Surfing Waves

Hey fellow surfers,

I have been riding Bruce Jones 5'10" x 21 1/8 x 2 9/16 Retro Fish in Epoxy that I scored from OfferUp a few months ago. The board feels light and maneuverable. But folks always say that board looks like a big (too much volume) fish for me. I tried to attach an mp4 file of me surfing a small wave but the forum doesn't allow Mp4 upload. I have been surfing for a few years. I am 5'10" 145lbs. Thanks!!

So why do you think they say " the board looks too big " for you ? Are your turns to slow ( can't whip the nose around fast enough ) ? Are you lagging on the face and can't push it down into the wave to pump ?

See if you can upload the video to YouTube, then up load it here.

Btw, I'm 5'3" 125lbs and was surfing my 6'4" NSP molded epoxy fish the other day.

Hey Waikikikichan,

Yes, aside from a comments from fellow surfers, I feel my turns are not as immediate as I would like. But then again my board is a quad retro fish not a thruster shortboard. i'm just trying to see if I should try a 5'6 instead of the 5'10 Retro fish.

Below is the link to my video. It was crowded and hectic that day, 9/7/21. I was able to snag a little wave. my pop-up is about 16 secs in. Apologies in advance - did i mention the video is from Surfline?



https://youtu.be/3tHOmlDGnzU

Is that you that did the fade left go right take off ? You seem to be on a lower line/path than were the others are line up on.
Smaller wave.
Don't see much that is wrong.
Nice last lip bash on the closeout.

Why do you think a 5'6" will help more than being on a 5'10" ?

I would play around with fin set ups ( or even just adjusting the rear quad trailers ) before changing board sizes. What is the current front fins and the current back fins ? If there is a local shop that has the Futures Fins Tree, I would see if they have the Controller fins that you can borrow for free. ( but don't drag them on the rocks inside, then you got to buy them )

Hey Waikikikichan,

Yes, that's me. That ankle-high wave was pretty fun. I had caught a wave at the "point", that Surfline didn't capture, and had ended up further down (lower line) when this wave came to me. Did you see the collision on the same wave between two surfers seconds before my ride lol? I hope they were alright.

Thanks for the compliment on the "lip bash" if one can even call it that. While doing that maneuver/engaging the rail to hit the ankle-high lip, I felt delayed in the turn up the face. I felt I could've hit it faster and harder (even for a fraction of a second). But then again this is a retro fish and not HP shortboard. That could be the reason for the lack of aggressiveness/Bang.

Did you notice my instinctive crouch-down at 20 secs of the footage? I guess the board was too much above the water. Hence, i had to use my weight to push it down to sink the rail to stay with the wave's speed. My hypothesis is that I wouldn't have to work as hard to engage the rail if the board was a little less volume. Hence, this post.

As per the fins, I was riding the V2 front fins and 50/50 foil rear fins. here is the link https://www.cleanlinesurf.com/futures-f ... 1kQAvD_BwE

I have tried different fins on this board and got different riding characteristics. I have not tried controller fins but i heard they are good for going down the line speed. Will try to get my hands on a set. I will also keep experimenting with different fins i already have like the Keels and MR twin and Futures AMT twin. And I will try to stay away from the rocks lol.

Thanks a bunch!!!