Surfing Waves

Hey,
I been surfing for about 4 months now, I surf 5-6 times a week sometimes 7 days for 3-4 hrs a day.
the first 3 weeks of surfing i was riding a Torq TCT 8'6 67.2L longboard felt a way too slow for my liking so i got Torq TEC Bigboy 23 7'2 53.7L and I been surfing this ever since but now its starting to feel a little too slow for my liking again so I want something faster and more maneuverable.

A Little info about me:
I'm 5'10 150lb 18y/o
live on Oahu Hawaii my whole life
been swimming my whole life
above average fitness
I can do all the beginner maneuvers with ease
I surf any where from 3ft-6ft
I also can catch green/unbroken waves with no problem

I talked to my local surf shop that is near my house and they said I should downsize to a 6'0 and that seems like a pretty big down size,i was thinking of going to a 6'4-6'6 around 33L-35L Swallow/Fish tail. I know its not all about length and volume so those are just ball park numbers.

I'm just wanted to hear your guys opinions on what I should do.

Thank you.

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:I talked to my local surf shop that is near my house and they said I should downsize to a 6'0 and that seems like a pretty big down size,i was thinking of going to a 6'4-6'6 around 33L-35L Swallow/Fish tail.

1) What's the name of that local shop ? I know most of the shops and their owners.

2) Where is your local break ? Big difference from Westside, to Northshore or Southshore.

waikikikichan wrote:

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:I talked to my local surf shop that is near my house and they said I should downsize to a 6'0 and that seems like a pretty big down size,i was thinking of going to a 6'4-6'6 around 33L-35L Swallow/Fish tail.

1) What's the name of that local shop ? I know most of the shops and their owners.

2) Where is your local break ? Big difference from Westside, to Northshore or Southshore.

My local shop is called Hawaii surfboard factory, its on the south shore Kapolei side.

My local break is Hau Bush (Oneʻula Beach Park) it holds constant 3ft+ waves (south shore) i only seen it go flat for a week once,i also go to White plains if Hau Bush is bad (south shore),sometimes i go to Ala moana bowls,waikiki,Cliffs its by Diamond head (all south shore),and if there's decent waves at Sunset beach on the weekends i will go there (North shore).

Yup, I know the shop and your surf spots.

I would agree with what you were thinking. 6'6" to 6'4" Big Fish would be a good next challenge. At your rate, you will be on a 6'0" maybe by the end of the year, but for now build up that muscle memory and timing for taking off on the steeper part of the wave that you are forced to do on a shorter board.

By the way, what is the Futures fin set up you currently using on your big boy ?

waikikikichan wrote:Yup, I know the shop and your surf spots.

I would agree with what you were thinking. 6'6" to 6'4" Big Fish would be a good next challenge. At your rate, you will be on a 6'0" maybe by the end of the year, but for now build up that muscle memory and timing for taking off on the steeper part of the wave that you are forced to do on a shorter board.

By the way, what is the Futures fin set up you currently using on your big boy ?

Alright thanks,i been practicing taking off at the steeper part of the waves for a little while now because I read alot of this forum since i first started surfing and i also watched alot of youtube vids but i still need a little more practice on it.

I use it as a thruster setup and use AM1 Honeycomb for the increased maneuverability bc this thing sometimes feels like ur turning a log on weaker waves so AM1 helps a little with that.I was going to use quad but someone that was selling them said it wouldn't be that much of a difference with a board this big.

I would recommend if you're going Diamond Head ( and even Hau Bush ) to use the Future Fins T-1 with center trailer. Then sometimes when you want to get the butt to slide, take out the trailer. If the shop has a Futures Fin Tree, they can let you demo it for free.

waikikikichan wrote:I would recommend if you're going Diamond Head ( and even Hau Bush ) to use the Future Fins T-1 with center trailer. Then sometimes when you want to get the butt to slide, take out the trailer. If the shop has a Futures Fin Tree, they can let you demo it for free.

i just called the surfboard shop and they only have the T1 Alpha Twin + 1 and not the T1 Honeycomb Twin + 1 that i wanted but i might go and pick it up since the Alphas are meant for smaller waves

how does a 2+1 compare to a thruster? Honestly i didnt know i could use a 2+1 on a 5 fin setup i would have gotten a 2+1 if i knew earlier

Getting a 6'4-6'6 fish in the future,what fin setup should i get?whats best for the breaks i surf?

Also, here is a suggestion: when you get better and go shorter you will need a step-up board, might as well get it now to use as a beginner option, for now. You could get a 6'5 or 6'6 thurster that has some beef to it, so that when it gets big you can go back to it after you go shorter. Just a thought form an old wanna-be Slater

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:i just called the surfboard shop and they only have the T1 Alpha Twin + 1 and not the T1 Honeycomb Twin + 1 that i wanted

Stop wasting your money on those wizz-bang expensive fins and just go with the Thermotech fins.

waikikikichan wrote:

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:i just called the surfboard shop and they only have the T1 Alpha Twin + 1 and not the T1 Honeycomb Twin + 1 that i wanted

Stop wasting your money on those wizz-bang expensive fins and just go with the Thermotech fins.

im not worried about the price of fins but ill keep that in mind i was just worried about the quality and performance of the fins

IB_Surfer wrote:Also, here is a suggestion: when you get better and go shorter you will need a step-up board, might as well get it now to use as a beginner option, for now. You could get a 6'5 or 6'6 thurster that has some beef to it, so that when it gets big you can go back to it after you go shorter. Just a thought form an old wanna-be Slater

So if im reading this right,i should get a setup board for my first shortboard?

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:

IB_Surfer wrote:Also, here is a suggestion: when you get better and go shorter you will need a step-up board, might as well get it now to use as a beginner option, for now. You could get a 6'5 or 6'6 thurster that has some beef to it, so that when it gets big you can go back to it after you go shorter. Just a thought form an old wanna-be Slater

So if im reading this right,i should get a setup board for my first shortboard?

Yes. At 190lbs at the time I went from a funboard to a 7ft California gun, then worked my way down. I currently ride a 6'0 shortboard as my regular board at 180lbs, a 6'2 fish as my small wave board and a 6'4 stepup when bigger (plus my guns and bigger step ups for really big days). For your weight you could go down to about a 6'4", use that for a while, then go to a shorter board.

The fish is a good idea too as a beginner board, but when it gets bigger you will need a step-up anyhow so might as well start there. Plus a step up looks like a shortboard, so you get to impress the chicks with it.

IB_Surfer wrote:

Dyyy.lan_ wrote:

IB_Surfer wrote:Also, here is a suggestion: when you get better and go shorter you will need a step-up board, might as well get it now to use as a beginner option, for now. You could get a 6'5 or 6'6 thurster that has some beef to it, so that when it gets big you can go back to it after you go shorter. Just a thought form an old wanna-be Slater

So if im reading this right,i should get a setup board for my first shortboard?

Yes. At 190lbs at the time I went from a funboard to a 7ft California gun, then worked my way down. I currently ride a 6'0 shortboard as my regular board at 180lbs, a 6'2 fish as my small wave board and a 6'4 stepup when bigger (plus my guns and bigger step ups for really big days). For your weight you could go down to about a 6'4", use that for a while, then go to a shorter board.

The fish is a good idea too as a beginner board, but when it gets bigger you will need a step-up anyhow so might as well start there. Plus a step up looks like a shortboard, so you get to impress the chicks with it.

Yeah that makes sense but whats the difference in wave catching ability compared to a shortboard or fish?a step up is designed for bigger waves so im assuming it will be harder to get into waves compared to ur standard shortboard and fish on summer waves.its been around 3-4ft so far where i surf or is a step up a regular shortboard just with more volume and length and im just over thinking it ?

Compare liters to litters almost the same, but the narroer you go the less stable, and fishes are known to be wide. So, do you go with a wide stable fish or with a not so stable step up? Up to you, the fish (unless small) will be easier, but the step up will come in more handy on big waves. The rest is up to you

IB_Surfer wrote:Compare liters to litters almost the same, but the narroer you go the less stable, and fishes are known to be wide. So, do you go with a wide stable fish or with a not so stable step up? Up to you, the fish (unless small) will be easier, but the step up will come in more handy on big waves. The rest is up to you

Alright thank you

If you ever surf White Plains, you might see Emerick Ishikawa. I think he is a lifeguard there. And he surfs Diamond Head a lot if there's South swells.




Fast forward to 5:42. He doesn't need a step up for this.

One thing a lot of mainlanders, who have never surfed in Hawaii, may not realize the difference in "JUICE" that Hawaiian waves have. Not many local surfers really use Fishes ( twin keel ) or Single fin Mid-length in Hawaii. Big boy shortboards or Hybrids are a plenty.

A Step up board board to someone who surfs California compared to a Step up for Hawaiian waves are quite different.

waikikikichan wrote:If you ever surf White Plains, you might see Emerick Ishikawa. I think he is a lifeguard there. And he surfs Diamond Head a lot if there's South swells.

Fast forward to 5:42. He doesn't need a step up for this.

One thing a lot of mainlanders, who have never surfed in Hawaii, may not realize the difference in "JUICE" that Hawaiian waves have. Not many local surfers really use Fishes ( twin keel ) or Single fin Mid-length in Hawaii. Big boy shortboards or Hybrids are a plenty.

A Step up board board to someone who surfs California compared to a Step up for Hawaiian waves are quite different.

I dont think i seen him before but that is very impressive on such a small board (well in my eyes)

Another couple of questions:
-Could your board have too much volume?
-can your board be too thick?
-do you think i could go down to a 6'0 - 6'2 hybrid instead of a 6'4-6'6?i was thinking i can go a little more shorter bc i been progressing alot these past weeks with earlier pop ups and paddling in on the steepest part of the wave and now i can do it every time with ease.it feels so much faster and way more fun! (i just need to make sure im not doing something premature on downsizing and ruining my progression
-and should i go with PU or Epoxy?

-Could your board have too much volume? - Not sure as my boards are over 70 liters

-Can your board be too thick? - Not sure as the current Aipa bid boy sting I've been riding is 3 3/4" thick.

-Do you think i could go down to a 6'0 - 6'2 hybrid instead of a 6'4-6'6?i was thinking i can go a little more shorter bc i been progressing alot these past weeks with earlier pop ups and paddling in on the steepest part of the wave and now i can do it every time with ease.it feels so much faster and way more fun! (i just need to make sure im not doing something premature on downsizing and ruining my progression. - I think you will be missing out building a strong base of leg muscle memory and technique of moving around a board. If you get a 6'6" it won't be your last board anyways, what does it matter if you move down after 3 months or a year later. When your ready then move down. ( like being able to do a clean backside off the lip )

-and should i go with PU or Epoxy? - It depends who your ding repair person is or if you do it your self. I would go with PU/Poly so later as you advance the Epoxy/EPS benefits/drawbacks will be more prominent.

waikikikichan wrote:-Could your board have too much volume? - Not sure as my boards are over 70 liters

-Can your board be too thick? - Not sure as the current Aipa bid boy sting I've been riding is 3 3/4" thick.

-Do you think i could go down to a 6'0 - 6'2 hybrid instead of a 6'4-6'6?i was thinking i can go a little more shorter bc i been progressing alot these past weeks with earlier pop ups and paddling in on the steepest part of the wave and now i can do it every time with ease.it feels so much faster and way more fun! (i just need to make sure im not doing something premature on downsizing and ruining my progression. - I think you will be missing out building a strong base of leg muscle memory and technique of moving around a board. If you get a 6'6" it won't be your last board anyways, what does it matter if you move down after 3 months or a year later. When your ready then move down. ( like being able to do a clean backside off the lip )

-and should i go with PU or Epoxy? - It depends who your ding repair person is or if you do it your self. I would go with PU/Poly so later as you advance the Epoxy/EPS benefits/drawbacks will be more prominent.

Alright im going to take your advice and go with a 6'6-6'4 fish around 35L that is PU/Poly,The pressure dents will definitely bother me since PU is more prone to them compared to Epoxy but if it helps me progress later it will be worth it and its a part of surfing so I better get used to it.

Thank you for answering all my questions

waikikikichan wrote:If you ever surf White Plains, you might see Emerick Ishikawa. I think he is a lifeguard there. And he surfs Diamond Head a lot if there's South swells.

Fast forward to 5:42. He doesn't need a step up for this.

One thing a lot of mainlanders, who have never surfed in Hawaii, may not realize the difference in "JUICE" that Hawaiian waves have. Not many local surfers really use Fishes ( twin keel ) or Single fin Mid-length in Hawaii. Big boy shortboards or Hybrids are a plenty.

A Step up board board to someone who surfs California compared to a Step up for Hawaiian waves are quite different.

Wow that guy is a pleasure to watch. California surfer here. Its true mostly mush here. I envy you guys ha ha. I was stationed in Okinawa many many years ago and surfed there. Im guessing it was more similar to Hawaii as it was all reef. I remember chest to shoulder high waves having so much power. When it got head high it would make me nervous ha ha. Ive never surfed Hawaii but would love to one day. Warm water! As for the young guy shortboard advise I think he will be ripping soon no matter what board he goes with.