Greetings, Forum
This may belong in "Lessons", but here goes:
I've been experimenting with new shapes after exclusively riding long boards for several years. I picked up an 8 foot Stoker V Machine and have been amazed by how easy it is to paddle and get into waves. I can also trim it up and down the face for speed pretty nicely, but am getting increasingly frustrated by how difficult it is to turn. I can't cut it back from the shoulder back to the critical part of the wave, and don't even dream about trying to go vertically up the face from a bottom turn. My 10' feels easier to change directions with!
9 out of 10 times when someone isn't getting the performance they want it's the surfer and not the board, so I'm wondering if anyone has any tips on how to ride these things? Fowler himself has said that they can be surfed farther up the board than most boards, but I've had no luck getting this thing to turn with my back foot 12 to 18" in front of the fins. When my back foot is close to the back I just seem to bog and catch rail.
Any suggestions? Did I buy a dog?
I'm 6'6" 195lbs and surf point breaks like Leo Carillo, Malibu, and County, btw.
Thanks to all...