Surfing Waves

I'm heading back to the US in a couple months and a friend wants me to pick up a board for him. They are a lot cheaper than here in Japan. I wasn't planning on getting anything, but looking around a bit the Vacay caught my eye and I can't really get it out of my mind. The description really seems to match up with that I feel I'd enjoy. I'm 5'8, 155lbs 40yrs, I can catch green waves, go down the line. I'd be looking at the 7'2". I've gone shorter which is easier to transport, but I kind of miss the longer boards. My friend is pushing me to go shorter/less volume, but I don't feel I'm ready for that yet.

I'm not sure if I'm hoping I'll be talked out of it or talked into it. But any thoughts on the board itself, or other options? There is a Firewire shop down in Shonan I might call tomorrow. Hopefully they have test drives and maybe I can give it a try on Saturday.

https://shop.firewiresurfboards.com/col ... over-vacay

what are you surfing at the moment? I'm assuming you are surfing something around about 7ft or so?

dont know the board itself but from the website it looks like a pretty good board. It does have a bit of nose rocker and quite a refined (thin) nose, so it wont be quite as easy to paddle as boards with more foam up front. But you arent very heavy so I think a 7'2 should be ok for you. Its outline is a lot like one of my boards (http://grantmillersurfboards.com.au/boards/powerglide ); mine is a 7'4 and a tad wider (I think its 22 wide from memory; mine has slightly less nose rocker); and I have found the shape to be really super stable, its virtually impossible to fall off. Its not a fast board through the water (large nose and all that), but that is generally fine. Sometimes there are sections you dont make around, but on the other hand a slightly slower board is a lot easier to learn on.

I dont know what waves you surf; the vacay has a fair bit of tail rocker which is good for steeper waves but can slow the board down on mushy/weaker waves. But probably not enough to make it a real problem. You may want to consider the 7'6 if you generally surf small waves.

Anyway - it looks like a good board. The other firewire to consider is the SeaAxe. This is a higher performance mid length, so if you thought that was something you wanted to aim at. But the vacay would make for the easier board to surf and sounds like its a good board for you

I had a 7'6". Fairly big and bulky. I didn't take it out as much as I wanted due to the size. 7'2 is still a bit long, but those 4" will make it more manageable. It wasn't so easy to turn and that's something I need to work on.

I got a 6'6 which I haven't ridden in a couple months. I probably should of taken Waikiki's advice and gotten the Egg, but it's only money. It seems like it should be a good board for me, but it's a little quirky. Pretty much a long board cut down to 6'6, huge concave up front. I've improved some since the beginning of the year and I should give it a try again. I know skill is part of it, but even some of my much better surfer friends say it's definitely different to ride. No good for steep/hollow waves. They even have trouble getting on them with it, but I know it's also a skill thing. The board can't take all the blame.

It was probably a mistake, but a friend went to the US and was bringing back a board from a friend's shop, he had space to carry another, but length was maxed at 6' due to his bag. I got a Puddlefish at a good deal. It's what I've been 'riding' recently. Definitely convenient for the train and I can travel with some friends that ride short boards and can't accommodate much beyond 6'. I can catch green waves with it pretty easily, but I can't turn well enough, or do cutbacks. My skill isn't good enough to really ride it, and thus I noticed I've kind of plateaued on it. I've learned some things, but going larger again would be nice. Too short too early. All too common story.

I surf in Japan, near Tokyo. Waves aren't that big, especially in summer. The Puddlefish would be great if I could ride it better, although it's probably a bit large for me if I was a better rider. I want something easier to handle than a foamy. The ability to handle the larger waves as my skill increases is actually something from the Vacay that appeals to me about it. My current setup kind of has a hole there, and I'd like to start taking some trips to areas with better waves. It's a new board so there aren't many reviews, but it seems quite maneuverable compared to similar sized boards. Maybe not ideal for small waves, but a long board isn't an option for me. (no place to store it, and difficult to get it to the beach. I'd need to store it at a surf shop)

One friend (way better surfer) is pushing me to go smaller (35l, 6foot-ish) to handle big waves, but I'm not ready for it. Especially after the Puddlefish that's pretty clear to me. Something a bit slower and with more glide sounds nice. I looked at the Sea Axe, but I think the Vacay suits my level better. Performance isn't exactly what's hold me back at the moment.

I could just get a Torq, but if I'm bringing a board back from the US I'd rather get something a little special. My experiment with the 6'6 has turned me off some of more the budget store brands. A few friends have gone that route too, to save a few bucks. It seems like the better brands really just make a better board, but the markup here is crazy.

You can't take a board longer than 2 meters ( case included which it's required to be in ? ) on the train. So that's around 6'5". But I've never had train staff check me. But 7'2" might raise up some flags.

Really? I’ve taken my 7’6 a few times and several people bring 7’+ boards to the stations we meet at. It’s not on weekday rush hours so maybe they give us a bit more slack?

One woman was bringing a 8’6 longboard or something to Yotsuya. I have no idea how she managed that rules or not.

Not sure what I’d get if it should be under 7 feet, if anything.

I sometimes have the feeling where I live that I see on the faces of some authority figures that they will cut me more slack than a local because they just don't want to have to confront a foreigner.....sometimes I help that along by speaking english rather than bahasa, or speaking rather quickly or with heavy accent and slang to encourage dismissal.

Today coming back from surfing I had to carry both a 6'6 and a 7'6 back home. The subway staff actually sent someone to help make sure I got both boards on the train even with one being over their limit. We had a nice talk about her experience surfing when she was much younger while waiting for the train. We did verify on the JR site that items over 2m isn't allowed on the train, officially, but they don't seem to enforce it. The 7'6 is definitely too tall to stand up in the normal subway cars though.

Here’s my best Jaffa attempt:
If you’re White, you’ll be alright.
But if you’re Yellow, you’ll be in peril.
How come your big board goes on the train
when for me, I only get met with disdain ?

Haha. Nice poem! Unfortunately there is probably some truth to it. Foreigners can get a pass on some things, even if aren't trying to bend the rules. After doing a lot more research and asking some questions that Vacay seems like a good board for me. I don't *need* it, but there is a paycheck coming every month..

Went out Sunday with some small waves, but probably had the best session on the Puddle Jumper I've had so far. Things seemed to click a bit. Maybe the extra training/practice is helping a bit.

Hi guys, I am a teenage surfer from Australia. I just realised a new video on my Vimeo page but am finding it hard to generate views. I would really appreciate it if you could follow the link below and check out the clip, feel free to tell me what you thought.

https://vimeo.com/286853216

Hey Aidan, How do I give it a Thumbs down ? There's only a Like / Heart button. Too many "F-words".
And an extra Thumbs down for jumping in on someone else's post for your own promotion.

@waikikichan Thanks for the advice!

waikikikichan wrote:Too many "F-words".

Shoulda just stuck with Spacemen 3.

Tom

Sorry to bring back this thread. After much reading (especially posts here on advice for people wanting to progress) and some soul searching on my real skill level and goals. I've come to the conclusion that although a Vacay 7'2 might work it's probably on the smaller end of what I should be riding to progress more quickly. I'm considering getting something longer and finding a board locker to store it at.

I was curious what advice you'd give on going longer. I could just go up to a 7'10 Vacay or Seaxe. Not quite a long board, but probably better to progress on. Something like a 8-9ft Torq or NSP? Would an upgrade to a 'better' board be worth it? 8'7 or 8'11 Submoon or other longboard-is options up to about 9 feet? The board would mostly be stuck at whatever break I store it at, If some options might be more flexible as far as conditions I might rank those a bit here.

Out of the firewire longboard choices what would you recommend?

Based on what you've described, I guess I'd be surprised if a 7'2" Vacay was too short for you, or would hinder your progress? The Vacay seems like the most conservative of those mid-length Firewire boards, and a good choice. I'd also consider a Torq or NSP fun board at that size, I doubt a 'tried and true' design from a large supplier would surf poorly.

7' to 7'2" also seems close enough to take on the train? (since they don't seem to be absolute sticklers about the rule.) If you can stand it upright, then the extra length seems a lot less important than say a longboard that has to be significantly at an angle to fit onboard.

Oh, it wouldn’t hinder my progress. It would probably be better than what I have now. But a longer board would probably be a better choice.

I’ve had a couple recent surfs, one on a large foamy, one on a friend’s roughly 9 foot board. It was so much easier to work on turns and trimming than it ever has been on my shorter boards. I’ve always loved watching the long boarders out there. I’d like to learn to walk the board they do.

It’s not that I haven’t wanted to longboard, the size has always been the issue. It’s time for me to suck it up and just get a board locker to put it in. I’ve recently discovered a couple in Chiba where I like to surf that allow 24 hour access. Hopefully they have space available.

After sleeping on it. The smart choice is to probably get a torq or nsp board here. New, used if I can find it. It a little cheaper than bringing something back. I’d like something cool, but it won’t make a lot of difference right now.

CharlesTokyo wrote:Out of the firewire longboard choices what would you recommend?

This sounds good, Firewire Gem 9'1


I have an Addvance 6'6 and a Submoon 8'2, I'm 75kg 182cm 55yo. All great boards, but nothing paddles like a 9+ foot.

That gem is a nice shape.....would like to ride that.

CharlesTokyo wrote: Would an upgrade to a 'better' board be worth it?

What is a "better" board ? You mean a board that costs more ? Lighter ?

steveylang wrote:7' to 7'2" also seems close enough to take on the train? (since they don't seem to be absolute sticklers about the rule.)

Make sure to remove the fins and have a well padded board case.