Surfing Waves

Hi all,
New here.
I grew up surfing 70's single fin/twin fin surfboards. Right now I ride a 6'2" Firewire Vader. I weigh 210lbs. Nice board and I love it.
Recently I ordered a custom Aipa Sting. Always wanted one in my quiver.
Like a lot of surfers, I tend to fuss about dimensions when it comes to surfboards and just wanted some more opinions.
Would their be a major difference between a 7'2" ver 7'0" ? x 22 wide
7'2" would paddle a bit better??? 7'0" turn a little quicker???? Or indiscernible?
Now, their would be a difference in a modern shortboard, but does it matter in the retro world? Especially at this size?
I know this is dumb question since I am not a professional.....just a average 54 year old man.
Can anyone relate?
Steve

Some people apparently notice differences between an inch or two and apparently you think that matters too but I think that either I am not good enough to notice the difference or I don't put in enough hours surfing over time to notice the difference. I barely notice the difference between 6 inches difference. My guess is the difference would be most notable when the conditions challenged your ability to use the board because that is where I notice the 6 inch difference.

@oldmansurfer,
I don't think I am good enough to notice that small of a change either. I think it is a psychological thing. In my group of friends the smaller the board you have, the better you must be as a surfer. Hindsight tells me that is bs. I missed some pretty good waves with that mentality and too short of a board.

HyeSurfer wrote:Hi all,
New here.
I grew up surfing 70's single fin/twin fin surfboards. Right now I ride a 6'2" Firewire Vader. I weigh 210lbs. Nice board and I love it.
Recently I ordered a custom Aipa Sting. Always wanted one in my quiver.

Hey Steve. I'm a newbie surfer so I'm just speculating and have no real experience or solid info with respect to giving you a decent answer. I think it's an interesting question, though, so I hope you don't mind if I chime in and see if it generates any insight from surfers/shapers with more experience.

Anyway, I imagine those 2 extra inches might make the difference in your board pearling or not depending on the drop of a wave. They also might allow you to position yourself 2 inches further up on the board and that might generate more speed for you depending on the rocker of your board. Maybe thinking about the extra two inches in length along with how much rocker the board has would influence the speed of your rides. Do you want a flatter rocker along with a bit more flotation? Then maybe you need two extra inches in length. You can play with lots of variables when it comes to the design of your board. I would think about those 2 inches in terms of how they fit into the other dimensions of your board and how you like to position yourself on your board. Just my two cents.

Pretty good two cents.

Here is the board I am having shaped. The white outline over the Aipa is a 1978 7'2"x21 pintail that i already own and enjoy. Notice the similarities.
It has the shape of a sting, and I thought it would be fun to add a wing to it and see how it rides. I am thinking of 7'2" x 22 Sting or 7"0"

Fin placement will be fun!!!!

HyeSurfer wrote:Would their be a major difference between a 7'2" ver 7'0" ? x 22 wide
7'2" would paddle a bit better??? 7'0" turn a little quicker????

Major difference, no, discernible difference, yes.
Once you're up and riding, there won't be a huge difference, but 2" on a 22" wide board is a fair chunk of volume so you'd notice it in the paddle and in catching waves.
The other moments you might notice an extra 2" is when you hit the bottom of the drop and when you try a more snappy turn*... when you're standing over the fins on a 7' board, 2" extra will make the front seem even further away!

By the sounds of it, at your age/weight/skill level, I'd go with the added bonus volume and use it to up your wave count rather than worrying about the details of how that 2" will affect the ride




* Talking generally here rather than about your potential board... my experience on single fins is very limited.

Good lesson learnt Hye! Where people really surf, it is about the board that enables you to surf your best!
Not about some current trendy fashion statement .
Be assured in your own surfing and enjoy your journey.

Your getting a custom board made by Ben Aipa especially for you. You need to ask HIM those questions. You are only looking at length and a bit of the tail. But if the 7'0" and a 7'2" both have the same max width of 22", the outline is a bit different between the two of them. Also adding a stinger moves the widest point up or down. You have to consider the whole package. It's Ben's design, you need to ask him.

waikikikichan wrote:Your getting a custom board made by Ben Aipa especially for you. You need to ask HIM those questions.

Very good point indeed!

True. I need to ask and will. But hoping for more info before I ask.

"well, my friend said"
"I read that ......"
"I saw this board at the beach"
"the guys on the forum said"

All does not matter. As the saying goes "Too many Chefs in the kitchen". What matters is YOUR own questions and ability. Ben doesn't care about those other things. He wants to know YOU. What you expect out of the board and what you are able to do with it...... realistically. When you talk to him, don't feel there are questions you are afraid to ask or that there stupid questions. One question he asked me was " Do you want me to make you a fast board or a board you can make go fast ? " He is a master Chef, trust him.

Thanks.
I am embarrassed to ask.
Going to ask.

HyeSurfer wrote:Thanks.
I am embarrassed to ask.
Going to ask.

I think you're doing exactly the right thing. Educate yourself and talk to as many people as possible. If you go to a doctor and get a serious diagnosis, then get a second opinion. Experience has taught me not to blindly accept expert opinion, but to understand enough to evaluate it and be informed enough to elicit information you will understand and be informed by. In order to make decisions that work for you, you need to bring some understanding with you. Good craftsmen/women, in my experience, appreciate informed customers. Their goal is to provide you with exactly what will work best for you and the better you understand all the variables involved the better you can make a decision that will make you happy.

HyeSurfer wrote:Thanks.
I am embarrassed to ask.
Going to ask.

The shaper I last got a board from asks for comments/quotes from every person a few months after you have had the board - part of his desire to ensure he is providing what people want. Anyway, what I said was (in part) "Although dealing with a shaper might seem like you are purchasing a board, to a large extent you are really purchasing a service"

For the good shapers, the physical making of the board itself is a given. They can do it blindfolded. What they really need to know is what board to make - that's where the 'service' part of it comes in. Asking questions, getting answers, probing, discussing. That is what a good shaper offers and what a good shaper needs from you.

So don't feel embarrassed - a humble question from someone recognizing and seeking the expertise of the shaper is far far better (I imagine) than an arrogant 'know it all' insisting that he (usually a he!) has all the answers and just requires a gumby to shape a bit of foam.

A good shaper will want a 20min plus conversation with you (mine schedules an hour for each person for every board!). That's why you use a shaper and don't buy off the rack. Even buying the shapers standard 'off the rack' dims without a conversation is a waste of your money.

RinkyDink wrote:If something makes sense to you, then try it and use it if you like it. Don't let fashion stop you from innovating your way to better performance. I love surfing, but I can't stand all of its testosterone fueled viciousness and conventionality. I'm quite happy to ignore the fashion police out in the lineup. Those are the jocks who watch phony professional wrestling and couldn't care less about environmental conservation. I don't waste time worrying about their opinions. There are too many interesting people surfing. Why concern yourself with the opinion of dullards?

Then the opinions of others do matter. Some good some bad, some positive some negative. But when it come to ordering a board from a master shaper or master chef, i won't second guess his craft. "Shouldn't you be using fresh cream ?" "Isn't low heat better ?" "my Mom, would marinate it longer". I think the Chef would say, "look, who's doing the cooking ?" " if you want it prepared that way, then go over there ".
The board I had custom ordered before I had one done by Ben Aipa, I did exactly what Hyesurfer did ( albeit without the internet ). Read all the magazines, ask all the local rippers, took dimensions of all the boards I liked. I wanted a fast board and ordered bevel rails, air step, step deck, single to double barrel, super light this-that, etc. everything I was told that would make the board faster. The shaper said "whatever you want" and made it with those extra features. The board sucked. Got a chance to order from Ben. Told him the same thing " i want this, that blah blah". He listened and asked me that famous question. I learned to leave it in his hands. Board came out awesome.

The question posed was if "7'0" or 7'2" by 22" would make a difference ?" I think the most informed person would be the one actually shaping the board, Ben Aipa. He can make a 7'0" float more than a 7'2". He can make a 7'2" turn more easily than a 7'0".

I am going to ask. Period.
However,
What I know of single fins is that a 1/4 inch of movement of the fin can change the performance. Hell, what kind of fin can change things. So many variables! That said, Length of board, even if minor, should also effect performance. So, if that is true, and knowing I am not a great surfer, it seems logical to go with more paddle power.
I needed the collective minds of everyone to shake things up.

I think you're going to love it at either length....keep us updated and post pics of the finished product and reports of how stoked you are after taking it out a few times!

waikikikichan wrote:when it come to ordering a board from a master shaper or master chef, i won't second guess his craft. "Shouldn't you be using fresh cream ?" "Isn't low heat better ?" "my Mom, would marinate it longer". I think the Chef would say, "look, who's doing the cooking ?" " if you want it prepared that way, then go over there ".
The board I had custom ordered before I had one done by Ben Aipa, I did exactly what Hyesurfer did ( albeit without the internet ). Read all the magazines, ask all the local rippers, took dimensions of all the boards I liked. I wanted a fast board and ordered bevel rails, air step, step deck, single to double barrel, super light this-that, etc. everything I was told that would make the board faster. The shaper said "whatever you want" and made it with those extra features. The board sucked. Got a chance to order from Ben. Told him the same thing " i want this, that blah blah". He listened and asked me that famous question. I learned to leave it in his hands. Board came out awesome.

The question posed was if "7'0" or 7'2" by 22" would make a difference ?" I think the most informed person would be the one actually shaping the board, Ben Aipa. He can make a 7'0" float more than a 7'2". He can make a 7'2" turn more easily than a 7'0".

I don't believe in the concept of "master" or "genius" or "pope" or "reverend" or any other designation that demands my deference. I'll never kiss the ring of a "master" and if some master expects that from me, then I'll only show them contempt. Society might set those kinds of conventions up, but I just don't believe in them. I do believe in my ability to reason and think critically. Critical thinking has never let me down; "masters" and "experts" frequently have. That doesn't mean I don't put my faith in experts at times. I just use the same critical thinking skills to evaluate experts. The experts I trust are really teachers; they have the ability to explain their craft to me. They can articulate themselves and I learn something from them. I think any craftsmen worth a salt wants to talk about their craft and engage in discussion, if they don't, then they're probably salesmen who have no craft. Therefore, the more I understand about a subject, the more I can engage with and learn from people who have some expertise in the field. Knowledge is power, don't cut yourself off from it by bowing your head in deference and being passive.