Surfing Waves

Hi there,

I just completed my third surfing course and I'm now able to comfortably catch white water waves, stand up and ride to shore. Works like 9 times out of 10.

The biggest thing holding me back right now is paddling out to the line up. I managed to catch about 3 green waves in the past 4 days but getting there was an excruciating effort. The actual surfing part seems like the smaller problem - when I managed to get there, I mostly managed to get the wave as well and ride it to shore.

I'm looking for a board that reduces the paddling effort to the absolute minimum. As long at it will allow me to learn the basic maneuvers (like bottom turns ...) I'm good. I actually like the classic 80s long boarding stuff a lot - but maybe 2016 has something more technologiacally advanced to offer.

Can you help me find something appropriate?

I'm 1.70m and weigh about 73kg.

Thanks guys!

You like the long boarding style, get a longboard, learn your beach, strengthen your paddling.

There isn't an easy way, 8 to 9 ft, longboard, nothing fancy 2+ 1 changeable fin set up. Learn about the beach feature that provide ways out.

Take your beatings handed out with a laugh and enjoy the journey

Once you get out the back your real surfing lessons begin, reading the wave, writing your way across the wave in response to the wave, the maths and trigonometry of positioning for the wave, recreational swimming.
Where you are in the real pecking order of the surf school yard bullies and all.

Take heart we all pass through and graduate!

CookieMcCookerton wrote:I'm looking for a board that reduces the paddling effort to the absolute minimum.

So basically you want to buy a baseball that easier to hit homeruns with ? No such thing. Paddling ( speed and endurance ) is on YOU, not the board. But I understand what you are saying. What you could have ask is " what boards are harder to paddle ?" Stay away from short(er) boards until you can turn backside. Don't get tempted to buy a shorter board so you can " duck dive " your way out to the waves.
You want a board that "easy" to paddle and catch waves. Those boards are big and floaty. But Big and floaty sometimes are hard to get out in stormy beach break. Increase your paddling technique and wave/ocean knowledge.

to expand on the above, all surfboards are a matter of trade offs. A particular design or size increases X but will decrease Y

for example, a board that is easy to paddle is a large thick board, which will float you above the water easily and maximise the effect of your paddle. But the downside is that you cant duckdive a big board, which means you have to make more effort to get out through the white water (or be more intelligent about getting out).

In any case, a board as Jaffa suggested suits a beginner for many reasons including paddling, but also wave catching, stability, ease of pop up, additional time to fix errors, greater margin of error etc - so as a beginner that is what you want

Wkk is exactly correct - paddling is you, not the board. Paddling is a not a normal activity, no one does it when they arent on a board so you wont be used to it and you wont be good at it and you will have no paddle specific fitness just from normal living. You can improve outside of surfing, particularly through swimming and to some extent through resistance exercise focusing on the lats, delts and triceps. But swimming is by far the best, albeit that paddling and swimming are not the same thing and even swimming a lot wont make you a great paddler - but it will make you a better paddler than not swimming

Thanks guys! I do realise there's no easy way out (back)

The information provided, however, was pretty damn helpful! 1 more question: For me, being a shorter dude, would it make sense to rather look for something 7-8 footish or does it make sense to even go for a 9 foot board?

My focus is on strong basics and 0 fanciness for now. I'll also have a look into the beginner board thread - my thread here has been moved as I hadn't realised there's a specific board advice forum.

Cheerio!

CookieMcCookerton wrote:For me, being a shorter dude, would it make sense to rather look for something 7-8 footish or does it make sense to even go for a 9 foot board?

At 5' 7" and 140 pounds, I'm a short dude who loves longboards.

The extra flotation and paddle power make it easier to catch waves, the extra weight helps you to carry your momentum as you glide and the lower rocker lets you plane even when going in a straight line. A day that is 4ft and glassy will be fun on almost any type of board, but with a big board you can have a fun session in conditions that are 1ft and crumbly. So now instead of only being able to get out and surf the 200 days a year where is is 3ft+ you will be able to also make use of the 100 days where it is under 3ft.

It is harder to get outside with a longboard but this can be overcome by using channels and rip currents, timing your entry between sets, and getting into better paddle shape. IMHO the FUN of riding a big board far outweighs the liabilities.

1.7m isn't that short, you are probably taller than most pro surfers!

You could perhaps argue that there will be minimal difference for you between, say, an 8'4 board and a 9'1 board, in that both will be suitable and you won't suffer any material detriment from the shorter board. However a 9ft board is a more common length and easier to find and you also won't have any detriment from using the longer board. Also don't take this as saying that if 8'4 is ok, then 7'10 will be almost as good and 7'6 will be ok. In surfing inches matter. You will absolutely notice the difference between 9' and 7'6

Although 9' boards look huge on land, when you are in the water you will appreciate every inch.

You might only surf this board for a year or so and then buy another one, but that is how surfing goes

Your other choice is a wavestorm - it's a pretty good beginners choice if you live where they are sold. Although it's only 8ft its v wide and thick so

CookieMcCookerton wrote:For me, being a shorter dude, would it make sense to rather look for something 7-8 footish or does it make sense to even go for a 9 foot board?

Great, so me being 158cm. makes me a Extra Small ! I can turn a 11'0", so you should be able to turn a 9'0" no problem with the right technique. There are times I would rather use my 7'10" on dumping beach breaks, just because I know the longboard doesn't "fit" in the wave ( and probably going to end up in two pieces ). But I wouldn't go down past 2 feet over your head in length in till you can bottom turn and cutback going backside.
Sometimes the best way back to the lineup isn't the quickest or shortest route. Use more of your Brain and less of your Brawn to get back out. Use the superior float of the line longboard and go around the turbulent white water. ( if possible ).