Surfing Waves

I glanced through a number of posts here which discuss the best options for various types of waves and surfers. There's so many variables depending on your ability and the type of waves you ride, so my comments here are probably aimed at a specific type of surfer, i.e. older beginner/intermediates, people (like me) who don't get to surf often, etc.
What I've learnt from 40 years of surfing is you have to base a board shape/dimensions on what works for you, not what's popular or what works for others. Luckily machine shapes are fairly accurate, so if you have to replace a gem, a machine duplicate isn't a complete hit and miss as it used to be with hand shapes.

I found a lot of surfers get hoaxed into surfing odd shapes like retro fishes, eggs, etc. I know there's many surfers who actually enjoy the whole retro thing and aren't into high performance, but if you want a board which complements or improves your surfing, get a traditional tried and tested high performance shape.
I went from surfing competitively and freesurfing a lot to surfing only a few times a month (since about 2010). So now I'm in a place where I'm unfit and feel like a complete kook, but on a wave my head tells me to do things I can't anymore. I've tried all kinds of boards in the last six years and found the worst boards for my surfing are the retro fishes and other wide/short/odd shapes. Sure you get heaps of speed and it's easy paddling, but decent carving is sacrificed. If you're an older beginner/intermediate or someone who doesn't get in the water much, hands down the best option is to take a high performance shape and ad some width and/or meat. Perhaps some trial and error to get the right formula, but so much better for your surfing if you want to move ahead or maintain a decent level. Not saying you shouldn't have some fun shapes in your quiver, but don't expect those to do much for your surfing.

I'm about 85kg, 6' and now mostly surf short boards between 5'11 - 6'1 x 19 (to 19 1/4) x 2 1/2. The width in the nose and tail is only slightly more than an average high performance board. 19 1/2 wide would be good of we often surfed chest/waist high waves, but we hardly do.
I used to ride 6'1 - 6'2 x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8 (with narrower nose/tail and tucked rails). Tried an old one the other day which was stored in my garage. What I noticed was that I had to work a lot harder on the wave, which actually resulted in a few of the best vert turns I've done in years, but the rest of the session was such hard work, not sure it was worth it.

I think, though, that there is a major difference between good surfers who are unfit, and people who learnt at an older age (whether fit or not).

Not to mention that retro boards can be cruisy fun.

Right you are, dtc. Retro's and odd shapes can be super fun, but my point is if you want to advance they're not a good option. Wave quality permitting, I reckon even older surfers who started late will do better on the right "semi high performance" board. It's all about volume.

DH70 wrote:What I've learnt from 40 years of surfing is you have to base a board shape/dimensions on what works for you, not what's popular or what works for others.

I agree with this much of what you said.....there are lots of different kinds of waves, lots of different kinds of people after all kinds of different experiences....I am just a little bigger than you and wouldn't be able to keep up with the sweep a lot of days on a potato chip like you ride. It would be a long paddle out to some of the reefs on a little board like that for me.

I think because I find some boards to work I expect others my size and age might but that isn't true as often as not. People want a different experience out of surfing. For some people it is just about cruising along and enjoying being in the water. I particularly enjoy being challenged and want to push my limits but not fall down too much. I am bored by cruising and always enjoy being in the water regardless of the conditions. I really get a kick out of doing a powerful turn. I used to surf on what might be considered retro boards but were the usual thing however I have learned to surf a quad and a thruster and have no intention of learning to do a single fin again. It's different for everyone. What I like might change in the future but it's been steady for a while. I still somehow can't understand why everyone doesn't want boards like mine because they bring me so much pleasure LOL

A beginner/intermediate surfer with 40 years of experience and can do vertical snaps is not a ......... beginner/intermediate.

But yes, i do understand what your intentions are. But times have changed since 40 years ago. Kelly Slater's boards have changed. You were probably competing during the time of the 18" wide potato chip rocker ships. ( everyone followed the pied piper down that damn road ). Then later the 90's rebirth of cool with the longboard resurgence. Then they the retro fish, then the 70's singles, then the Tomo "what the hell is that ?" future shapes. Now the current trend of Mid-ships and the Asymetricals.

OMS didn't learn on a longboard, because they weren't any at the time. I learned on a 11 foot 4" thick Waikiki rental board, cause that's all I could borrow. Now there's Costco Wavestorm sponge boards and strong durable Molded-epoxy boards with removable fins for newbies not to get (as) hurt on. Things change and sometimes things come back around. ( waiting for the bell bottoms to come back )

BUT .....One thing that has stayed the same throughout the age of surfing is the............. WAVE. Learn the wave and the motion of the ocean and you'll be a better surfing "whatever" it is you ride on.

A beginner/intermediate surfer with 40 years of experience and can do vertical snaps is not a ......... beginner/intermediate.

I either worded it incorrectly or you misunderstood:) I'm super unfit and don't surf much (1-2 short sessions a week), but still advanced level....quality of the waves permitting. I competed up to 2008, then gradually tapered off my amount of water time, but kept in touch with the latest trends. And that's all they are....trends! The basic high performance design used by pros hasn't changed drastically. Clearly it's a winning formula, so what I'm saying here is that an intermediate or higher level weekend warrior like myself will benefit a lot more from having a fuller design based on a high performance board. I reckon an older beginner should have the minimal, big fish type board to learn on, but certainly also a bigger high performance shape, preferably with someone around to give them pointers.

So DH70 were you a pro level or amateur level surfer? Just curious I used to surf with lots of guys who probably could have competed amateur level but had no interest in doing so. I knew a couple guys who were breaking into the pro level but never made it to the world tour. I wasn't that level but I could surf the same waves they could and get good rides. Obviously the pro boards are good for surfing but even then they don't all use the same boards however as you pointed out probably a beginner won't be able to utilize a pro board. Board selection is so complex because there are so many factors that go into what is the best board for a particular surfer without even taking into account different waves.

DH70 wrote: If you're an older beginner/intermediate or someone who doesn't get in the water much, hands down the best option is to take a high performance shape and ad some width and/or meat.

DH70 wrote:I either worded it incorrectly or you misunderstood:)

I think you worded it clearly. As I understood from the post, if you have some experience, older, unfit and doesn't get opportunities to surf as much anymore, a fuller high performance board is recommended. But what is not clear is Beginners ( and even most Intermediates ) are not able to do Vertical Snaps like yourself.

DH70 wrote: I know there's many surfers who actually enjoy the whole retro thing and aren't into high performance,

But what is high performance ? I think everyone wants to do plain Surfing, which is Bottom Turns, Cutbacks, Floaters, Pumping for Speed, and maybe a little cover up. "Higher" Performance maneuvers might be Snaps, Fin outs carves, Airs, Barrels, and riding monster waves. I think the "retro" shapes are more "proven" as shapers have gone back to their old templates and found they work. If a Fish, Egg or Hybrid allows a surfer to do bottom turns, cutbacks, etc. versus Huntington hops on a Shortboard, isn't it more power to them ( literally ).

DH70 wrote: The basic high performance design used by pros hasn't changed drastically. Clearly it's a winning formula, so what I'm saying here is that an intermediate or higher level weekend warrior like myself will benefit a lot more from having a fuller design based on a high performance board. I reckon an older beginner should have the minimal, big fish type board to learn on, but certainly also a bigger high performance shape, preferably with someone around to give them pointers.

"The basic high performance design used by pros" can be equated to other sports F1 cars, MotoGp, Downhill MTB, World cup sailing, etc. What the "Pros" use is for ........"Pros". A professional roofer's nail gun is over kill for me making a bird house. But like trickle down technology, say MotoGP's suspension and brakes now appear on "Street" bikes you and me can purchase at the dealer, we can take designs from higher performance board and tune them for less advance riders. Like you recommended De-tuning a high performance Pro shortbaord giving it some width and thickness but keeping the over rocker, rails and contours.
What is not clear from you first post is you said for "beginner/intermediate", of which I didn't agree with. For the above post " intermediate or higher level weekend warrior like myself "( former competitor able to do vertical snaps ), I can agree with a de-tuned shortboard.

I think any "Beginner" should be on a board 2-3 foot over their head until they can turn left and right. Getting into the 6'6" range, would be later on. Also it also depends on what you think a Intermediate is ? For me a Intermediate is someone who can basically do half of what a normal level surfer can do. Also the area/location differs. A beginner in Hawaii is much different than a beginner in Japan. So that's where we can confused terminology.

oldmansurfer, to be honest, I never enjoyed contests and did amateur events only because my friends were doing it and it lined me up with sponsors, so it never crossed my mind to make a career out of it. I much preferred freesurfing away from the crowd and sponsors were more than happy with that. As you mentioned, there's so many good surfers all over the world who have or had potential to compete or turn pro, but didn't. That's probably why there's so many brazil nuts on tour, they grow up in an overly competitive environment and they're hands down the most amped to get results. If Oz, US, etc had the same overboard competitive culture, I'm sure we'd see heaps more top pros emerge. But I'm glad that's not the case:) (population with an obsessive competitive mindset that is...)

Waikikikichan, you're right, the terms beginner and intermediate varies depending on where you are. I think SA's level of surfing is relatively high, so an intermediate here gets their fins out once in a while:)

At the end of the day board choice is personal, however people do get sucked into trends which aren't necessarily the best option.