Surfing Waves

Last time I went out surfing the waves were bigger than I was used to. I am used to surfing waves in the 1-3 ft range. Last time i went out they were in the 3-5 range with a few 6 ft sets. I want to start being able to surf bigger wave. when i was out there i noticed they were very steep and whenever i caught them i would just fall forward before I stood up. I noticed alot of surfers were doing the same thing. The surfers who new how to surf the waves were doing well on them so they were not bad waves. I gave up after an hour and a half catching only 2 waves and I got pounded by the other waves. I was riding a 7.4 funboard and a 6.4 shortboard that has alot of volume. If anyone could gire me advice on the topic that would be great.

Is the wave hitting you off your board or are you going down the face before you stand up?

I did go down the face of the wave before i stood up but i also stood up before i went down the face and i fell forward.

Perhaps you need to work at getting a quicker popup. You should pop up before you go down the wave. It could be your timing on when to popup so that just takes time and practice. It takes time and persistence so don't get discouraged. At some point you won't even think about it.

ok thanks for the advice i will try that next time

Getting onto steep waves is one of the biggest challenges in surfing, and a good way to wipe out

You need to get in as early as you can (paddle ultra hard and a little bit earlier than you might for a shallower wave), really catch the wave (one more stroke than you think you need), and absolutely no hesitation with the pop up, and then drive down the line (don't try and slow things down - really push forward and get moving).

All that takes a lot of practise, so don't get discouraged if there are still days when they're too steep. Happens to me all the time

What I do for difficult waves is to go out a little further than I usually would be and start paddling before the wave gets to me so I have speed by the time it gets to me. This takes some practice and timing. Then maybe I can take off before it gets too steep.

Some waves at some places lurch up suddenly becoming steep. On bigger waves that is a difficult thing to be able to take a drop on those waves. When a wave lurches up suddenly the water rushes up the face making a current that you have to overcome. My strategies for those waves is to go out further and paddle before the wave comes in or try a little deeper or shallower on the takeoff. So if there is a peak that hits a sand bar or reef and gets really steep really fast I try to go to the deep side of the peak and sort of backdoor the peak but really hoping to get down the face before it throws over. If that doesn't work I try to take off on the other shoulder which would be an easier place but sometimes it is equally just as difficult. If those strategies don't work then a bigger board may help. But really I just throw myself over the edge of some gnarly waves if I think I can still have the board touching the water on the way down.