Surfing Waves

I have too many boards. i know it. And I think it's holding back my progression. I'm a middle-aged, novice that's been surfing for a couple years, but not often enough - maybe once a week when work and family allow for it. Twice a week if I'm lucky. 6' 195 lbs. I'm in average shape, i guess. mostly surf steep, pitchy beach break in california. occasionally, i surf a point.

Can you guys please give me some advice on how and when to choose the right board vs maybe just sticking with one, maybe 2 boards until i progress to a certain point? I currently have: a 9'2" pretty user-friendly hull, and 8'5" double enda, a 7'8" single fin egg, and a 7' quad fish. And i'm considering getting a log for really small days.

appreciate any thoughts/questions/insights you guys have.

gracias!

Which is your favourite and why? Which is your least favourite? What do you have each board for? What can you do on a wave/ can't you do yet? Your post is a little vague; be a little more specific about what your worry is and why it's not being addressed. My feeling is that the answer is in you already; just need a little introspection into the matter.

Which board works for you for most of the days you surf? Stick with that one but have a backup next best board maybe one that you can ride smaller waves with and one that you can ride bigger waves with but both ride the surf you most often encounter well enough. It is such a personal thing as to what type of board. I use custom made funboards but I am not a longboarder and too old and don't surf enough to be a shortboarder. You do have to learn to ride each board you get and if you keep switching that will slow down your learning and surfing once a week makes the process long enough without that extra time spent learning to use each board.

cleicht wrote:I have too many boards. i know it. And I think it's holding back my progression.

Your "progression" to what ? To cutback ? To noseride ? To advancing from being a Novice ? Your need to have a goal to figure what direction you need to take the first step ( and second and third ) to.
Seems you bought all the "flavors of the month" surfboards fads for beginner-intermediates of the past few years. You got 2+1. singles, quads, you name it for fin configurations, but how's YOUR bottom turn ?

sincere thanks for the reply, guys. here are some answers...

big h:

i like all of them for different reasons. the larger ones are easier to get into waves, but are a litte tougher to get out when it's bigger.

my worry is that i'm concerned about what i can do on one board versus another, but in reality, the difference is probably mostly in my head. i do pretty much the same thing on all the boards, though i can feel some differences on each. ie. the quad fish turns much easier than, say, the long hull.

at a point, i can pop up, sometimes carve a decent bottom turn, get down the line, and cruise up and down the face a little. at my local beachie, i can pop up, get down the line (mostly frontside), and that's about it because things are steep, pitchy, waves are hard to read, and they don't last very long because i'm always in the wrong spot.

oldmansurfer:
this makes a lot of sense. thanks. my instinct is to to stick to the longer board at points, and to surf either the egg or the fish at beach breaks. and stick with it to progress.

waikikikichan:
thank you. i don't have any aspirations to go vertical and spray foam everywhere. right now i'd settle for being competent enough to surf most conditions at my local beach break. mellow cruisey glide, finding the power in the wave vs trying to make my own. i'd like to have a solid, consistent, bottom turn, frontside and backside, be able to cut back, and stay on a wave for much longer than i currently am. eventually, i would love to learn how to noseride in the right conditions.

i wouldn't necessarily consider any of my boards fad boards. but i'm no expert. they're all well made boards from respected local shapers that have been hand shaping these designs for years and years. i don't own a 2+1, but my guess is it probably would help in the steep, pitchy beach break. and that's my 'problem!' i'm really interested in board design and creation, so i overthink details that are probably beyond my skill level. to your point, my bottom turn? i would say it's crappy and inconsistent. i think your saying i should focus on that instead. you're right! i just don't which board should be under my feet! haha.

thank you guys all for your time and insight. much appreciated.

cleicht wrote: and they don't last very long because i'm always in the wrong spot.

Then it is YOU that is in the wrong spot. It's wont matter 9'2" or 7'6" single or quad, it's not the boards fault. YOU need to improve Position and Timing to become a better surfer. Power, I am not sure how your paddling is, but Position and Timing are more important.

cleicht wrote:i wouldn't necessarily consider any of my boards fad boards. but i'm no expert. they're all well made boards from respected local shapers that have been hand shaping these designs for years and years. i don't own a 2+1, but my guess is it probably would help in the steep, pitchy beach break. and that's my 'problem!' i'm really interested in board design and creation, so i overthink details that are probably beyond my skill level. to your point, my bottom turn? i would say it's crappy and inconsistent. i think your saying i should focus on that instead. you're right! i just don't which board should be under my feet! haha. .

Your well respected local shapers made you well shaped "trendy" boards of the last few years. Re-birth of cool longboards, Mid-length not a longboard but not a shortboard, Fish ( but more a whale ), Retro single and new school quad. ( if you were a shortboarder, you would currently be riding the Hypto Krypto trend and have a carbon strip down the stringer ) I thought your 9'2" was a 2+1 like most.
If you can't backside bottom turn, then you should stick to one board until you can. BUT..... if your surf crappy dumping beach break with no face, there's no board that's going to help.
You might think I'm joking but you might want to invest in another board....... a $120 Costco 8'0' Wavestorm. It'll help you go for it in beach break. It'll help you feel the wave. It will SUCK at turning so you'll have to work with the wave more. It'll will make you realize it doesn't matter how much quality or how much you spend, it's up to the rider to make the board move. Then you can get back on your hard boards and appreciate them more.

this makes a lot of sense. thank you! i actually have a wavestorm, so maybe i'll spend the winter on it and focus on the basics. thanks for your time!