Surfing Waves

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for my next board and I would appreciate your thoughts

About me: Age 34, 181cm, 70 KG, Good shape, decent skill (9 years experience surfing 25-35 days a year).
Surf Area: Beach break, knee-chest high, weak waves, usually breaks fast.
What I'm looking for: Daily driver with - 1) Good paddle power 2) Playful 3) Fast

From your personal experience, would board would you recommend?

Boards in mind: Rocket / Rocket wide, Chumlee (?) , Evo, Chilli Rare bird, GO FISH ... Your suggestion?

Thanks!

What do you surf now and what don't you like about it?

How old and heavy are you?

Fredi84 wrote:What I'm looking for:
Daily driver with -
1) Good paddle power
2) Playful
3) Fast

From your personal experience, would board would you recommend?

Boards in mind: Rocket / Rocket wide, Chumlee (?) , Evo, Chilli Rare bird, GO FISH .

Looks like you've been hypnotized by all the marketing hype. But hey, they need your money.

Good paddle power. Surf boards like computers, baseball bats, or paint brush have no potential on their own. Can YOU paddle fast ? Who makes a board that is marketed as a "Slow paddling" board ? I'm not sure one on your list has a marked difference in paddling power.

Playful. Again Indian not the Arrow. But I would say a Swallow tail is more playful than a Pin tail.

Fast. What is fast too you ? It may mean different things to different surfers. Quick in transitions or pure MPH ? Rhino chaser / big waves guns are fast but so are dragsters, but a nissan Skyline GTR will go faster around a race circuit than a dragster.

Ben Aipa asked me when I was in his shaping bay, " Do you want me to make you a FAST board or a board you can MAKE go fast. There IS a difference.

So what do I advise you get ? Based on your criteria, you should get a ..........TWIN FIN.

( Watch from :57, easy take off, gets in early, playful and fast. )

Thanks, guys for the tips!

My current daily driver (5'9 , 27.6 L EPS, 4.5 years old ) is from a local shaper and I own a Clayton 10 pro for those bigger days.



As I mentioned before, I'm in good shape and paddle quite well. I'm no shaping expert but I can say from my own personal experience that the differences in paddle power and take off between boards are noticeable. My daily driver is shorter and has a wider nose and less rocker from my bigger waves board. I can definitely say it is way easier to paddle with. Same goes for the takeoff.

What I like about the board: Floats well, easy to paddle
What I want to improve: MPH, takeoff, quicker in transitions (last priority).

Fredi84 wrote:Surf Area: Beach break, knee-chest high, weak waves, usually breaks fast.

Fredi84 wrote: My daily driver is shorter and has a wider nose and less rocker from my bigger waves board. I can definitely say it is way easier to paddle with. Same goes for the takeoff.

What I like about the board: Floats well, easy to paddle
What I want to improve: MPH, takeoff, quicker in transitions (last priority).

There is like a maximum terminal velocity you can attain ( albeit without going to some external power source like Wind or Gas combustion ) on a Weak Wave that Breaks Fast.
1) Are other surfers making the section ?
2) What board brand / models are they riding ?
3) Have you asked your local shaper to make you a faster board made for you local surf spot ?

Fredi84 wrote:Boards in mind: Rocket / Rocket wide, Chumlee (?) , Evo, Chilli Rare bird, GO FISH ... Your suggestion?

I would go for a Chumlee, the Helium build is so ultralight and still strong from what I read about it. In smaller waves a lightweight board is a big advantage because you can pump it so easy to gain speed.