Surfing Waves

Hi all.

First, my basic stats:
Age and gender: 26, female
Surf experience: basically none of my own
Height: 5ft 2in or 157.48 cm (so says google)
Weight: Around 134 lbs or 60.78 kg
Fitness: low.
Wave Types: Um, whatever is in Avalon/Stone Harbor NJ, probably since that's where the fam vacations most often.

Additional Big Info:
I have hydrocephalus, and with that comes brain surgeries, which explains fitness. The biggest way this impacts me surf wise is my balance is crud. Like, two feet on solid ground still randomly bumping into walls crud. Also, probably with my pop-up, since I have some upper arm strength but it's not great considering all the surgeries and medical mess I've been through kinda make that harder... But I'm willing to try of course. Surviving out of spite and all that. Stick it to the man.

I've done research and I know it'd probably be best to start with a foam board and around ~2ft taller than I am, which leads me https://www.surfdome.us/Ocean-and-Earth-MR-Ezi-Rider-Twin-Fin-Surfboard/sd50220502.htm?colour=Violet&fbclid=IwAR0dGw5CUaRIzkGAobJti5umQSgJ1ChzSXOZLCBjfxzDc8spPlkaIqD82_U here...

Am I on the right track? Do any of y'all know about accessible surfing? It's a bit difficult bc programs are either out of state or for groups I'm not a part of (usually children or veterans or specific disability groups). I don't need much, I don't think, just mostly the right equipment (board) and possibly something to make popping up easier, but I've been looking for that and found a few things too. My dad tried to put me on his longboard when I was younger and that went okay until I got bonked in the head with it, so I'd rather not repeat that instance again.

Thanks for any help you can provide!
- Mandy

Learn on a board 3 feet over your head. After you got the paddle fitness/technique down and begin to ride along the face ( Trim ) and start to do simple turns, THEN go to a board 2 feet over your head. That said, you have other factors that might change other dimensions.

That O&E EZ MR fish is too short, too curved, too maneuverable for you.
( plus I never recommend swallow tails for beginners, not only for the performance sake but because of damage done to the tips )

How about getting a Costco Gerry Lopez 8 foot softboard ? See how that goes for a few seasons, then get the O&E after.

Also, how about going the body board route ? Surfing is about riding waves. You can have a great time catching and riding waves, albeit on your belly. Especially if your East coast waves are dumping beach breaks.

Hi and welcome Mandy, cheers for your plans, I will be pulling a fair bit of information together for you that may help you get surfing.

There are some really good options daily available the body board is one that fit immediately unless you really want to stand up, there are also soft boards that would’ve suitable to use as kneeboards, soft as you would appreciate means not so hard in being banged!
With Hydrocephalus head knocks are a major issue, however there are suitable helmets both hard and soft……. I wear a Gath!
I would consider too that there may be lots more surfing help and information from Adaptive surfing groups, BTW they are not all wounded Veterans and other disabled people they usually cover a whole spectrum with coaches and supporters . Check them out have the knowledge to have a clear choice.

Personally I would love you to be here as a mentor for others as you begin your surfing adventure and journey,
Be back after i dig a bit for you
Cheers Jaffa

Wow there are a lot more helmet options since i last looked, here is a review site for helmets both soft and hard.
projectsurfhelmets.com This should give you some options especially in regard to fit and weight!
Taking in water doesn‘t help!
Oliaaia helmet looks a good possibility.

Do you want to surf standing? I can match you up there but consider suitability thoroughly

Hi! Thank you for your help!
Just so you know @Jaffa it's projectsurfhelmet.com without the S. I'm not sure what "I can match you up there but consider suitability thoroughly" means? but eventually I'd like to try surf standing if/when my balance improves. For the time being I think I'd prefer to start prone, supine, or sitting on a board (so I can steer/lean into turns better) that I could eventually move to standing on, as that seems like the wisest option cost-wise at least to me. I'm open to other suggestions though!

My worry with getting a kneeboard first is buying something that is only good for one purpose whereas the foam board is built for multiple, and you can ride however you want. Additionally @waikikichan I've been bodyboarding and would like to progress to something faster that'd be multi-purpose. I remember that rush of my dad pushing me into a wave and there's nothing like it elsewhere.

Mandyqueue wrote: I've been bodyboarding and would like to progress to something FASTER that'd be multi-purpose. I remember that rush of my dad pushing me into a wave and there's nothing like it elsewhere.

If you want fast, here is something that's faster than some surfboards.

I bodyboarded for several years before I surfed and my bodyboards were as fast as surfboards with the additional advantage of being able to ride higher on a steep tubing wave than a surfer can standing up. However the surfers had an advantage over me on some waves because they could do projection turns which generate speed

Hi Mandy, lots of good advice coming to you,
Let‘s talk about kneeboards, a little historical perspective, prone boards, paipo and belly boards were before kneeboards and have an honoured place is surf history, the kneeboard showed new manoeuvrability to the longboarders of the day, almost every wave is overhead without the failing ground of many would be surfers THE POP UP! My son rides a kneeboard does pretty well in Portugal, a couple of paddling pluses you can both arm and paddle with fins (some possibility of leg cramps until you get leg fitness) Easier to duck dive. Lower head space on wave at impact level of unaware surfers so a helmet is safety necessity red Gath on my son!
Easy storage and transport ( applies to all bodyboard types)
People are using soft beater boards for knee boards in Back ball or hard surf craft bans areas.
A thought to consider, an easier learning curve to a fair basic ability level, less likelihood of benign position vertigo in a full transition to standing (don‘t know the level you are effect in this)
Whatever the way you go keep prompting the crew here to look at all possible options for the one that easily give the most fun will be it!
I had a look at NJ there are quite a lot of adaptive surfing groups, although they may not suit you they may well know people who make or have access to suitable boards for you, a broader spectrum of choice

jaffa1949 wrote:Hi Mandy, lots of good advice coming to you,
Let‘s talk about kneeboards, a little historical perspective, prone boards, paipo and belly boards were before kneeboards and have an honoured place is surf history, the kneeboard showed new manoeuvrability to the longboarders of the day, almost every wave is overhead without the failing ground of many would be surfers THE POP UP! My son rides a kneeboard

DF48D24C-D1D7-4174-AB7C-2324D615C121.jpeg

does pretty well in Portugal, a couple of paddling pluses you can both arm and paddle with fins (some possibility of leg cramps until you get leg fitness) Easier to duck dive. Lower head space on wave at impact level of unaware surfers so a helmet is safety necessity red Gath on my son!
Easy storage and transport ( applies to all bodyboard types)
People are using soft beater boards for knee boards in Back ball or hard surf craft bans areas.
A thought to consider, an easier learning curve to a fair basic ability level, less likelihood of benign position vertigo in a full transition to standing (don‘t know the level you are effect in this)
Whatever the way you go keep prompting the crew here to look at all possible options for the one that easily give the most fun will be it!
I had a look at NJ there are quite a lot of adaptive surfing groups, although they may not suit you they may well know people who make or have access to suitable boards for you, a broader spectrum of choice

I do need to look at those, and the other boards someone said above... Unfortunately my knees are not the best (I know, my body's a mess, sadly), and due to the other things in my body that make up this system of confusion, I also have lyme disease and lupus, which primarily impacts my legs and makes kneeling really difficult. I don't know how it'll go till I try it out though, so I'm willing to give it a go if they're fairly inexpensive. I don't think I have positional vertigo thankfully, my shunt has an anti-siphon device to stop cerebro-spinal fluid from rushing down when I go from lying to standing. Yay science, haha! (that wasn't available when I was a kid) I will also pop a look at adaptive groups, on FB? Or here on the forum?

Wow you have quite a spectrum of things to deal with, but you are not lacking in courage!!! respect for that!
If the kneeboard not up for it there will other options, but knowing that you have an anti siphon in place is great.
Here is a list of adaptive surf organisations in the US

I don‘t quite have my finger on the pulse in the US being an Aussie in Austria but you will probably get some ongoing links from these groups.

Are you prepared to do some physical therapy and swim training that will work to build surf fitness as your body and surf plan require?
How surf safety self sufficient are you now?
Hoping all this is encouraging you!!!