Surfing Waves

I am new to surfing and have started on my father in laws 8 foot hybrid (I have been surfing twice a week for 2 months) I picked up on surfing fairly quick and am able to surf the waves in Oceanside fairly well (usually 2-3 foot waves.) I am posting here to see other people's opinions on what kind of board I should transition to next. I feel very comfortable on this board and feel I am ready to step down a notch. I am 6'2 200 lbs. I will only be surfing in the so cal region. I am wanting a board that I could be able to duck dive as well. All comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.

I would wait and practice on what you ate on now. 2x per week fir 2 months means you have surfed a total of 8-10 times right? It takes me twice that many sessions just to regain paddle fitness after taking a 3 week vacation. Thats regain not build.....building the paddle fitness foundations toik alot longer than that in spite of my being a very athletic person. You have alot to learn yet; at your frequency Id say stay on that board for at least a year before trying something else.

Big H wrote:I would wait and practice on what you ate on now. 2x per week fir 2 months means you have surfed a total of 8-10 times right? .

2 per week x 4 week per month x 2 months = 16... .

Which, nonetheless is a very little amount and doesnt change what Big H says.

Why do you want to go to a shorter board - that is, what is it about a shorter board that appeals (or what is it about a longer board that doesnt appeal)? Is it just duck diving - in which case you are probably looking for something around the 40 - 43L mark and, by the way, duck diving may be the only thing you will do on it because you wont be catching many waves...

You really should stick on your current board for about 100 hours. You wont get worse or be missing out on anything by doing so; you will just be improving much faster than if you drop to a shorter board. Then when you do go down in length, it wont be too big a deal

I can do the maths.....anyone who says two times a week means at best......exageraring to make a point...........point being a newbie thinks twice a week represents a good amount of surfing when it really just isnt.

Jacobcog, Big H and dtc are kindly givin you the best advice. I am a learner with LOTS of hours on my 8' learner, I surf 1-2 breaks a day here in Dominical CR.100 hours on your board sounds like a lot but really isn't. Continue the white stuff till you're good at the 3' height then another 100 hours on the small green stuff. You're young, you got time! I bought a sweet 5'11 wide and thin 'transition' board from my surfing instructor the other day, took her out to my familer 2'-3' white water and after 12 attempts to simply pop up and ride I stood up once (for a whopping 3 seconds) laughed and said "nope, not yet" What I will do is bring the shorty along on some days and and try a bit more between long board practice, kinda like 'working it in' That's gonna be my technique, you will find yours. rock on!

I spent 150h on my long board just sorting out things like my pop up, paddling posture & fitness, positioning and timing....took another 150-200h smoothing those things out and getting more consistent catching waves....+ 150h more hours to get so I could catch waves and pop up on a shortboard relatively consistently without looking at my feet or being stuck in the whitewater...and that was surfing every day for the most part..........I could be an outlier dunce but I know that's probably not the case.....

Turtle roll your way out back isn't that bad considering you get to make use of all the glide that a longer board has. Your board should be able to do most anything if a rider has enough enough skill... possibly with the exception of duck diving. Until you can turn your board deftly there isn't a lot to gain from switching to a shorter board but rather hinder your progress.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have used my buddies shortboard today in some 2-3 footers today and absolutely loved it. I guess I will spend some time on his board some more and a bit on mine. Waves were breaking perfect and I felt great.

saltydog wrote:Turtle roll your way out back isn't that bad considering you get to make use of all the glide that a longer board has. Your board should be able to do most anything if a rider has enough enough skill... possibly with the exception of duck diving. Until you can turn your board deftly there isn't a lot to gain from
switching to a shorter board but rather hinder your progress.

I am new to this thread thing and I'm sorry if I did not reply properly. I went and surfed with a friend on his 6'4 board today and was able to get up and turn no problem. Was a great day to surf. I am so stoked. Will still definitely practice on my 8 footer as well.

If you are finding the 6ft4 ok, then buy one similar to the one you borrowed. For all our comments and theories, they are generalisations and if you have actually surfed a 6ft4 and found it acceptable, then get something that is just like that board. Nothing beats specific knowledge

Now you are ready to expand your quiver