Surfing Waves

Hi all, I'm looking for some advice because I don't really know what to buy. I'm a 6'4" 178 lbs guy, and am very fit. I've been surfing for around 3 years on a 7'0 "big guy short board", but it's definitely not a shortboard. I'm looking to buy a brand new board that I can use for years to come, but I don't know what to transition into. Also I'd definitely want a board I can duck dive, as getting out the back with the 7 on bigger days is not the best experience. I surf almost every day, water time is not an issue. Thank you for any advice you all have for me!! Will definitely appeciate it.

What kind of waves do you surf eg size, location (reef, beach)

Is there any reason why you arent just looking at a standard short board that is a bit bigger (6'5 or so); or what about something like the hypto krypto (or any of its many imitators)

I'm 5'2" 127lbs un-fit and can duck dive my 6'4" NSP Fish which is molded-epoxy ( which equates to even more float ). So you should be able to duck dive a 6'5" like DTC said.

"A board you can use for years to come" ? As your skills improve and you venture to different waves, you'll need change ( again ) to a different board ( and build up a quiver ). Don't be stuck on that one board to last you mentality ( unless you live on a desert island ).

dtc wrote:What kind of waves do you surf eg size, location (reef, beach)

Is there any reason why you arent just looking at a standard short board that is a bit bigger (6'5 or so); or what about something like the hypto krypto (or any of its many imitators)

I surf at a beach break in San Francisco where the wave size really ranges between 2-10 feet, gets bigger than that but it's impossible to paddle out. I had no idea where to start or what to first look at, so thanks. Would the 7'0 to a 6'5 jump have a big learning curve?

Djamboo wrote:I surf at a beach break in San Francisco where the wave size really ranges between 2-10 feet, gets bigger than that but it's impossible to paddle out. I had no idea where to start or what to first look at, so thanks. Would the 7'0 to a 6'5 jump have a big learning curve?

Learning curve - for sure. Its not just things like it being shorter, its things like a narrower nose = less stability; lower volume and thinner makes it harder to catch waves and (often forgotten) means you may have to create your own speed on the wave rather than let the wave do all the work. Less margin for error in terms of positioning - positioning for the wave, position of your feet on pop up, position of you on the board when paddling, timing of pop up.

whether that difference is too much I cant tell. It will be there; if you are comfortable on your 7ft and have a lot of water time, then it shouldnt be that hard to transition within a few months. Which means, at the start, instead of catching every wave you go for and not falling off, you might be catching 50% of waves and falling off 50% of the time you catch them.. But you will improve

Given the waves you surf, I suggest maybe a 6'4 or 6'6 board and not a fish [nb: a swallowtail is fine - just not a traditional fish ie wide and flat). Not a highly rockered or sharp pointed nose, something a bit more rounded, more stable, higher volume.

I would look in the 'hybrid' range of the various makers. For example, I quickly scanned the Lost site and V3 Rocket or the Quiver Killer would be the type of board I'm thinking about (note: I dont recommend - or not recommend - Lost. It just happened to be the first site I thought of. There are heaps and heaps of other similar choices). Although at 6'6 these boards are still fairly chunky/high volume, so duck diving may still be an issue ie maybe look at these shapes, rockers, tails etc and find something a bit thinner; or take the plunge and go a bit shorter. Or eat more!