Surfing Waves

I've been surfing about 6 weeks whenever there are waves (sometimes that's once a week, sometimes 3 times). The waves are usually about 2-3.5' now, rarely bigger.

So far I've been riding an 8' softboard (I'd guess around 70 L) that I rent but I want to buy a board because, a) it's a waste of money to keep renting when I know I'm gonna surf, and b) the softy gives me an awful rash on my thighs and chest (despite wearing a rashguard).

I definitely lean more towards a longboard style than a performance style.

***My question is, is a 7.4' x 22 x 2 3/4, 44 L PU board going to be too much of a struggle? I'm 30, reasonably fit, 6'1", 70 kg.***

It's a coin toss as to whether I have no problem popping up and riding green waves. Some days are good, some days are less-so! When they're good, I can turn and properly ride if I get my take-off angle right.

I'd rather not buy a softy cos I don't have too much money and the price difference between the softy and this PU board isn't so significant, and also having to carry it to and from the sea each time (about a 20 min walk). But I'm worried that the volume/length of this board is too small and that I'll struggle to ride, and that will take the fun away.

Thanks!!!

sc17 wrote:
***My question is, is a 7.4' x 22 x 2 3/4, 44 L PU board going to be too much of a struggle? I'm 30, reasonably fit, 6'1", 70 kg

I'd rather not buy a softy cos I don't have too much money and the price difference between the softy and this PU board isn't so significant, and also having to carry it to and from the sea each time (about a 20 min walk). But I'm worried that the volume/length of this board is too small and that I'll struggle to ride, and that will take the fun away.

Thanks!!!

Your gut feeling is correct; you'll do better at this stage on a bigger board. 20 min walk is cake; relish the fitness benefits while toting a 9' board.

Big H wrote:
Your gut feeling is correct; you'll do better at this stage on a bigger board. 20 min walk is cake; relish the fitness benefits while toting a 9' board.

Thanks! Is that because of the length or the volume? The streets can be pretty chaotic so I'd rather not be walking with a 9' longboard

Both length and volume. Not much difference in terms of carrying a board that is 7 1/2' vs 9'.....you're blocking traffic either way. Put the fitness aspect out of your mind (besides, surf fit is an entirely different ball of wax)....to learn to surf at your age you need the expanded margins of error in positioning that a longer board will give you if you are going as infrequently as you are and considering you are only 6 weeks in.

Apparently you have your eye on that specific 7.4" board....I would not get that board to learn on. Could be a good second board depending on the shape (the wider than average width would make me believe that it could be a good second board, but other considerations go into it as well including rocker and plan shape). I have 4 boards over 8', 3 over 9'.....you don't outgrow longboards. Get one and use that as the cornerstone of your budding quiver.

I walk down the street here in Indo with my longboards and manage.....willing to bet we've got you beat on the crazy traffic.....at least you'll be easy to see! A lot of beginners who come here asking for advice look on longboards as limiting or a badge of shame.......in the lineup a few months ago I overheard a girl complain to another in the surf camp group she was with that everyone could see how crap she was at surfing just by looking at the size of her longboard! In that same lineup there were several pale & sunburnt tourists who couldn't buy a wave and just bobbed around on their short boards that were undersized for their skill as evidenced by the fact that they weren't able to get any waves. The "crap" surfing girl I noticed took more waves than the bobbers by a wide margin...................who would you rather be?

Big H wrote:Both length and volume. Not much difference in terms of carrying a board that is 7 1/2' vs 9'.....you're blocking traffic either way. Put the fitness aspect out of your mind (besides, surf fit is an entirely different ball of wax)....to learn to surf at your age you need the expanded margins of error in positioning that a longer board will give you if you are going as infrequently as you are and considering you are only 6 weeks in.

Apparently you have your eye on that specific 7.4" board....I would not get that board to learn on. Could be a good second board depending on the shape (the wider than average width would make me believe that it could be a good second board, but other considerations go into it as well including rocker and plan shape). I have 4 boards over 8', 3 over 9'.....you don't outgrow longboards. Get one and use that as the cornerstone of your budding quiver.

I walk down the street here in Indo with my longboards and manage.....willing to bet we've got you beat on the crazy traffic.....at least you'll be easy to see! A lot of beginners who come here asking for advice look on longboards as limiting or a badge of shame.......in the lineup a few months ago I overheard a girl complain to another in the surf camp group she was with that everyone could see how crap she was at surfing just by looking at the size of her longboard! In that same lineup there were several pale & sunburnt tourists who couldn't buy a wave and just bobbed around on their short boards that were undersized for their skill as evidenced by the fact that they weren't able to get any waves. The "crap" surfing girl I noticed took more waves than the bobbers by a wide margin...................who would you rather be?

Cheers! I have no problem with longboards at all, I love the surfing style and see my 'surfing future' more likely on something longer than shorter. My main concern is budget and weight (I've been looking for a 2nd hand longboard near me but the best offer I've had was ~$1000 for a lovely 8.6', which was beyond my budget), cos it's easier to up and go to the beach when the board is lighter, and hurts less when it hits you!

The board I described earlier seemed to fit those criteria well, and would also fit in my car without needing to buy a roof rack (budget, again), so I want to really make sure that's not a good choice board

I really appreciate the advice and discussion Big H! The couple times I went into a store they were (semi-understandably?) more concerned with selling me *anything* than advising me on something that actually fits where I'm at

Also, the previously mentioned board is a minimal, not a sharp-nosed performance board

Too short for you at this stage!

Don't make Jaffa tell the story of how he walked 5 miles each way to the beach through Australian snows with his board at 9 years old! LOL Seriously though, surfing is a very physical activity....you want to get better at it look on the 20min walk with the board as a component to building a better surfing you and your body will thank you for it. Get an epoxy board, they are lighter, but in the end, it is only a surfboard and 20min is a yawn. Look for used boards, either in shops or Craigslist or other used buy and sell outlet.

You've sold me. Any difference at my stage whether it's single-fin? Pros/cons?

Big H wrote:Too short for you at this stage!

Don't make Jaffa tell the story of how he walked 5 miles each way to the beach through Australian snows with his board at 9 years old! LOL Seriously though, surfing is a very physical activity....you want to get better at it look on the 20min walk with the board as a component to building a better surfing you and your body will thank you for it. Get an epoxy board, they are lighter, but in the end, it is only a surfboard and 20min is a yawn. Look for used boards, either in shops or Craigslist or other used buy and sell outlet.

Nah sandstorms , the walk in the snow was a lot longer