Surfing Waves

Hey all,

I'm around 195 pounds 6'2 beginner and have been surfing a 9'2 longboard (link below) in 2-4 ft surf the past half a year (I go out a few times a week when I can). I am looking to step down in size (eventually want to shortboard), but am overwhelmed with all the choices.

Regarding my abilities:
I can pop up most of the time and ride along the face of the wave either left or right (I've been skateboarding my whole life so it helps a bit). My take offs in bigger waves (e.g. steeper 3ft and 4ft) definitely need work, I nosedive often and do not angle my take offs yet. I was thinking that a somewhat smaller sized board than my 9'2 may be helpful, and also good to have when the surf gets bigger.

I've been thinking of getting an Odysea 6'6 Soft Top Skipper but am worried that it may be too small. Shall I step down more gradually, like getting a larger than 7' board first? Or should I simply stick to the 9'2 until I am more comfortable with my take offs in steeper waves (like catching the waves earlier) and think about a smaller board later?

Thanks!

My current board:
https://surfboardagency.com/aloha-fun-÷-longboard/

I think most people will tell you that a 6’6 is way too short. You might be able to make it work, but you might end up floundering around for a few months. Shorter boards give no margin for error - if your wave positioning, timing, paddling, pop up and technique aren’t good already, you will not catch waves and fall off. And it’s hard to improve those skills if you are never catching waves

Go with a 7-7’6 funboard. After than a high 6ft hybrid or fish; then the 6’6

armantas wrote: (eventually want to shortboard)

WHY ?

Can you give me two reasons why you feel that way. ( your response will help me give my advice on a future board purchase )

armantas wrote:Hey all,

I'm around 195 pounds 6'2 beginner and have been surfing a 9'2 longboard (link below) in 2-4 ft surf the past half a year (I go out a few times a week when I can). I am looking to step down in size (eventually want to shortboard), but am overwhelmed with all the choices.

Regarding my abilities:
I can pop up most of the time and ride along the face of the wave either left or right (I've been skateboarding my whole life so it helps a bit). My take offs in bigger waves (e.g. steeper 3ft and 4ft) definitely need work, I nosedive often and do not angle my take offs yet. I was thinking that a somewhat smaller sized board than my 9'2 may be helpful, and also good to have when the surf gets bigger.

I've been thinking of getting an Odysea 6'6 Soft Top Skipper but am worried that it may be too small. Shall I step down more gradually, like getting a larger than 7' board first? Or should I simply stick to the 9'2 until I am more comfortable with my take offs in steeper waves (like catching the waves earlier) and think about a smaller board later?

Thanks!

My current board:
https://surfboardagency.com/aloha-fun-÷-longboard/

I am of similar size as you. 4y experiences beginner. And I found even a step down to 8ft quite a challenge with less volume, later Wave catching, faster popup required. I suggest to get comfortable with the longboard - 3-4 feet is normally not too big at all.

Thanks guys, this is very helpful, I think I will stick to my longboard for now until I get more comfortable catching and riding waves, especially the larger ones (I am not yet confident with 4ft, those still seem large to me). I definitely want to avoid floating around, and would instead ride as many waves as possible until I get better. Where I surf, there seems to be some kind of obsession around who rides the shortest board. I am really not into this, I just want to surf.

waikikikichan wrote:

armantas wrote: (eventually want to shortboard)

WHY ?

Can you give me two reasons why you feel that way. ( your response will help me give my advice on a future board purchase )

They seem more maneuverable and faster, I like when surfers do cutbacks or go up the lip and jump down or do airs (that's a distant dream). It seems like a more aggressive style of surfing, which I do like to watch. I still need to try this type of surfing (when I am ready!) before I know for certain whether I would like it, but I think I would really like it. Walking around on a longboard somehow does not look as appealing to me (I have been aggressive street skateboarding my whole life), BUT, having said that, I think it would be helpful for me to learn such longboarding to get better. It also seems to me that shorter boards are harder to nosedive, but that's probably my lack of knowledge and surfing ability (I am paranoid of nosediving on my longboard). To the best of my understanding, I do not necessarily need a shortboard to do the above, perhaps other shapes would suit my progression better. Also, shorter boards are easier to fit in the car (7-8ft would be already great for me, my 9'2 takes up the entire inside of my VW Jetta).

What are your thoughts?
Thanks!

A 7-8 ft. soft board would be a much better choice for going down in size, and would be a much easier transition than a 6'6". More importantly, there is no additional benefit to be gained by going too far down in size.

If you can rent or borrow such a board I would recommend giving it a go sometime. It is a different feeling than riding a proper longboard, and you may like it. Of course overall the bigger the board the generally easier it is to ride, but every board size/shape has its tradeoffs. I learned on a very high volume 7' soft board, it was a good learning board for me because the volume gave me plenty of stability even if it didn't match an LB in other aspects (paddle speed, early entry into waves, etc.)

armantas wrote: (7-8ft would be already great for me, my 9'2 takes up the entire inside of my VW Jetta).

Which year and trim is your Jetta? Amazing you can fit a 9'2 inside. Mine (2016, SE) can fit 8', and I doubt anything bigger would fit...

First thank you so much for replying to my question.

armantas wrote:They seem more maneuverable and faster

Yes and so are Formula One cars vs. your Honda Civic. But can you handle the greater speed and have the faster reaction times ? I bet I can go around the Nuremburg circuit faster in my Honda Civic than if I was in the cockpit of a F1.

armantas wrote: I like when surfers do cutbacks or go up the lip and jump down or do airs (that's a distant dream). It seems like a more aggressive style of surfing, which I do like to watch.

Is it the Arrow or the Indian ? Maybe your area has a lot of "loggers" that stall for 1/2 the wave and then cross-step, perch on the nose, step back and perform a drop-knee cutback. But come to Hawaii and see a different form of longboarding.

( this footage is from Miyazaki Japan, but I wanted to show you what a Hawaiian can do on a longboard. Fast forward to :17 )

It's your mindset. It's your approach. ( Classic, casual, Progressive, aggressive ) You're the artist, you paint on the wave how you want to.

armantas wrote: (I am paranoid of nosediving on my longboard).

And that is why you nosedive. For most beginners, the things you do to prevent nosediving/pearling, is the very thing that causes you to nosedive even more. Stop looking at the nose and look up and out down the line. ( even before your hands releases the deck )

While I agree with Waikikichan, I think mastering a longboard may be as challenging or more challenging than stepping down. It proves what he’s saying but also allows a choice IMO: what’s the goal? Cutbacks, hacks, etc. will eventually be easier on a smaller board. Mastering the longboard will never give you the experience you need to learn how to deal with lower volume boards that require much stronger paddling and will force you to learn how to position yourself.

I guess what I’m saying is that stepping down will challenge you in the ways you will need to be challenged to go short. Steveylang’s recommendation of a 7-8’ soft top is what I was going to say. I’m a beginner still (2+ years ~4 times per week), and I learned A LOT from riding a foamie. I learned late take offs, charging close outs to try to get barreled hahahaha, pumping, etc. on foamies. Things I wouldn’t have necessarily tried on a proper longboard.

This is just my 2 cents as a 49 year old stoked grom lol.

Tom

Here is what I wonder. If you are having problem doing a maneuver on a longboard and switch to a shorter board what is the odds that you will just have the same problem on a shorter board? To me it seems like some boards are easier to do some maneuvers but it is quite similar doing them on any board. So I would imagine that if you have problems doing something ion a longboard that problem will remain if you use a different board.

Thanks guys, these are all very helpful comments!
I decided to stick to longer (8-9') boards for now until I get comfortable.

Also, my longboard broke today during a wipeout...
Now I really need a new one. I am thinking to use this opportunity to step down just slightly to 8'6 or get a 8' foamy!

waikikikichan wrote:First thank you so much for replying to my question.

armantas wrote:They seem more maneuverable and faster

Yes and so are Formula One cars vs. your Honda Civic. But can you handle the greater speed and have the faster reaction times ? I bet I can go around the Nuremburg circuit faster in my Honda Civic than if I was in the cockpit of a F1.

armantas wrote: I like when surfers do cutbacks or go up the lip and jump down or do airs (that's a distant dream). It seems like a more aggressive style of surfing, which I do like to watch.

Is it the Arrow or the Indian ? Maybe your area has a lot of "loggers" that stall for 1/2 the wave and then cross-step, perch on the nose, step back and perform a drop-knee cutback. But come to Hawaii and see a different form of longboarding.
( this footage is from Miyazaki Japan, but I wanted to show you what a Hawaiian can do on a longboard. Fast forward to :17 )

It's your mindset. It's your approach. ( Classic, casual, Progressive, aggressive ) You're the artist, you paint on the wave how you want to.

armantas wrote: (I am paranoid of nosediving on my longboard).

And that is why you nosedive. For most beginners, the things you do to prevent nosediving/pearling, is the very thing that causes you to nosedive even more. Stop looking at the nose and look up and out down the line. ( even before your hands releases the deck )

Thanks for the words of wisdom waikikikichan, I really needed this! My jaw dropped when I was watching the Hawaiian video, it's awesome.

Thanks for the tip, I will practice looking up and down the line to avoid nosediving! I indeed do nosedive when I overthink. It's similar in skateboarding, when I think about how to prevent falling before/during the trick, that's actually when one falls.

ConcreteVitamin wrote: Which year and trim is your Jetta? Amazing you can fit a 9'2 inside. Mine (2016, SE) can fit 8', and I doubt anything bigger would fit...

I have the 2009 Sedan. The back seats recline forward, providing access to the trunk. I then also recline the front passenger seat the lowest I can, and slide the board from the trunk towards the front, all the way onto the front passenger seat. It fits really well (well, it used to before I broke my board, haha) with room to spare! I can send a photo if needed.