Surfing Waves

I know your meant to go a bit bigger for bigger waves but what about volume?
I normally ride a 5’8 28.5 litters, but this weekend I was really struggling paddling onto waves as the waves were head height or above, and quite rolling too.
I have been looking for a step up board, my mate is selling one at a good price, it is a 6’2 but also 28.5 liters, I guess the extra length will help but should I be looking for more litters too?
Cheers

there are lots of things that affect how a board paddles but narrower boards have less drag given the same bottom contour. I imagine if you had 2 boards with the same volume and similar design and one was longer and narrower then that board probably paddles better. More litters will help as well. But to answer your question is difficult since there are often other differences in design as well. Can't you try it out?

Also you don't need a bigger board to go on bigger waves but you do need to figure out how to use the board you have on bigger waves. Bigger boards allow you to get into the wave earlier so they keep you from having to maker late drops... well at least less late drops. There is probably a maximum size wave that anyone can catch using a particular board but what you can do to increase that size is to get better at paddling and positioning and taking late drops

Why don't you use the longer length boards you already have in your quiver ?
You have a Spider Hydro X 6'1 - 19 x 2 1/2 - 31.3ltr and a Hurricane KO - 6'0 x 21 x 2 1/2 - 35.9ltr. How do those work in head high waves ?

Also look up ‘step up’ boards - this seems to be what you are asking about.

https://stabmag.com/news/why-a-step-up- ... ss-bierke/

dtc wrote:Also look up ‘step up’ boards - this seems to be what you are asking about.

https://stabmag.com/news/why-a-step-up- ... ss-bierke/

Nice wave and no one else going for it? Must be a bigger one outside?

Thanks again guys.
Oldman my friend should let me try it, probably no bigger waves coming for a while though
Waikiki good memory, I swapped my hydro-x for the 5’8 I am riding, still have that KO fish though and it is probably fine for the waves I’ll be riding, it’s quite a fast board though, was planning on trying it next time, my mate is selling this board at a good price so I was tempted, I think I have a problem with buying boards and need to go for some help
Maybe I need to be good and just try my KO fish again, it’s getting into summer here anyway.

What is the width of your friend's 6'2" ? I hope not 18 inches.

Also a same board can work in different size/type waves by changing the fins. What fins you use on the KO ?

It’s 19 across, he did get it for a step up board but he said it’s not responsive enough for him and got something narrower, new board he as only riden about 4 times, he is a lot more advanced than me.
I ride a thruster on the KO but never experimented with quad so maybe now is the time? A quad has better hold?
I feel comfortable on that KO, it doesn’t have much of a rocker at all so I guess not great for late takeoffs but it should be able to get on the wave early enough.
Thanks again for the advice.

mg100 wrote: A quad has better hold?

NO. It depends on many factors.

mg100 wrote:I feel comfortable on that KO, it doesn’t have much of a rocker at all so I guess not great for late takeoffs but it should be able to get on the wave early enough.

Long boards are longer and probably even flatter than your KO, but they can still make the drop on overhead waves. So yes, getting in early can make up for lack of rocker.


Here's Maui Zack on his 9'0" taking off deep.

waikikikichan wrote:

mg100 wrote: A quad has better hold?

NO. It depends on many factors.

mg100 wrote:I feel comfortable on that KO, it doesn’t have much of a rocker at all so I guess not great for late takeoffs but it should be able to get on the wave early enough.

Long boards are longer and probably even flatter than your KO, but they can still make the drop on overhead waves. So yes, getting in early can make up for lack of rocker.

Screenshot 2018-09-19 at 6.32.16 PM.png

Here's Maui Zack on his 9'0" taking off deep.

I really like that picture. It shows a flat longboard on a steep drop. Looks like maybe he was rail grabbing but then let go and you can see he has his board angled so it isn't going straight down the face then you can also see he has the rail set in the wall and the nose of his board is pointed directly at the surfer who is duck diving. As he gets to where the duckdiver was the nose will contact the curving out bottom of the wave and go partially under (only the inside half of the nose will go under) but will push itself back out due to the shape of the wave and the nose of the board

Also his weight is forward and the knee on his rear leg is either touching or close to touching the board so he is ready to shift back back as soon as he gets down the face and completes the drop.