Surfing Waves

Hey folks, just want to get feedback.

Spent month this winter surfing in Puerto Rico everyday on my 7’2” Bonzer, loved it.

Back on the East Coast, mainly VA Beach and Outerbanks I’m trying to catch smaller waves and start working on my cutback. The 7’2” Bonzer just doesn’t have much rocker and so I kinda suck at making steeper drops. I have a 7’0 G&S Magic Fish that is a thruster And has more rocker. Does this board likely make more sense? I know this question is highly subjective.

The idea that rocker will make a difference in your ability to make steeper drops is not as simple as it seems. Nose rocker is what people think helps to make steep drops but it's actually tail rocker that makes a greater difference as far as I can tell and if you know what to do, a low rockered board can work well in steep waves. Things that help with making steep drops is number one being in the right place at the right time, paddling efficiently and strong enough to get into the wave early, fast popup, angling on takeoff, doing what I call an ankle turn to press the inside rail of the board into the wave from the top or it can be done while popping up, putting your weight forward leaning forward , if you are timid and afraid you will lean back and that just makes it worse. Nose rocker helps the board transition from going down the wave to along the wave if you haven't angled the board by that point. If the board is already angled then nose rocker makes little difference. Nose rocker also can slow the board down especially on bigger waves because then the nose rocker contacts the water it pushes back on the board suddenly slowing it down making you fall forward just as if you had pearled the board. Tail rocker helps to keep that from happening by allowing control of the angle of the board by pressing down on the tail. Maybe others can chime in about which board would be better but maybe a description of the problem you have on steep waves would help.

Thanks, that’s very helpful.

Another question in regards to board choice.

My 7’2” Bonzer 5 has its wide point in the back while my 7’ fish thruster has its wide point up front.

Will the location of widepoint effect ability to catch or drop in smaller waves move down the line?

I’ll take all the pointers I can get for sure. Appreciate the comment.

There are many factors that go into how a board works. I'm not too sure how where the wide point is makes a difference without consideration of rail design and contour and if you want to be able to shred some turns or just ride a fast wave.

The knife is 8 inches and virtually flat. The opening of the peanut butter jar is only 3 inches. How do we get the knife to "fit" in the jar ?



The surfboard is 7 foot 2 inches and not much rocker. The opening of the small wave's face is 3 feet (waist high). How do we get the surfboard to "fit" in the wave ?

The knife and peanut butter analogy made my day. I may have laughed out loud. Thanks for that.

Slomoracing wrote: I’m trying to catch smaller waves and start working on my cutback.

I got a friend who surf 30 foot waves no problem, but is not really good in 3 foot waves. There's less room, things are tighter and there's less speed and umph from the wave to help move your board.

So my knife/jar analogy touches on the point of the technique all good surfers have ( other than a strong paddle ). And that technique is the Bottom Turn. As OMS has written about, not only rocker, but how the rider utilizes the rocker of the board. You can't be forward all the time, you can be back all the time. You can't lean too hard or not enough on the rail. If you stood in the correct place on the "wrong" board, would it turn and fit into the wave better than standing in the wrong place on the right board ?

It's the delicate balance of weight shift and counter-weighting.

Here I am on a 7'0" Gordon & Smith Magic Fish.

There are many different ways to stick a longer board on a short faced steep wave but rocker really doesn't make too much difference to me. Rocker doesn't shorten a 7'2" board to a 5'4" board which still doesn't fit into 3 feet. but it helps a little. On the other hand on small steep waves there are many options to get down the face for a bottom turn with a longer board. I sometimes just go over the falls step on the tail and keep the board parallel to the bottom then make a bottom turn. You can turn at the top and sideslip down the wave or you can angle the board on the takeoff using any of the methods I described. Fast breaking steep waves don't allow a straight drop with a longer board except as I mentioned. If you can get in early then it's not a steep wave at least on the takeoff and then rocker issues are much less important except for turning vs speed. My 9'6" longboard did small fast steep shorebreak waves really well but the takeoff had to be angled and the popup and bottom turn need to be quick. I surf an 8 foot funboard and it does well in a variety of conditions.

Thanks for all the feedback.

That picture sequence of you on the magic fish is righteous. A 7’0 board can look totally different underfoot of people depending on their height (duh) at 6’5” my 7’0” magic fish feels short.