Surfing Waves

Hi recently i have bought a 6’10 Mark Richards surfboard, (which i think is a semi gun). I am fairly new to surfing, and been surfing Malibus in the past and wanted to purchase a smaller board. I view myself as a beginner - intermediate surfer who is starting to catch unbroken waves and progress.

Would anyone give me any information wether my board is ideal for me, or i should sell for any recommendations.

I have been out on the surfboard and i just keep thinking that its not the right board for me, maybe I’m being to quick to jump to conclusions, but any advice wether this surfboard suits me or any recommendations for sizes / shapes will be perfect. I am truly confused.

My Details:

Beginner - intermediate
Height - 182 cm
Weight - 80 kgs

Board Dimensions:

6’10 X 19 1/4 X 2 5/8

Well,
Speaking also as a begginer, the board seems long enough for your weight and height (taking only flotation in consideration).

When you were out there, what exactly felt wrong? Difficulties on paddling? Getting on the wave? Are waves on your spot often steep?

Talk a little more about the issues and your first impressions with the board, it might help people here give you better advice!

Yeah that’s the only reason i went for the length, i think in time i will get used to the board, and develop my paddling.

My first impressions were paddling speed, usually on a mal i have ease paddling out, but on this board (i don’t know if its just me) but it just felt like it was going anywhere compared. Also earlier i caught a wave and i just tried to pop myself up with my hands gripped to the board and i just couldn’t do it that easy.

Also, many times today it would just nose dive straight down the wave and many a time lost balance, but i think this is due to the waves; they were barrelling, very steep and not great surf conditions today especially for trying out a shorty.

Ive been reading alot on the internet about volume sizes and stuff and just got abit worried wether I’m out of my depth here, maybe I’ve just had a few bad experiences with it on poor surf conditions. Would just like some confirmation from technical experienced surfers that this board is okay for my stage, if not maybe advice on alternatives.

first find out what a "Semi-Gun" is for. Then you won't be as confused.

Okay, let's just talk about now. A "Gun" is for big waves. So a "Semi-Gun" is not quite a full gun but a smaller version for big but not so big waves. Usually big waves are for experienced surfers. You are a beginner ( not beginner-intermediate , because you are still riding white water foam ). You said you rode a mini-mal, but now tried a smaller board with a narrow(er) nose. You lost float and stability. But I wouldn't get rid of the 6'10". One day when you get used to drops and bottoms turns, you can pull in easier than with a big round nose that might " catch " on the waves face ( you did say the waves are steep pitchy ? ).

what do you friends ride that you surf with ?

What do you advise then, take it easy and try to catch white water waves first? i am able to catch unbroken waves on a mal. Should i just stick at it and with time my understanding will develop with how to ride the waves? Or is a semi gun out of my depth? During the course of using the semi gun i felt more confident with stability, just with paddling power and positioning i found hard? Do you reckon i was pushing myself to far attempting larger waves today?

My friends are more experienced surfers from oz, and I’m studying over here from england so they are wayyy better than me.

I think steep drops are the best scenario for this board, chubby waves are much more harder to paddle into with shortboards.

Waikikikichan, is 6'10" a semigun already?

About paddling, position yourself so the nose is only slightly out of water (about 2 inches), otherwise the board will drag water and you will lose paddle power. But even when you're well positioned, paddling on a shortboard is harder, it floats less, so you will have to paddle more to run the same distance and balancing lateraly is also worse.
Also you will struggle harder to paddle inside the wave, so usually its a good thing to give a few more strokes when you think you are inside the wave, since sometimes people pop up sooner than they should and let the wave pass.

Once you're on your feet I don't know about the differences between boards since Ive only surfed a shortboard. But I think shortboards drop in faster, so focus on keeping your feet good positioned and crouch a little to keep balance.

Nose diving is usually result of having positioned yourself too far forward when paddling.

Take it to the beach a few more times, maybe it's just a matter of getting used to it. If it persists for too long then you might consider trading it.

Ben - ask your friends to set you up in the right spot. And when they say "paddle", don't go "huh, what ?" or "you mean this one ??" . Just paddle !! You have to trust their experience.

By the way, you sure that's a Mark Richards shaped board ??

" 6'10" a semigun already?" Ian - just like in waves, its the shape not the size. You can have two people that both weigh 150 lbs. but one is 4'11" and one person is 6'2". They look totally different. You can have a mini-mal, semi-gun, funboard, retro fish, etc. that all measure out at 6'10".

"About paddling, position yourself so the nose is only slightly out of water (about 2 inches)," - I have the nose JUST over the water surface. Two inches is too much. But if it works for you, then that works.

"Nose diving is usually result of having positioned yourself too far forward when paddling." - not true, it's usually not getting up quick enough or bad pop-up, paddling too straight or in the wrong place. But worse than too far forward is being too far back causes a snowplow effect and after the wave picks up the tail, it shoves the nose down. I rather a person be too far forward than too far back. I rather him pearl and thus "over caught" the wave than sit too back and the waves pass under them.

So a semigun is a board that has a point nose and is relatively thick? I still gotta learn about the types of boards, I still classify them basically on shortboards, funboards and longboards

Well, 2 inches maximum I should have said. In my paddling position the nose oscilates a bit between sunken and a little over water.

You are right, rather nosedive than being left behind by the wave because of bad positioning. If you pearl, at least you were dragged by the wave and its a matter of time to get thinks worked out.
Didnt know about the late pop up making you pearl, but I guess it makes sense since you would be pushing the board down when its already pointing down.
With a bad pop up you mean bad positioning of hands during it? Like pushing it over the height of your chest?

There is a Mark Richards logo on the deck so I guess it is a genuine MR board. I learned to surf on a 6'10" x 18" x 2.25" board long ago when that would have been considered a normal shortboard. If it really is a semigun design then if you want to surf a shortboard and especially if you want to ride bigger waves then this board might be good for you. It may take you a bit to get used to it but once you do it should be good for you for a couple years or more if you take care of it. Then you may want to go in a different direction. It takes more strength to paddle a shortboard so that would be why you feel it doesn't paddle as well. You will also have to be in better position to catch a wave with a shorter board. Longer boards allow you a larger takeoff zone. Begginers often think getting a new board is going to make them a better surfer but that is rarely the case and that surfing a shortboard is just like surfing a longboard only it's shorter and more maneuverable. It's surfing more that makes you a better surfer and shortboarding is more difficult.