Volume in first surfboard - is it possible to have too much?

[peterstock]

I'm a beginner, thinking about buying my first board some time, but not quite yet. I've read quite a lot of advice, here and elsewhere, about making a suitable board choice.

The things that are important to me are (in order of importance):
-easy to paddle
-easy to catch waves
-able to progress and do some turns
-durable
-cheap

I am 170cm/5'7" and 60kg. My nearest beach is 1.5 hours drive away (UK North Sea) and I'd surf 1-3 times a month. The waves there are wind swell mostly, 1-4ft, 5-6s period with fairly strong onshore wind is typical. 8-9s period is about as long as it gets, I think. It's a beach break.

I've done about 5 hours surfing, and in the last 2 hour session, I have paddled out and caught 3 unbroken waves and rode them in straight (nose dived or caught, but fell off many more). I was so happy about the long ride I got that I didn't even think about trying to turn I've been renting an 8ft foamie each time I go.

I'll rent the foamie a couple more times first, but I was thinking maybe a hard long board would be good choice for me as a first purchase. I have no desire to work my way down to a smaller board - I like the laid back long board style and it seems more functional for the conditions I have. (Is that right?)

So, my question: I know people say if in doubt, go for longer/bigger, but are there any disadvantages to having a bigger length/greater volume board? Is there such a thing as too big? I was considering an 8'6" x 22.5" x 3.125", 67.2L (http://www.torq-surfboards.com/long-86.html). Is that too much volume for 60kg? My paddling speed and endurance is not that great, and likely never will be, so I figure I need all the help I can get.

Would a lower volume board be any easier to get out to the back? Since having one small enough to duck-dive isn't an option for me, I'm thinking maybe it wouldn't make much difference? I'll have to turtle roll through anything big anyway, so I thought any extra float to help paddling would be a good thing.

Would this much volume make turning too hard? From videos I've seen, it seems that with the right technique, even small people can turn big boards.

Various volume calculators seem to think I should have half this volume (even at the most extreme beginner end of the spectrum!). I figure they are meant for more of a shortboard style of board, but wanted to check before I go against them all

Any other comments/recommendations gladly received!

[jaffa1949]

Hi Peterstock, you've read well and unlike a lot of newbies your choice is good, the Torq 8'6" is good for what you want.
It will be a good board for quite a while, welcome to the world of surf.

Volume is good and yes it will paddle more easily Have fun

[Big H]

I've been talking to a local longboard shaper.....these are shots of him the past few weeks at Padang Padang....big guy, big boards....

[oldmansurfer]

Obviously if a board is a mile long, it will be difficult just getting into the water and you will never catch a wave with it so it is possible to be too long. If a board is 10 foot wide, you won't be able to paddle it so too wide is possible. I have a beginners SUP board that is 12 feet long and 36 inches wide. I can surf it but it's really difficult to turn but it wasn't really designed for that, it was designed to be a cruiser not a wave rider. If I wanted to however I could learn to ride that behemoth. What makes a board work or not work well is complex. To start off with you have waves which are all different, a surfer whose skill level and fitness level is changing and the board which is not changing unless it gets damaged a lot. Then there is style of surfing, what do you want to do? While board design keeps improving,it's not rocket science. They know some things about boards but it is too complex of an issue to have a one size fits all even for a given weight. However it sounds like you are on the right track. I think if you found the foam board easy enough a board that size would probably work but a little bigger and it should be easier to catch waves with.

[peterstock]

Thanks! I feel reassured that I'm on the right track.

I was watching the other day and there were a few people all on short looking boards, most not catching many waves. But there was one person kneeling on what looked a much bigger board, thick and floating high in the water. They were zipping back and forth, riding in and paddling back out so many times, like they were running rings round the others. I've seen a picture of someone riding this sort of board in the same way - kneeling down. What's the name for that?

[oldmansurfer]

You must have met Jaffa I guess what you are talking about is kneeboarding unless they were using a paddle

[peterstock]

Ah, that must be it. No paddle, but they paddled with both arms together, not alternately. It looked like it worked really well.

[BaNZ]

Any chance that you're from around Cambridge? Do you also surf at Cromer?

[oldmansurfer]

Ah, that must be it. No paddle, but they paddled with both arms together, not alternately. It looked like it worked really well.

However unlike most kneeboards which are meant to be used with swim fins to catch the waves it is a larger board that can be knee paddled. I haven't ever seen that but can imagine it. In my mind I pictured a surf ski which is a short thick board meant to be paddled in a seated position with a kayak paddle (basically a kayak without a cockpit). Not sure but it sounded like those waves were pretty good for that board and surfer.

[oldmansurfer]

There are many different ways to ride waves. That one I don't think I have even heard of before but in my mind can imagine it. Another one that not many would think of is surfing (big waves) on a longboard but laying down which I have heard of. In fact long ago most surfers laid down on the old wooden surfboards to ride them. Only the really skilled ones stood up. The idea of a knee paddling shortboard doesn't quite make sense since in order to knee paddle you need a lot of flotation and in doing so you give up maneuverability. Most kneeboards are short and very maneuverable. Make it longer and thick enough to knee paddle and you lose this but maybe those waves were perfect for this board? Anyway that is very interesting but knee paddling is inefficient because you need to coast between paddles and in order to do so you need length of board. So I imagine this knee paddling kneeboard would be very difficult in bigger more powerful waves.

[jaffa1949]

On solid longboards one way of paddling is to kneel on the board to paddle in and catch waves , then stand up from the kneeling position.
A knee boarder paddles prone and surfs on their knees, kneeboards were the ancestor of short board surfing as they went places on the wave that had only been imagined.
There were belly boards and paipos that were ridden prone..
Then there are surfskis and surf kayaks sitting paddle power skis surfer is on the ski kayaks surfer is in the the kayak. There was a period in Australia where 16ft racing skis were ridden standing up after catching the wave sitting. Now we have stand up paddle surfing.

A picture of Dee Why Point by Bob Weeks in 1962.
Note almost everyone is knee paddling, and Budgie smugglers were the swimwear of choice.

[oldmansurfer]

When I started surfing many of my friends still had surfer knots from knee paddling even thought hey had switched to shortboards

[Tudeo]

The things that are important to me are (in order of importance):
-easy to paddle
-easy to catch waves
-able to progress and do some turns
-durable
-cheap

I am 170cm/5'7" and 60kg.

Have a look at the BIC 7'9" NATURAL SURF, I had very good experiences with that board when learning to catch and surf my first waves. Many surfschools used them in that time, that was great I never had to bring my own board when traveling. I still got that board after 20 years, I give it to visiting friends who want to ty surfing for the first time. I don't have to worry about dings

At 5'7" you must be carefull not to get a board with too much width because it will be hard to carry and paddle with short arms and a narrow frame.

[BaNZ]

At 5'7" you must be carefull not to get a board with too much width because it will be hard to carry and paddle with short arms and a narrow frame.

I'm 5'7 and I carry a longboard with too much width. I really struggle to carry it at first, but it is fine now. I've stretched my right arm(dominant) so much that not only is it longer, I can also carry it under my arm. I can't carry it on left arm though, haven't dislocated/extended it enough it seems.

[saltydog]

At 5'7" you must be carefull not to get a board with too much width because it will be hard to carry and paddle with short arms and a narrow frame.

I'm 5'7 and I carry a longboard with too much width. I really struggle to carry it at first, but it is fine now. I've stretched my right arm(dominant) so much that not only is it longer, I can also carry it under my arm. I can't carry it on left arm though, haven't dislocated/extended it enough it seems.

Or, you can carry the board on your ever dependable head, like me at 5'2 riding a 22 1/8" wide longboard.

[oldmansurfer]

My Sup has a slot in the middle to carry it but you could get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Northcore-Shoulder-Carry-Sling-Surfboard/dp/B0056YVVGC or make your own

[saltydog]

Do you know what you can do with those carrying devices while you are in water? I always wondered if someone would walk away with it if I use one of those and leave it on the beach.

[jaffa1949]

When I started surfing many of my friends still had surfer knots from knee paddling even thought hey had switched to shortboards

The surfers' knots or board bumps/lumps as they were called in Australia were the hope for many Aussies surfers that they would be seen as deformed foot and knees that might prevent call up for Vietnam
Still haven't got the kneeboard and the surf has been double underhead for weeks now , so not even my Mango Ganesh long board is an option.

[peterstock]

Any chance that you're from around Cambridge? Do you also surf at Cromer?

Not from Cambridge, but Ipswich. But, yes - I've only ever surfed at Cromer! Do you know this person, or maybe you are them?

[peterstock]

Or, you can carry the board on your ever dependable head, like me at 5'2 riding a 22 1/8" wide longboard.

That's what I did with my foamie It made it much easier!