Surfing Waves

Hello all!

I'm looking to buy a new surfboard, maybe as an extra board, or perhaps replace my current board. Before I make a decision, I'd like your guys' opinion about it, so I'll write a bit so you know what my situation is.

Experience / skill
I'm 34, 165lbs (75kg) and I'm about 5'7-5'8 (1m 75). Fitness is above average, especially for my age, but I'm not extremely fit. I think I have above average paddle power because of a lifetime of swimming and waterpolo. I surf for about 2 years now, mostly on my BIC 7'6 mini nose rider (7'6, 22 1/4, 2 7/8, 62L, weighs 15.2 lbs or 6.9kg). Right now I can pop up, surf towards towards the beach or make a bottom turn and surf down the line (if the waves allow it, more on that below). Last October I was on a trip to Portugal and I didn't bring my own board. Most of the time I surfed a 7'0 softtop and I learned more about my stance, better turning techniques and a railgrab. It was there where I was able to try the FireWire Addance (6'10, 22 5/8, 3 1/16, 56.9L) for a few hours. The first things I noticed with the Addvance is how very light it is compared to my BIC (many of you will have a "duhhhh" moment now ) In the water it also felt light, agile and i could really feel it was shorter than my current board. So basically I fell in love

Waves
I surf in the Netherlands. The waves are mostly windswell, about 2-5ft high, short periods usually between 4 to 6 seconds, sometimes 7. It's nearly always choppy and messy. Maybe 2 or 3 days a year we have very clean surf with long lines, but those are unfortunately an exception. The waves in Portugal during my trip were a little higher, about 4-7ft, much cleaner and I really felt like I actually had some skills because everything went so much better and easier than at home. But yeah... that was a trip, I don't live there. Surfing in my country is quite a struggle, and many waves don't allow for surfing down the line because the line is too short (I don't know the right word for it, but you get it). But it's not impossible, I've seen photos and spoke to guys who can do really cool stuff on the waves here (but they surf for like 10 years)

Goal
When asking for advice about a new board, I think it's important to add what my goals and expectations are. I would like to improve my surfing in my own country, focussing more on turns and perhaps have a little more stability in the water during popup. I don't expect to be able to make extremely sharp turns and cutbacks, especially not at home. However, I do like to have a board on which I can learn to make some sort of cutbacks. And yes I realize I will probably need many surftrips for that, but that's OK. When I bought the BIC, I knew I was going to replace it at some point, but with the new board I want to be able to keep improving my skill on it for quite a while. Also, I do realize that skill doesn't come from a board but from just catching waves and improving, so I don't expect to be suddenly much better when I have another board.

So about the board... I'm refering to the FireWire Addvance because I surfed it and I really felt the difference. From what I read and heard, a fish would be good for the waves I'm surfing, for a shortboard I lack skill and waves. I can probably learn more on my BIC, but right now is a good time for me to buy a new board (financially). However, I'm open to other suggestions. I think with my skill, weight and waves I need something with let's say 55-60L volume. Budget-wise, well the Addvance is an expensive board and that's OK. I won't say I don't have a limit, but it's OK to pay some money for a good board.

Right... I hope you have enough information to give me some advice. Is this board a good choice for me? How do you think it will be in the waves which I described?

All thoughts and advice are more than welcome. Thank you!

Welcome to surfing, for where you are both in location and skill levels, do not even think of a fish, the advertising says one thing but the realities. They are great for more skilled surfers who can ride them using. Techniques of going rail to rail rapidly to use the uneven face to generate speed, less skilled surfers find the fish bog and do not have enough flotation to drive across flat section ( common in your type of wave).
I would suggest your next basic board be still in the range of 7'6" a Torq would be a better option as the lightness of the addvance would be jolted around by North Sea chop! You still need the length to give you the glide and do not be fooled , turning is about get your skills going, not getting a board that won't help you, the Torq or the longer FireWire will more than handle anything in the North Sea or your Portugal trips, but shorter will slow your progress at home.
I have placed your post in surf board advice, have areas of other similar questions here and you more understanding of what is said.

We have a couple members who surf in your area.....they favor larger boards and I’m sure at least Oldie will give you his 2c. The one size fits all board for your skill level and conditions is a longboard as far as I’m concerned. Maybe a bit shorter that 9’ but no less than 8’ I would say to get the most out of the waves you surf at your current level. It has been said here before but the addvance is for more advanced surfers than you who need help with paddling/tiredness from being geezers rather than a stable learning platform that you need.

Big H wrote: It has been said here before but the addvance is for more advanced surfers than you who need help with paddling/tiredness from being geezers rather than a stable learning platform that you need.

Yes, the Addvance tries to sell itself as a big volume board suitable for everyone, but its more a board for intermediate level surfers who want volume, rather than beginner/lower level surfers who want stability, wave catching and assistance (btw, 'intermediate' = able to turn both ways, do cutbacks etc; not 'able to catch waves and surf down the line). But it you get the 7'2 or 7'6 it may arguably be ok, just that there are better boards for what you want

A Torq funboard (maybe a modfish?) as jaffa suggested. Really any mini mal/egg type board.

You could also try a fat tailed board, which will help you with those weaker waves (the fat tail is 'pushed' by the wave better, helping you catch waves and also when standing). So if you are looking Firewire, then the Dominator may actually be a better choice. Or a 'nugget; shape. Having used a mccoy nugget (the ultimate fat tail!) I actually think it might be worth looking at the fat tail style of board, as they really do help pick up weaker waves without requiring a lot of length. In bigger more powerful waves its a bit of a handful, but in weak waves the tail can be really good.

Hi Raiz,

welcome to the Forum - maybe we can find an opportunity to surf together some time? It won't be this year though, as I had my last session in Scheveningen last Saturday. It was cold and messy as almost always, but what is worse - I severly hurt my shoulder, MRT on Thursday for further analysis

I also rode the Addvance and must concur with what has been said. In the weak NL waves, you need something that is a very good paddler. And while the Addvance has a lot of volume, it has the wrong shape for what you need. It is too rounded, has too much Nose rocker and a too thin nose. In good waves it gets going fast, and in the hand of a good surfer it will do fine. But you want to maximize your wave count in very weak waves. And part of a good paddler is wetted surface, and for that you need Lenghth and Width.

So I would go for a shape with a flatter rocker, straighter outline, wider tail, not shorter than 8 ft, and not less than 60l.

A great board for you could be the Fatum Buffer : http://fatumsurfboards.com/product/boards/buffer/

Fatum is a very cool and helpful team even to beginners - give them a ring or do a first inquiry per email. They will be able to tailor one to exactly what you need at competitive prices. If you look for more durability - you will see many Torqs at European Beaches, and many good surfers on them.

Heartbeach in Scheveningen has many boards on offer since Saturday - if you happen to be in that area, have a look.

There you are local knowledge, nothing better , thanks Oldie

Oldie wrote:I severly hurt my shoulder, MRT on Thursday for further analysis

That doesn't sounds good, what happened? Good luck with recovery!

The north sea boys , connecting all round, heal well Oldie, don’t get blown off the island Tudeo and I won’t freeze my bits off in Austria.
And Raiz you have a team advising you. Glücklich !

THANK YOU for all your thoughts and advice!

I'm happy to see you're all being honest, but at the same time quite surprised about your opinions Looks like I have to gather more information.

Everywhere I read "a fish is good for weaker and mushy waves" so that's how I got into that direction. I actually have been looking at a Torq mod fish but it has quite less volume than the Addvance so that's why I removed it from my list. And I thought, a lot of volume in the Addvance, that's good for the weaker waves.

Right anyway, I'll look further into this, thanks again

@oldie: I'm always happy to meet new people surfing! I usually surf in Hoek van Holland but Scheveningen isn't that much further away. It's usually crowded though get well soon, I hope your shoulder heals fast! Just give me a shout when you're going out again and we'll see if we can go together

Raiz wrote:Everywhere I read "a fish is good for weaker and mushy waves" so that's how I got into that direction.

A "Fish" IS good ( and better ) for weak mushy waves .......... COMPARED to a standard shortboard. It's for riders that know how ride rail to rail.
But just because a surfboard has a Swallow Tail, doesn't mean it's a fish. The Firewire Addvance is NOT a fish. And usually anything bigger than 6'0" is not a fish ( it more like a Whale ).

waikikikichan wrote:

Raiz wrote:Everywhere I read "a fish is good for weaker and mushy waves" so that's how I got into that direction.

A "Fish" IS good ( and better ) for weak mushy waves .......... COMPARED to a standard shortboard. It's for riders that know how ride rail to rail.
But just because a surfboard has a Swallow Tail, doesn't mean it's a fish. The Firewire Addvance is NOT a fish. And usually anything bigger than 6'0" is not a fish ( it more like a Whale ).

Well basically a whale is a .... no wait, it's not

But yeah ok whow, I'm kinda surprised by myself how I missed this... it's better compared to a shortboard, I never thought of it that way lol. Eye opener here! Still so much to learn..

Tudeo wrote:

Oldie wrote:I severly hurt my shoulder, MRT on Thursday for further analysis

That doesn't sounds good, what happened? Good luck with recovery!

Nothing spectacular - paddling for a wave after about 1h in the water, I had a very sudden, extremly intense pain in the left shoulder after which I could not paddle anymore and also could not get up at all. That continued to hurt a lot for two days even when sitting and under heavy pain killers. Under Ultrasound, you could only see that I have a very swollen Bursa. I got an injection into the shoulder yesterday and take some medicine, but now we need to find the cause. I just hope nothing is torn and no operation is needed. I had a shoulder operation 7 years ago on the other side after a heavy skiiing accident (grade V AC joint dislocation) - that never recovered fully.

Thanks for the best wishes!

Raiz, you have avital ingredient that help a lot, sense of humour!

Unscrupulous surf shop often will hold a bias towards selling you their most profitable board, and unless they look outside the advertising blurb you will end up with something totally unsuitable.
Things to consider length shape rail shape, tailshape, fins fin size, and volume ( which has become a groovy selling point)
Nothing paddles as well as a long board paddles if it is short!, width doesn’t make up for that.
Surfing goes through fashion trends, like retro! Readdressing shapes that most surfers progressed beyond 20 years ago.
If you are good enough the variants work but for most they discover why those type of boards became obsolete!

Poor waves need , longer boards, more flotation, .
Read up well surf a lot, get to the better beaches, away from the North Sea and warm water surf trips there on better boards and you will improve.

i reckon drop the volume down. you riding 55 litres or so, which is too much. even for rubbish waves. with your background with water and paddle power to ratio i reckon you could ride 45 litres.

i'm 33 and 84ish kgs. i taught myself on a 6'10 minimal 45 litres. i started on a 31L shortboard which wasted a few weekends, and then bought a pu rincon board for 400 brand new which was pretty decent to be fair.

don't get a board with too much rocker, and maybe stick to pu. get a small wave board with lots of volume or groveler. the pu stops you feeling all the chop, but in small waves i like epoxy because it has that get up and go feel.

you must get a storm swell 4-10 times a year surely? if not, you are one of the unluckiest men on the planet haha.. move away from that place I tellya, to where there are atleast surfable waves....

#chasetheswell #surfislife #kookcitygang

one0one wrote:i reckon drop the volume down. you riding 55 litres or so, which is too much. even for rubbish waves. with your background with water and paddle power to ratio i reckon you could ride 45 litres.

Why is 55L too much volume? Too much for what?

Just because someone made a mistake it does not mean it is a template for others.

And this is the North Sea. Just look on a map. Pure weak windswell soup. Britain blocks all ground swell and it is very shallow on top. A very good day is 2-3 ft at a 6s period with 10mp onshore wind. Higher waves only with more onshore wind. Mostly you get shorter periods. Max 5 days per year with decent waves and no onshore wind.

https://magicseaweed.com/Scheveningen-Nord-Surf-Report/145/

Raiz wrote:..right now is a good time for me to buy a new board (financially). However, I'm open to other suggestions.

Do like me, move to Bali and then buy an Addvance 606

Thanks again for all the new feedback

I've been riding an 8'0 softie last weekend and it was actually pretty fun! It was less wide and heavy than the (usual?) surf school boards, so I might pick one up for the small wave days as an extra board.

What's your opinion about the following boards:
Hypto Krypto 6'8
Torq mod fish 6'10 (got an offer for a 2nd hand)

still too short?

I'm kinda curious to know what the difference is, in terms of how easy it is to catch waves, between a longer and a shorter board with the same volume. Can you guys talk about that a little bit more?

Thanks again

Hi Raiz,

In summer 16 in France I rode a beautiful, light and nimble Firewire Addvance 7.6 (I am old, big and heavy) at 70l vs an old, heavy and beat up BIC Magnum 8.4 at 71l (and later an 8.4 CI Waterhog). I had most direct comparison between the Addvance and the BIC.

It was not even a competition. The BIC was soo much easier catch waves with and so much easier to ride, it was really astonishing. But looking at the difference in Surface and Shape, it is less surprising:



Why make it more difficult for yourselves than needed? Do you want to look cool with the board under your arm?

Volume for most surfers is a shop stimulation marketing tool, lighter faster shaped to fit curves of wave that you won’t catch or if you do be incapable of riding, guys ride amazing waves on Alaias just wood flotation and next to no volume...... it is the rider not the board.

Historically, in 1956 when American lifeguards came to,Australia for historic surf displays associated with the Melbourne Olympics , they brought the balsa Malibu chip, Australia surfers were riding 16ft paddleboards, disturbed the whole downunder surf culture.
The point being if it does ride well,for you it is not suitable.
Get over the sales pitch of volume, look at rails profile thickness shape over the length.
Every board sold is sold as thanswer to you becoming a surf god...... realise your weaknesses and your depth of skills, choose your boards to enhance that. Good riders can ride anything average riders need boards that enhance what they can do.
Skill up then come down in size or volume, crappy waves, lacking power and shape stay longer, the whole North Sea flat Coast needs that.
Oldie knows, he surfs there. So buy what looks good = kook with nice board, buy what surfs well. = improving each surf!
Reverse Japanese surf image. ( that being , have all the latest shiny and new, look the part , the rest doesn’t matter).