Hi folks,
I'm 40 and I've been surfing for 16 years, so I'm not an inexperienced surfer. Traditionally I've rode fish and shortboards. About 3 years ago I moved to Oahu. I surf 3-4 times a week. Mostly small-medium size, fast reef breaks. To deal with the crowds, high-caliber of surfers, and large variety of craft riders; pro-level shortboards, skilled longboards, SUP's, foils, etc, I bought a 8 foot Wavestorm. If you're unfamiliar, it's a soft foam board with 3 equal size plastic fins that cost $100, has more float than a longboard, and is insanely fun!
I've been using the Wavestorm more than my other 2 boards combined, and I've been feeling this weird sense of guilt for riding it so much. Sure it's fun, but everyone assumes I'm a tourist that can't surf when I paddle out, and once they realize I can surf, they're mildly annoyed that I'm on a Wavestorm instead of a real board. In short, I've been thinking of getting a mini-log from a local Oahu shaper, sometime in the 8 foot range. I'm not sure if it'll catch the really small stuff as well, but I bet it'll turn better on overhead days at the outer reefs, and I'll feel less dorky.
My question, should I get a 2+1 or thruster set-up with regular Futures boxes? My Wavestorm is super lively. The rails are a bit funny, but it has enough rocker and a pulled in enough tail to catch some bombs! Surprisingly, it pumps really well rail-to-rail, and it turns kinda good too, despite the funny rails. I attribute some of the performance I get out of my Wavestorm to the 3 equal sized fins. They probably has a lot of flex because they're plastic. I'm wondering if I should get a 8 foot performance mini-log with a pulled in rounded tail the 3 large Futures fins to tackle the outer reefs? I don't really need a full-log like most people use because I paddle fast, and a log won't fin in my car, or apartment.
Do you think I'd get more performance and enough hold out of 3 standard thruster fins in an 8 foot board? Alternately I could get a 2+1, those colorful single fins sure are sexy, and I have Futures side bits already. I just feel like 2+1 won't surf as well rail-to-rail, and my turns will be more drawn out and less "shortboard'ie". I guess 2+1 will give me more hold for steep sections, but also more drag? I'm kind of an active surfer so I like to pump and make small adjustments when faced with a long-steep wall, or barrel. I don't just sit there, although that style is cool too.
Does anyone have any advise on the pros' and cons' of riding a 8 foot mini-performance-longboard with 2+1 fin set-up vs thruster? I'll be using this board on small days at my local reef break, which has fast lefts and rights. When it gets overhead my manageable reef break turns into a circus of hollow, dredging, death barrels, and fiery hot local pro's and rippers. On these days I retreat to the powerful but manageable outer reef breaks, long walls, scary drops, and mostly friendly gals and guys riding big boards.
Any advise on the fin issue would be appreciated.