Surfing Waves

Hey guys, Hello from Portugal.

I need help choosing a new board. I'm 1,88m (I think it's 6'2 ), and 105kg (230lb I think), and i'm searching for a single fin shortboard. What do you think it would be a good size for me? I usually ride a 9'0 epoxy longboard (with 20 1/2 witdh), and I ride 2 or 3 times per week in 3 foot waves. Do you think a 6'8 with at least 20 witdh would do it?? Thanks n advance

Depends on how good you are. If you have only ever surfed a 9ft, then dropping to 6ft8 might be difficult; I would aim for something around 7-7ft6. But if you are pretty confident on your 9ft then maybe a bit shorter would be ok. However, you are fairly large so don't go too short.

For 2-3 foot waves (I assume this means the waves are around waist high faces?), you will need a bit of volume.

Assuming you are at least an advanced beginner surfer, I would look for something around 7ft and 21 inches wide or so; and as thick as you can find. It wont be that easy a transition - catching the waves will be much harder, although once you are up you should be able to surf it, but may need to learn some 'pumping' skills to build speed.

I had this one but sold it recently....7'3" x 21.5 x 2 15/16".....I think it would be a perfect size....big but not too big, lots of float (I'm 84kg and 1.85cm).....you're bigger than me and I appreciated all that float coming down from a longboard. I just got a 6'8" x 20 x 2 7/8".... It is considerably smaller even if the numbers look close on paper. I'd go with a 7' something first and see how that goes.

The picture is the 7'3"....
The guy I sold it to was so stoked he called me up 5 days later to tell me how much he loved his new board. H had been trying to learn ironically on a rusty 6'8" step up board and the as frustrated. I'd look for something like that. Cheers!

I can "pump" waves with my 9'0, and although I'm stil a beginner, I'm confident surfing my longboard, I cant do any cool tricks, and my stance looks like I'm surfing a shortboard (at least my shortboards friend say that ), and that's why I was thnking of buying a shorter board. I've tried a 6'0 and a 6.9 (gun), in both boards I could catch the wave but with the 6'9 gun it was impossible to stand up, the board would just go crazy to both sides but with the 6'0 (it has more width and thickness) I could stand up but the board would go under water hahaha
I'm also wondering if I should buy a short single fin or a twin fin, I love the retro/old school/classic style of surfing (I love anlex knost style), any of you ride anything similar?what do you think?

Big H that board is so cool. I'd love to get a board like that ...

The 6'8"...ready for me at the shop where I was double checking it after buying second hand from a private seller.....I just Ned to go get it....tail pad and gopro mounts are both gone now....

This is the 6'8 I'm looking to buy

I think you'll have your hands full with that.....I would definitely look bigger esp at your size bro.

Thanks Big H..... I'm gonna take your advice on it, and look for a bigger board. Any advices on single fin/twin fin?

Second hand bargain in good shape..... Keep looking around.....something will turn up.

haha thanks big H... Anytime you come to Portugal we'll surf togethr

It's a deal!

Hugo wrote: but with the 6'0 (it has more width and thickness) I could stand up but the board would go under water

This is because the board isn't moving fast enough - get enough speed and you can surf anything (people can barefoot water ski on nothing but their own feet). On a longboard, there is enough volume (floating you above the water) that if you aren't moving very fast you are still surfing. But on a short board/lower volume, lose speed and you sink. This is why I mentioned the pumping for speed - you just cannot stand on the board and let the wave do everything. Esp on a shorter board and at your weight.

Its not an insurmountable issue but it will absolutely require you to learn new skills which may take some time. And if you are surfing 2-3 foot waves, the risk is that you need to get to a certain skill threshold in order to actually surf those waves, but cant get to that threshold (ie learn how to do it) because you cant actually surf the wave because you don't have the skills in order to practice - a vicious circle. Single fins make this harder because pumping on a single fin is pretty hard (nothing to push against, unlike a thruster with its side fins)

So more volume as Big H says, is your friend. I can't see to many downsides to more volume esp if you are going single fin

Single fin is better than twin fin in my view. A twin fin is pretty much designed to go fast and its not great for turning - a much more limited set up, in my view. Quads offer the same benefits as twins without so many disadvantages, but again its a different style of surfing to singles. Go single, and if you are having speed issues you might be able to put in some knubster side fins (if your board allows for it).

Also, don't change boards because of your stance. Change your stance!

Thanks dtc... I'm going to try to change my stance to a more fluid/stylish/relaxed one... Thanks for your advices.... Oh, and btw, what's your thoughts on the BIC 9'4 Nat young model? I have an oppurtunity to buy one (single fins are very rare here)

Looked it up online....I'm no expert but if it is in good condition I'd buy it. It has a little more rocker / performance design to make bigger waves more accessible....I think you'll paddle more and have to catch inside of where you might with a board that has a flatter rocker but that same rocker will make catching bigger waves and getting into waves later more easy. I'd take it.