Surfing Waves

Hi everyone,

I'm 6'2, 185lbs, average fitness, been surfing for 5 years and typically go out twice per week for 1-2 hours at a time. I am generally surfing in 2-3' or 3-4' waves at beach breaks in Orange County. I'll go out in a 4-6' if the conditions are right. I originally started with an 8' foamie and had trouble most likely due to weighing 250lbs, bought a 10' Becker single fin and learned to surf and then lost 70lbs and moved down to a 9'2" longboard thinner and less wide, I ride with a 2+1 setup currently. I've become pretty comfortable on the 9'2" and have been thinking about getting something a little shorter to help with maneuverability, slightly steeper drops and a little more speed. My first transition from 10 - 9'2 (10 inches) went great, I was riding the board the first time I had it in the water. This 8'4 looks like a logical next step.. it's still pretty much a long board and I won't have too terrible of a time riding it at first, it's another 10 inches transition so I'm thinking I'll have a similar experience to when I moved from 10 - 9'2. Any thoughts? I know people tend to be surfing the 10+, 9' or 7' lengths

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/spo/5420953238.html

That 8'4 looks like it would be a lot of fun, price isn't too bad either. It's always good to drop down in increments so the transition is easier. For me, the hardest part was getting the pop-up down on the shorter boards(transition from popping up from my feet vs my knees on the shorter board), but doubt that'll be an issue for you on an 8'4. There might be a little overlap(quiver-wise) with your 9'2, but you always have the option of selling it later on once you're ready for your next board.

8'4" is just the length. What about the width, thickness, rocker, full or tapered rail, nose width, tail width ? There are 8'0"s that paddle better than some 9'0"s. There's some 9'0"s that are easier to turn than some 8'0"s. it depends on more factors than just Length.

I think be open to 8'0" 8'2" 8'4"s.

I went from a 9ft1 to a 7ft4 minimal (still wide - 22 1/2 - and thick) and didnt find it particularly hard. Well, I should say that popping up and standing on the wave was not too difficult a transition, but positioning myself to catch the wave took a bit of learning. I'm about 180lb if that is of any benefit.

You do notice a fair bit of difference in how you ride the wave between a 9ft and a mid 7ft board tho - the nice longboard glide isnt really there anymore

So I reckon you can likely go shorter - mid to high 7ft - if you want. If you want to go shorter and surf a shorter style that is. If you just want to go shorter but retain the longboard style, then mid 8ft is a good choice.

As oldgrom mentioned, I reckon an 8ft4 will significantly overlap (ie feel similar, ride similar, be suited to similar waves) as your current board. Not saying it will be exactly the same, but it might feel much of a muchness. As said, if that is what you want, then ideal. But if you want something a bit different, my opinion (worth as much as you paid for it...) is go a bit shorter. Stay with the mal board outline (wider nose, straight rails etc).

Decided to go new with a local shaper who helped shape my current board, he surfs at some of the same spots I do so he is very familiar with the conditions, I'll post some pictures when it is done

Shaped by Chas Wickwire- ended up w/ 8.0ft 22.75" wide and 2.85" thick 3 fin setup. I'm super stoked to get this in the water!!

that looks really nice, the length and thinner nose should be good to differentiate it from your long(er) board. Different enough to notice and learn and experience something new; not so different as to be too big a jump. You probably can keep this board for the rest of your life - looks like a great choice

now the hard part - covering it with wax

Do you surf at lunada bay?

I did feel a difference in transition from 9 to 8. Harder paddling, faster rides, harder to catch a way and keep balance and no more tiny waves.
And be ready for sore body:)

Dtc, what is the lifespan of your boards? At least in LA, fiber glass boards don't last enough to bequeath them! In bigger waves I see slapped ones all the time:)

OlegLupusov wrote:Do you surf at lunada bay?

I did feel a difference in transition from 9 to 8. Harder paddling, faster rides, harder to catch a way and keep balance and no more tiny waves.
And be ready for sore body:)

Dtc, what is the lifespan of your boards? At least in LA, fiber glass boards don't last enough to bequeath them! In bigger waves I see slapped ones all the time:)

Haha, exactly. It is actually a pretty big difference! Harder to paddle, but I'm getting the hang of it since I am starting to find the sweet spot on the board so I'm balanced. Figured out I need to paddle with my head down when I'm going for a wave. I can almost duck dive the board if I get one of the rails under first and then center my body and push, I think with more practice I'll have this down. I've only had it out 3 times and every time I've come home super sore! I'm excited, I hope this means I'll build some more muscle and eventually this will get easier. At first I was paddling from the same place I would have with the 9'2 but yesterday I lined up where the shortboard fellows sit and started paddling for steeper waves and I started catching a bunch! Now I'm just curious if the loose feeling of the back of the board sliding out is typical or if the fins I have are too small. I went from a single to a 3 fin setup so it's a completely new feeling.

OlegLupusov wrote:Dtc, what is the lifespan of your boards? At least in LA, fiber glass boards don't last enough to bequeath them! In bigger waves I see slapped ones all the time:)

My three current boards:

longboard - bought second hand in about 2009ish, made in 1994!. Is handshapped custom board. Had a largish ding repaired before I bought it but since then nothing that required repair (a few minor spider cracks). I dont think I could break it if I tried, the glassing has hardened to rock like status. It does weight a fair bit but a nice cruiser

midlength - made for me in 2012. Has 2x6 oz fibreglassing and another 4oz sheet around the fins and leash connector. Not a scratch - is heavy as well I guess but just so well made. (note: high performance short boards might only have 1x4oz or 1x6oz glassing - so this board has 2-3 times as much fiberglass)

shorter midlength - bought second hand in 2014, made 2005. Also a high level custom made board when new. No repairs since I've had it

So I've never broken a board and never needed any repairs. I've broken a heap of fins...

I do caveat my comments by saying

- all my boards were custom made (not for me always) and have pretty heavy glassing and are all really good quality/higher end boards. As a result they are all fairly heavy boards and I guess are not high performance - but I'm fairly heavy and not high performance, so thats even
- I tend to surf beach breaks where there arent any rocks or few rocks (I did run into a rock on point break once but somehow nothing happened). Also they arent particularly heavy waves in the scheme of things
- I'm wary of surfing in shallow water so generally am not at risk of nose diving my board into the bottom
- I carry my boards in good quality board bags and can fit them all into the boot of my car (if I dont have any passengers), so they are pretty well protected.
- generally I'm not surfing anywhere too crowded (less than 10 people out, although sometimes its more than that) and most of them are pretty good surfers (ie there are other spots where the beginners tend to go). And I'm careful not to be in the way of people even if they are idiots. So I rarely have a situation where someone runs over me

So you can have a board that lasts for a long time

The biggest risk to my boards is probably getting them in and out of the car in the car park, smacking against the car or dropping onto the road or something like that.