surfboard advice intermediate

[MrJN]

Hi guys.
After an endless amount of googling for a new surfboard, I thought I try and post here since you appeared to be such a friendly bunch. I am 190cm and 80kg (6`3 and 176lbs). I currently ride a 7´6 minimal and can catch a wave, trim and go down the line. I have been on and off trying to get a hang of it for a few years, but seriously have the bug now. Where I live, (south in the South Island of NZ) the waves are usually quite powerful and I need a board that I can duck dive comfortably as turtle rolling usually doesnt cut it and its hard on the joints to hang on to the board. I also want something that feels a bit more lively, easier to turn and would handle bigger surf. I have been thinking about a 6´6 torq. Am I on the right trail? I see some people dont really recommend a swallow tail if you are not an advanced surfer? Thanks in advance.

[dtc]

I’m your height and weight almost exactly and have a 7’4 and a 6’10

Anyway, you will definitely notice that a board under 7ft is harder to catch waves the 7’6. If you drop a foot you will probably initially go from catching 9/10’waves to maybe 5/10 or less (and some of the failures will be spectacular over the falls ...).

Unless you are paddle fit ie surf 2+ times per week or do po training, you will also tire out a lot faster, so your sessions might be 30-50% shorter

But...if you are prepared to catch half as many waves and only last for half the time, then by all means. I’m not saying this because it’s a bad idea, just to let you know what to expect for your first few (to quite a few) sessions. It can be a lot to trade off for a board you can duck dive (and don’t think duck diving a larger board is that much less tiring than turtle rolls). Eventually you will get it but it will take a while

Also keep in mind that most people go for a bigger board (than their normal board) when the surf is big.

But if you are prepared for all that - and managing expectations is the main thing - the Torq is a fair board. Although why not go for the 6’8 mod fun as it’s probably slightly easier as a transition?

It’s actually quite hard to find a good board around mid to upper 6ft for larger guys like us. Other than the Torqs you might have to look at the more custom designs (McCoy nugget or miller water skate are good designs depending on your style - I’m just mentioning them as example boards to look at rather than to buy). The FireWire Addvance or maybe dominator are more mainstream board that are similar to the waterskate and nugget respectively.

Most other boards are beefed up short boards (generally don’t work that well when stretched) or the occasional shrunken funboards (which are ok but uncommon). So it’s not surprising that you haven’t found it easy to find something (I ended up going custom).

So after all that - yes, the Torq will be fine so long as you appreciate and are prepared for the consequences of dropping so far. A 6’10 will make the surfing part easier but you won’t be able to duck dive

[Big H]

I'm shorter and heavier than you, but more or less in the same ballpark (1.85cm and 92kg). I'm in Bali and we have some decent waves sometimes......I wouldn't jump down a foot; especially since a 7'6" will allow for popping up with toes; a 6'6" is a totally different board than a 7'6", and you need a 'tweener board around 7' first which will build your feeling for a shortboard in that whether or not you use your toes now, you won't at 7' becoz your toes will hang just over the end.....anyway, a 7' pointy nosed fun shape will feel a lot less stable, a lot more lively and a lot shorter than what you're on now and will give you plenty to work on for some time. Don't go too short too fast; 6'6" is a different kind of surfing....there is pitch control (controlling the nose, up and down with your body) that you'll find out about when going for a wave....will feel like a feather under your feet after the mini mal, and not in a good way.
The board pictured was a 7'. I've since sold it but dims were 7' x 21.5" x 2.75". A board like this would be a good next step.

[Big H]

Some other boards I have or have had, sizes and dimensions that would work. As you can see I've tried a lot of boards around 7' with similar dimensions. The McCoy and the Byrne are totally different boards even if their dimensions are similar. Anyway, I'd recommend 7' at the shortest for you since shorter than that is really a different animal and from my experience you're better off with a step in between.

[jaffa1949]

Sumner or further south?

[oldmansurfer]

I surf powerful waves and can't duck dive my board. It's 8' x 23" x 3.75" I am 6'2" and 210 pounds and 64 years old. Mostly I am good at avoiding situations where I have to duck dive but if the situation arrives I do a half duck dive. I shove the nose under the water as much as I can basically kind of doing a hand stand with the back end of the board and the back end of my body still out of the water but angled down. When the wave hits it pushes my rear end and the rear end of the board down and I pull the nose up and mostly go under the wave. I find it much less effort than turning turtle which I still do if the situation needs it. When I come up I am on my board and ready to paddle

[MrJN]

Thanks for the thorough and fast replies. The advice is really appreciated, including the one on the "half duck dive". Have to give it a go. As always, money is also of consideration. I´ll have to chew on it a bit further but I do get the message about not going to short. I have plenty experience from other boardsports (25y+) so feel pretty comfortable once I am up and standing. Getting to that point is another story though. Jaffa - further south - sunny dunners..

[jaffa1949]

Knowing where you are likely to get out for your surfs, that red Mitchell,Rae board would suit me !
I know it’s not available though.
It hits hard down there , bit like an AB...

[Big H]

It is a good board....pulled in tail works well in steep and strong waves....wide under chest and nose makes for an easy paddler.....shape like this will be challenging at first but should be ok with some determination.