Surfing Waves

Hello everyone,

I’m new to this forum and was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on buying my first surfboard please? I would really like to invest in a board as rental fees are adding up.

I’m a 29-year-old, 5’2”, 49kg girl and I’ve been surfing more seriously in the past year.

I guess I’ve been surfing up to 3ft waves? I’ve been mostly surfing reef breaks in the Philippines.

I rented a NSP Epoxy 7’6” board during my last two long trips there. It was very stable, but sometimes it felt a little too big and heavy (possibly due to water in the board? It had many dings). It was difficult for me to turn and my instructor also noted that the board was probably a little big/wide for me (I think it was about 22” wide) which was affecting my paddle. I have ridden a 6'8" before and that was ok too.

I am able to catch my own waves if my timing is right. I could definitely work on my paddle power though. I guess my fitness level is considered average or slightly above? haha

A few weeks ago, someone asked me to try his 6’ x 19" x 2 3/8” board to get a feel of a smaller board. Paddling out was fine, but catching waves was a different story! I only almost caught 2 waves... I’m not too sure what the volume was.

A friend in the Philippines said that I should be able to ride his 5’10” x 19 1/2 x 2 3/4 board, I just have to get used to it. After trying a 6' board I'm not too sure if a 5'10" is too small. Unfortunately I won’t be able to try the board anytime soon.

Basically, right now I’m more confused about what length I should get… is a 6' – 6'4" board ok if I have the volume and width? Should I worry less about the length and more about the volume? After some research it seems as if a volume of 35-39L is ok for me? Too much/too little?

As for the shape, a rounder nose and tail is better?

Any advice would be much appreciated I will be going to Bali soon and was thinking of buying a secondhand board from there if I find one that suits me.

Thank you very much! I’m sorry for the super long post!

Depends on your current skill level and the wave conditions. If you can trim down the line already, 7’-7’6” x 21”-21 1/2” x 3” funshape would be easy to paddle and catch waves. It would be stable once riding yet plenty maneuverable for turning. If you are going straight to shore, close to 8’ might be good. I’m about the same size as you and started on a 9’ log that I still ride most of the time so don’t be afraid of larger boards. If you want something short, stick with something wide and thick like 6’6”- 7’ x 21” x 3” not your friend’s potato chip board. Otherwise you wouldn’t be able to catch any waves.

shespider wrote:Should I worry less about the length and more about the volume? After some research it seems as if a volume of 35-39L is ok for me? Too much/too little?

Get something at least / around 2 feet over your head until you can turn frontside and backside. Forget about volume. If the boards 7'6"ish x 21-22" x 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 ( and not full of water ) it will have enough volume. I am 5'2" also and my boards are over 22" wide and can paddle no problem.

YOU are not ready for a 6 foot board. Your shortboarder friends advise to ride a 5'10" - 6'0" , will NOT help you learn to surf.

Thank you for your advice, saltydog and waikikikichan!

Yes, I can feel that I'm not ready for a 6' and most definitely not a 5'10!
I'll take your advice on trying a 6'6" – 7' board and see how it goes while I'm there!

Hello again! I just thought I would post a follow up, incase it could help anyone with the same question.

In March, I ordered an epoxy 6'10" x 22" x 2 7/8 mini mal/funboard from a local shaper in Bali (Rockwell). I initially ordered a 7'2" but after chatting for a bit, he said the volume in a 6'10" would be ok if we keep the width and thickness the same. After some contemplation, I decided to go for it.

Since I was transitioning from a 7'6", it took me a number of sessions to get use to the new size, but the lack of water in the board helped me save a lot of energy when I was transporting the board to the breaks and paddling out. Plus a lighter board is safer for a kook like me.

Anyway, after more sessions in the water, I am happy to say we are getting along I'm very happy with my first board!

Thanks for your advice! It definitely helped with my decision making. I would also recommend Rockwell if anyone is looking for a shaper in Bali.

Thanks for getting back to us (most people don’t ).

I also have a board that is exactly 6’10 x 22 x 2 7/8 - although I’m 85kg and 6’3 so not quite the same size surfer! In any case, with that volume and width they are easy to pick up waves (even for a heavyweight like me) and pretty stable, but are sort of manoeuvrable esp if you get your foot back over the fins (a tail pad works well for me). Sounds like a good choice

shespider wrote: I would also recommend Rockwell if anyone is looking for a shaper in Bali.

Rockwell is good; I had a board from him and it was a good shape and was strong. His boards are light as well which probably is a plus for you but why I sold mine; I found I like a little more weight. Just talking about Rockwell a couple days ago with another longtime Bail resident transplanted from Europe.....we were taking about good local shapers and his name came up......the guy I was talking with said he was in Skeleton Bay (youtube it....amazing looking wave) and he came across two guys on Rockwell boards. And on top of it he's super affordable....good choice!

https://www.surfer.com/videos/best-wave ... leton-bay/

dtc wrote:Thanks for getting back to us (most people don’t ).

I also have a board that is exactly 6’10 x 22 x 2 7/8 - although I’m 85kg and 6’3 so not quite the same size surfer! In any case, with that volume and width they are easy to pick up waves (even for a heavyweight like me) and pretty stable, but are sort of manoeuvrable esp if you get your foot back over the fins (a tail pad works well for me). Sounds like a good choice

Nice! Yup, it's perfectly floaty for my size and weight. It initially felt a bit 'fast' and unstable compared to the waterlogged boards I was using, but it feels good now

Big H wrote:

shespider wrote: I would also recommend Rockwell if anyone is looking for a shaper in Bali.

Rockwell is good; I had a board from him and it was a good shape and was strong. His boards are light as well which probably is a plus for you but why I sold mine; I found I like a little more weight. Just talking about Rockwell a couple days ago with another longtime Bail resident transplanted from Europe.....we were taking about good local shapers and his name came up......the guy I was talking with said he was in Skeleton Bay (youtube it....amazing looking wave) and he came across two guys on Rockwell boards. And on top of it he's super affordable....good choice!

https://www.surfer.com/videos/best-wave ... leton-bay/

Wow, that is an amazing wave. Thanks for sharing, I will have to YouTube more videos of Skeleton Bay later! Awesome to hear his boards are travelling the world. The board's lightness has definitely been a plus for me.

I agree, Rockwell's prices are very affordable. I contacted a few local shapers before deciding to order from him. His prices fit my budget and I felt very comfortable communicating with him. Overall, I'm happy with my decision