Surfing Waves

Hi everyone, I've a been surfing for a month and I want to move off of my foamie (which I've been told isn't a 'real' surfboard) and eventually get to a shortboard. From what I've read, the best way to do this is to get a mini mal, surf for a while on that, then get a shortboard and gradually get smaller. Is this correct? If it is, what size board should I get? (the board i have now is 7ft) Thanks in advance for answering.

You don't have a surfboard at the moment.

Yes, you'll need to do what every other shortboarder did, which is start with a lot of volume and move to shorter and shorter boards as you get better.
But...
a) becoming a competent surfer takes many years and a lot of practise.
b) the goal of surfing is not to ride the shortest board, it's to surf waves.

thanks for replying, if I buy a mini mal, do you have any recommendations for the size? I read that for my size (5' 8", 62kg) a 7' 2" mini mal would be good. Do you agree?

Around 7'2 x 22" x 2 3/4 and a mini-mal shape would be a good place to start, yes.

Progressing to a shortboard ? How about " progressing to a hard board ". Try to think in smaller baby steps. Sure we all want to get to the point of being a good surfer. But riding a shortboard doesnt mean you're a good surfer. Maybe you want to ride barrels one day, but get good at bottom turns first.

You still have not said where you surf and what type of wave it is. Reef break, beach break, point break..
As for a month surfing, i would go to the larger side of Funboards, more like 7'6"+, depending on the type of wave ( of which, you have not explained yet )

Please stop trying to find out " absolutes "answers. There are too many variables to surfing. You can have 10 people all who are 5'8" 62 kg. and they ALL need or can ride different boards. There isn't one board for every type of wave and every type of surfer. One thing you can do is learn about the wave and get your paddling skill up, then you can ride any board.

thanks for replying, sorry I keep forgetting to mention what waves I surf. I surf at piha (NZ) it's a beach break. That's all I really know about it right now.

Hi STW

I was in your exact position this time last year- i spent most of last year learning to surf at Muriwai and Piha so I even know your beach and waves well!
I got the same addiction you have and picked up a 7'6 (surf series) minimal within two weeks of my first lesson. I spent about 3 months on that before going to a 6'2 fish (which in hindsight was quite a big jump) but I perservered with it and got to know it. If anything, despite a year of surfing I am now wanting to go a bit longer and get a bit more volume rather than going for these super-low volume shortboards. Speaking from experience, the volume and length of the bigger boards is what you need when you're starting out to get as much actual 'wave time' as possible.

To make it more co-incidental, I am even the same weight as you!! Personally my favourite west Auckland break is 'maori bay', the little cove right next to muriwai. It performs on all tide times and is a bit more sheltered so the waves tend to be cleaner, easier to get out back and probably a bit more hollow + there's usually at least 2-3 different breaks to choose from.

I actually have a 7'0 minimal and an 8'0 minimal that I may be prepared to part with if you're interested. Could do you a good starting deal on both.

On another question- I know the conditions out west over the last couple of weeks have been perfect, clean and only 1-3ft but have you actually paddled all the way 'out the back' at piha to where the other shortboarders are sitting furthest out?
I've never seen a person on a softboard any further back than the whitewash and i'm not sure you understand how big a 7ft wave is, imagine a 4m high wollowing wave coming at you, or at worse, breaking on top of you! My mate lives in piha and surfs almost every day- an accomplished shortboarder. He said that even 5ft the other day was enough to smash him around and hold him under the water on the bigger sets. Keep the enjoyment and don't try to kill yourself prematurely!!
If you ever come out to muriwai or maori bay give me a message and i'll help you out + bring my boards for you to try.

Cheers

benjl, last weekend I was surfing south of lion rock and was out with the shortboarders (still wasn't that far out though, waves weren't that big) I can understand what your friend is talking about, I've been sailing in 6m waves but I'm guessing they'll look a lot bigger when they're breaking on top of you. I'd be interested to see those boards if it isn't a problem. Thanks

Cool man, flick me a private message with your cell number and I'll send you some pics of my minimals or good trademe deals.

Just a quick note here, if you are Ocean sailing then then the "waves" you are meeting are most likely swells with chop and wind effects upon them.
A six foot swell translates to something entirely different when it hits land. If the land is long and gently sloping then a lot of the energy is dissapated by bottom friction.
Should the 6ft swell encounter a sudden shallow ledge on coming out of deep water the power is magnified greatly and the wave will be bigger than six foot.
Multiply the power by the period of the wave ( wavelength ) and everything gets serious.
After all the length of the water in the swell is what is going to pile up with the height to make the wave .

Two best examples are Pipeline and Teahupo Google them and gain understanding.

BTW Lion Rock and Piha on a big day can treacherous , I've done lifeguard swap there.
Get yourself to Raglan if it is working big, not to surf , but to gain an appreciation of great surf.
Northland and Ahipara does a similar long left hander , but a little easier .

good explanation jaffa!

Have you been or surfed at maori bay before (the cove on the other side of the gannet colony by muriwai)?

No I haven't, my west coast North Island is limited to Raglan back in 1967 when I did a religious tour of the North Island.(Before anybody gets too excited, It was playing Rugby Union).
A surf club exchange got me to Piha but it was only for a week and it was more a set of seminars and BBQs. So Lion and main beach only.
Ahipara is on my bucket list!
On east coast Whananaki is almost identical to Merimbula so it has a place too.
( Bridge, lake entrance and swell set up so close to the same)