Surfing Waves

Hi there!

I'm a long-time lurker, first-time poster. I'm looking for advice on an upgrade from my 8' foamie.

My "dimensions" are: Height = 5’ 3’’ (160cm); Weight = 110.2 pounds (50kg), late 20s, pretty fit (daily gymming and boot camp).

I've been surfing for 1.5 years (still very much a novice), mostly on weekends, but in the last two months, on a daily basis. My current log is a 8' foamie and during this time, I've used it to catch broken waves initially, and have now progressed onto green waves. I usually surf 1-3ft conditions, beach breaks in Australia (Dee Why, Manly, northern beaches etc). I can catch green waves (although I still miss plenty) and I'm starting to angle and veer, although I can't seem to turn. My paddling power has really improved since my daily surfs, and I can out-paddle quite a few fellow novices when getting to the lineup (yippee!).

According to the pinned guide on this board, I should be getting a 6’8" funboard (is that the same thing as a mini mal?), 20” width and 2 4/8” thick. However, I've been told by guys in the surf store to get a 7'6" / 7'8" mini mal at a minimum. To make matters more complicated, my friend, who is similar in weight, height and surf experience to me was recommended (and has since bought) 6'8" x 20 5/8 x2 3/4 mini mal. She is yet to try it out.

I'm thoroughly confused on what dimension board to get. I have also surfed a 6'8 x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4 Ripcurl Joystick (only for a day). I was able to paddle out on it and I caught probably the biggest wave I have ever ridden (maybe 4ft?), but I did feel pretty unstable on it whilst in the water.

Any advice would be gratefully received! Thanks!!!

/edit: sorry for the wall of text!!

girlgonesurfing wrote:upgrade from my 8' foamie... My "dimensions" are: Height = 5’ 3’’ (160cm); Weight = 110.2 pounds (50kg), late 20s, pretty fit ... surfing for 1.5 years... 8' foamie... I can catch green waves ...

...6’8" funboard... 7'6" / 7'8" mini mal ... 6'8" x 20 5/8 x2 3/4 mini mal. ... 6'8 x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4...

Welcome to the wonderful world of surfing where everyone has got a different opinion

With your stats – and assuming you're aiming towards a shortboard rather than a longboard? – I'd go for something right in the middle of that lot.
Something like 7' x 21 x 2 3/4 with a funboard shape (a funboard is a bit more like a shortboard than a mini-mal). That would be reasonably stable, but still give you plenty of scope to improve.

That is a great piece of advice, that board will be a good all rounder for quite some time suits the area's wave too.
I know that area well because that is where I grew up and and learnt to surf.
hope you get as much out of surfing as I have

Yes, I'm aiming towards a shortboard eventually (like a decade down the track haha!). Thanks for your replies (you guys are quick!). It definitely eases my mind about the prospect of getting something that might be too small.

Would I be able to duck dive a funboard of those dimensions?

girlgonesurfing wrote:Would I be able to duck dive a funboard of those dimensions?

Probably not. A 'duckdip' maybe (where you push the nose through a weak wave rather than under it), but at your size, you'll struggle to duckdive anything below around 6'6. I'm 80-odd kg, and I can just duckdive my fat 6'10 board, but a) I'm heavier and b) I've had a lot of practise!

Ah, there goes my dreams of an easy paddle to the line up! Thanks for answering all my questions

Uncle Jaffa, I love surfing the area, and I find that the local surfers are generally pretty nice - they even dole out tips to a newbie like me on occasion

My advice would be to brow your friends board if its sat there doing nothing and see how you go! hehe
God I wish I was back out there *cries quietly in the corner*

seriously though, if you have mates out there with boards to spare (and most people do on the northern beaches) go for a surf with them and ask them to borrow for a few waves before investing?

How about renting a 6'8 or 7'2 torq fuboard? I got the 7'2 version which is something like 7'2 x 21 1/4 x 2 3/4 to complete my quiver with a 6'2 and 6'3 shortboard. It's awesome and more than capable for turning and progressing on. It's got a pin tail to handle some decent size and strong as heck construction.
Take a Google for them? Id absolutely rate it as a good board for beginners to well more experienced

Thanks, that's a great idea - I'll definitely try out a couple of boards before I buy! I'll look into the Torq funboard - I've heard of them but haven't seen any around. Thanks for all the help

girlgonesurfing wrote:Thanks, that's a great idea - I'll definitely try out a couple of boards before I buy! I'll look into the Torq funboard - I've heard of them but haven't seen any around. Thanks for all the help

You can get Torq boards from Natural Necessity online (and probably elsewhere); there are other similar boards you can buy online (and probably in shops) - epoxy boards that will suit beginners. Torq are probably a bit more quality than some of the 'random' ones you can find on ebay etc, but the ebay ones may well suit if you don't want to spend the extra $150 for a Torq. Another option is the Disrupt "M&M' mini mal (I think Disrupt offer board try out days in Sydney - maybe on facebook?). I don't know anything about Disrupt boards but they have been marketing fairly heavily recently so came across them

Of course, you can always try to find a second hand board; around your area of the woods there should be a few for sale - haunt gumtree and the various shops around Manly/ Dee Why etc. A quick search on gumtree showed 2 or 3 boards that might be suitable.

Hey welcome!! How did you get on and which board did you go for? I'm looking at a Torq too as they have good things said about them.

By the way I'm just gonna throw in my own 2 cents re. the turning, I thought for a while that I couldn't turn and it's natural to feel it's the board but after a lill bit of progression and lots of falling off I've found that with practice you can turn just about anything!
I ride a BIC 8'4 and everyone on here seems to think they're sluggish and can't turn. However after sticking at it and a few helpful hints I've found it turns on a dime!! Seriously.
Having your weight back over the fins and balancing properly as you lean and swoop down the face of the wave are key in my limited experience. I've sometimes over-cooked it and turned the board a full 90 degrees in it's own length.
Waikikchan showed an excellent set of pictures on another thread about how when you get your weight back over the fins you shorten the board, lift the nose and turn way more easily, that really helped. At the moment it feels like as soon as I want to make a turn I need speed first of course..I try and initiate the turn from up higher on the wave for a nice whoosh down.. I turn my head to look at where I wanna be, open my shoulders to point and swing in that direction, and keep my board directly underneath my body by bending my knees as much or as little as is needed for the turn, the rail carves into the water and the thing just turns!!
I think one of the experienced guys on here likened the turning to a motorbike turn, so when you're trying to keep your weight over the board, keep it in an angled line above the board that is the same as a leaning biker going round a corner.

These things have helped me so hope they might be of use to you!

Happy hunting