Surfing Waves

Hi all. I read through a bunch of posts here, let me start with me:
Years surfing: 2.5 (age 39)
Height: 5'6
Weight: 170
Fitness: good, 3x week gym. Minor consideration is that my pop-up is a bit slow because my right lower leg has some hardware (I broke my tib/fib ~20 years ago) which makes it less flexible.
Surfing: 2-4 times a week, waves (face) 2'-6' (most days are 1-3 or 2-4 at my regular spot). I mostly surf at Diamond Head on Oahu, which the wave quality varies a whole lot.

I started with the Wavestorm from Costco. After I got ok on that, I bought a 6'6 board that was really thick and wide (I can't recall exact dimensions, but think like a longboard just shorter). I couldn't make this board turn much, but it taught me a lot about paddling and pop-ups..I just sold it for about what I bought it for, so all told it was a good move. I also picked up (super cheap) a 6'6 minigun, which is what I'm currently riding. I think its a bit too thin and I think the shape is wrong for what i'm surfing. That all said, I can get up on it without too much effort, but I certainly don't paddle for as much as I did with the thicker board. So I'm shopping.

I keep getting asked what my goals are. I'm not 100% how to answer that question. My goal is to have a good time, spend some time in the ocean and get some exercise. I'm not sure what else to say there. I'd like to be able to turn and go down the line more consistently. I want a board that fits in my Honda civic so I can surf before work. I'd like to be able to hit the lip and come back. Are these the goals they mean?

Here's what I'm thinking..any advice is appreciated:
Length: 6'2-6'8
Width 18"-20"
Thickness ?
Squash or Swallow tail
Nose: rounded or rounded point

lazyturtle wrote:. That all said, I can get up on it without too much effort, but I certainly don't paddle for as much as I did with the thicker board. So I'm shopping.

I am not sure I understand this part. Do you mean you aren't trying to surf as much as you did? It is common for people to want to get a board that will make them surf better. I think that happens some times but for most it is just chasing a dream. I surfed Diamond head a bit long ago and there are channels and breaks in the surf all over the place, so easy to paddle out without duck diving ....or was that just where I went? I think you should get a board as long and thick as you can get into your car. If you want to get a really good board for you specifically go get a local shaper to make you one. I had some really memorable days at Diamond head, but I bet it is more crowded now.

My goal is to have a good time, spend some time in the ocean and get some exercise. I'm not sure what else to say there. I'd like to be able to turn and go down the line more consistently. I want a board that fits in my Honda civic so I can surf before work. I'd like to be able to hit the lip and come back. Are these the goals they mean?

Now, of course (not being condescending I hope), almost all of these goals are dependent on you, not the board. However, I totally get that you want a board that will help you get to those goals as much as possible. First thing I will say is to look around at what other (good) people are surfing in your area and think of getting something like that, but with a bit more size

If you were happy with 6ft6, then I would probably stick with that. That said, on 2ft face waves, there wont be many 6ft6 boards that will do all that well, other than specialised small wave boards (which, at 6ft6, wont be particularly good at anything much larger). So perhaps you can think about going slightly longer.

Personally I think us older and more recently learner types should go with something wider (rather than narrower) and thicker (rather than thinner). Easier to paddle, catch waves, a bit more forgiving - also, for smaller waves, something too narrow and thin will need to be worked very hard. So I think at least 20 inches and around 2 3/4 inches, give or take. Rounded point noise, not much nose rocker (a bit but not much). Tail probably doesn't matter all that much so long as its a squash/rounded point/swallow (ie not a pintail). I gather swallow tails are more susceptible to damage, because they have those little points - if you are shoving the board into your car.

A common suggestion is a 7S board, or something along those lines. eg the Superfish or maybe even a Slipstream. If you look at those boards online, you will realise that virtually every shaper makes a similar board, so there are plenty out there. eg CI Fred Rubble perhaps; the Hypto Krypto (<- very popular but not often ridden well), Firewire Dominator (<- a lot of people seem to like this, or the Addvance). And, because I own one and find them a lot of fun, why not look at an xf McCoy Nugget (<- looks weird but makes wave catching very easy, although aren't really for under waist high stuff). However, I don't know Oahu, if we are really talking about lazy fat longboard waves, then you may want something more like the Superfish or the Addvance than the other boards mentioned.

Around this time of your surfing life, getting a custom board is worth considering. Often they are no more expensive than a new board off the rack, although obviously more expensive than a second hand board.

Anyway, I think you are on the right track but just keep in mind that shorter or narrower or thinner don't necessarily make things easier

Swallow tails work good at Diamond Head. But I don't recommend them for newbies. They always chip or crack the tips. One of the most popular boards ridden at Diamond Head is from the local shaper Mitsu. His model the " Akule " is perfect for the waves there. I never had one complaint about that board.
By the way, don't get caught up with exact numbers. You could give those same numbers and nose/tail descriptions to 10 different shapers, and each board would come out different ( and ride different )

oldmansurfer wrote:

lazyturtle wrote:. That all said, I can get up on it without too much effort, but I certainly don't paddle for as much as I did with the thicker board. So I'm shopping.

I am not sure I understand this part. Do you mean you aren't trying to surf as much as you did? It is common for people to want to get a board that will make them surf better. I think that happens some times but for most it is just chasing a dream. I surfed Diamond head a bit long ago and there are channels and breaks in the surf all over the place, so easy to paddle out without duck diving ....or was that just where I went? I think you should get a board as long and thick as you can get into your car. If you want to get a really good board for you specifically go get a local shaper to make you one. I had some really memorable days at Diamond head, but I bet it is more crowded now.

Gotcha, so with this board I'm able to catch less waves..its less forgiving. If I'm right on it, I'll catch the wave and have a nice ride, but it seems much easier to miss the wave somehow (paddle to late, wrong spot) than the previous board. This has resulted in less waves ridden..but somewhat better quality rides. Given the cost of the board ($50), I'm pretty glad I bought it simply for the experience of using it. I've had a couple of moments where I was proud of myself on it. I just don't think its the everyday board for me. Thanks for the thoughts.

dtc wrote:
Now, of course (not being condescending I hope), almost all of these goals are dependent on you, not the board. However, I totally get that you want a board that will help you get to those goals as much as possible. First thing I will say is to look around at what other (good) people are surfing in your area and think of getting something like that, but with a bit more size

No worries..thats what I think too, so I'm confused about the question. I'm telling them where I'm likely to go surfing and how frequently..I'm not sure what "goals" I should have other than getting better and having fun. Are they asking if I want to do aerials or huge wave surfing or something? They always give a really vague answer when I ask for clarity.

As far as what people are surfing at the breaks I go to..its all over the place. I can literally see people (who I consider amazing) on longboards, fish and shortboards all in the same session.

waikikikichan wrote:Swallow tails work good at Diamond Head. But I don't recommend them for newbies. They always chip or crack the tips. One of the most popular boards ridden at Diamond Head is from the local shaper Mitsu. His model the " Akule " is perfect for the waves there. I never had one complaint about that board.
By the way, don't get caught up with exact numbers. You could give those same numbers and nose/tail descriptions to 10 different shapers, and each board would come out different ( and ride different )

Thanks...the science nerd in me DEMANDS numbers..but I hear what you are saying.

Yeah I can see that there would be a lot of different kind of boards there. It actually has a bunch of different breaks all in the same area and some are probably more suited to certain kinds of board (on a given day). I heard the windsurfers took over the break, I would have guessed the kite surfers are there now as well as the SUPs when there isn't wind.

So trouble catching the wave generally means it has less planning surface or less floatation or both. More rocker in the board can make it more difficult to catch waves as well. This can all be dealt with by getting better at paddling and also lining up better. The alternative is to get a longer wider thicker board with less rocker. I haven't been one to buy off the rack boards ever so I have no real advice to you other than in general longer thicker wider and less rocker or some part of that. Nose rocker makes a board less likely to pearl but it also pushes water when you paddle. Rocker in the tail makes a board turn like a shorter board but it gives you less push from the wave when taking off. It sounds like length is limited so the board can fit in your car so maybe you should also get one thicker, wider, with less rocker. Boards with wider tails maybe more difficult to turn rail to rail so you want the width in the middle and less in the tail unless you don't want to do rail to rail turns or are going to be riding only smaller waves. I looked up the design Waikikichan recommended and that design looks good http://www.mitsusurf.com/index.php?ID=44&cID=2 Maybe something like that Akule board would be great for Daimond Head