot but not sure?

Could you go more into detail. 7'6" felt like a lot because of what reason(s)

Too hard to paddle ?
Too hard to turn around from facing the horizon to then facing the beach ?
Too hard to turn while on the wave ?
Too hard to carry ?

Sorry. Yeah was just a lot Just to carry around. Felt like a really big board. Overall, I was able to turn, paddle and get up. I was a snowboarder and the curve was pretty fast. So just want to find the size I can start and grow into. So maybe 7’6” is the size for a beginning board. At my size will I still be able to start maneuvering more or will this limit me? I know getting good info now will make it more fun and allow me to get better. Just want to spend the money on the right thing. Thanks for responding to me.

I also love big mountain and just making turns. So I want to do the same on the water. So, thinking a board that will get me there, then allow me to maneuver more. 7’6” may be perfect. Thoughts on the Walden board? Or anything you’d recommend. I’m not worried about names. Want to be successful and have fun out there.

NewGurt wrote: I know getting good info now will make it more fun and allow me to get better.

NewGurt wrote: I know having volume is major for me being able to develop.

How do you know that you "know" ? On what website or who ( like a surf instructor or a friend ? ) explained to you that Volume is important for a beginner ?
Getting the wrong information will make your learning curve longer and more difficult. Ask 10 different surfers their opinion on your 7'6" question and it'll probably be 60% for and 40% against. I am in that 40% against.

My advice is to "forget about Volume". Learn the basics on a board 3 feet over your head. Then after you got the basics down and start to do cutbacks backside, then move down to a board 2 feet over your head. A 7'6" is only 2 feet over your head. I think that is too short at this stage in your learning curve.

Say you do get the Walden Mega Magic 7'2". ( which is a great board for a older heavier experience shortboarder or a big volume more maneuverable board for a longboarder wanted to go shorter, but not for beginners )

Yes it has a lot of "volume " at 65 liters. But it's due to its fuller rail at 3 1/2 inches. Can you control and engage that much rail ? As a snowboarder, you understand how important it is to be on rail.

By the way, it's snowing a lot up north in Hokkaido, Japan and I want to try snowboarding. Since I already know how to surf, I know it should be okay to Black Diamond run. What do you think ?

Thanks for the input. Good point. It’s why I asked.

BTW, I am 5'3" 125 lbs. and my go to board is 8'0" with 86 liters. It may suck getting the board to the waters edge ( and off the car ), but right now catching a lot of waves will make you better. Don't go too short too early. But yeah, I know from all the snowboarders I've taught lessons to, they all are hesitant to ride "those huge gigantic boards" and would rather try something shorter. But remember, for snowboarding, you don't need to "catch' the mountain. For surfing, you do need to catch the wave.

You think I'll have fun on the black diamond my first time out snowboarding, it just frozen waves when you think about it.

No, you’d be miserable if you started on a black. I also had a great time and caught waves on the big foamy learner board. So I guess that answers my own question. Any brand recommendations for a first boards considering cost and quality all things considered? I do appreciate the insight.

Don't rack your brain about your first board purchase. It won't be your last and it won't be suitable for your level say 3 seasons from now. If you totally believe the race to the shortest mindset and get too short of a board, fine. Learn from your mistakes ( if you don't drown ) and get another board, but keep that shorter board for later.

For me, in a similar situation, I'd get a $120 Costco Gerry Lopez 8 footer and bash that thing around. Not having to worry about hurting others ( or myself ) when I make a wrong decision and go over the falls. Then after a season, sell it for $50 to some other newbie. ( or keep it to teach a friend how to surf on it )

Thanks. Sounds smart! Ok so 3 feet was 8’6” but a soft starter at 8’ will do it. Price is right to start for sure. On it. Happy New Year!