Surfing Waves

Hi all. I've been using this site since I decided to take up surfing 2 seasons ago. I followed everyone's advice and bought a cheap used 7'4 funboard to start out on. I'm 6'1 and 180lbs. It was a bit of a challenge at first, but between last season and this one I've really improved my surfing. I can take off on and stand up on just abut any wave that comes through. I can turn down the face most of the time if it's not a closeout.

Last week the forecast showed some 4ft sets coming through, so I figured it was the time to go further improve myself by trying a couple bigger waves. Wow...it was next to impossible to get my funboard out to the lineup! I made it most of the way then took 3 or 4 right on my head and ended up washing back in to shore. I gave it another 2 tries...both with turtling and trying to duckdive (didn't work!). I ended up getting zero waves and went home frustrated...but not before watching some of the experienced guys duck right under those waves and make it out no sweat.

So now I've decided to get something a little smaller and more maneuverable. And hopefully something duckdiveable (I think I just made a new word).

There's a local shop that carries lots of used boards...but the biggest they have in stock is a 6'4 19 2 7/16 shortboard with a good bit of rocker. It's in decent shape and it's only $150. I'm debating picking that up and giving it a shot. I'd also keep my 7'4 for when it's small and mushy. I get out to surf at least 3 times a week...sometimes 4. Do you guys think it would be a step too far to try to take off a whole foot in length?

Or would I be better off with something like a 6'8 funboard that's 21 and 2 9/16? I can find one of those new for $300 with a leash bag and fins...but I'm worried that I'd run into the same problem of not being able to duckdive!

Sorry for the essay. And thanks in advance for your advice!

-Matt in Japan

IragoJapan wrote: I'm 6'1 and 180lbs.

So now I've decided to get something a little smaller and more maneuverable. And hopefully something duckdiveable (I think I just made a new word).

There's a local shop that carries lots of used boards...but the biggest they have in stock is a 6'4 19 2 7/16 shortboard with a good bit of rocker. Do you guys think it would be a step too far to try to take off a whole foot in length?

Or would I be better off with something like a 6'8 funboard that's 21 and 2 9/16?

Sorry for the essay. And thanks in advance for your advice!

Don't buy the funboard, if you are going that small stick to a shortboard, or step up (a bigger size shortboard). When I started surfing I weighed 180lbs too ( I weigh 200lbs now). After a funboard and a big gun my first shorties (or at least I thought it was short) was 6'9 x 20 x 2 5/8, and 10 years later I still have it and use it once in a while.

If you want easy duckdive and still enough glide and ease to catch waves I would go around 6'6 x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2 or 2 5/8. The 6'4 will work but will require WAY more of a learning curve.

Thanks mathteacher! I'll keep my eye open for a 6'6. Not too many around though as there aren't many guys as tall as me over here!

If the price is right go for it. Eventually it will be the right size for you, so if you can'r ride it now keep it for later when you get better, at your weight it will be the right size eventually.

at 200lbs my smallest is 6'1 x 20 x 2 1/2 but have ridden smaller, just at 47yrs old I stopped trying to LOL

Oh, and the board in my avatar is a 6'4 x 19 1/4 x 2 1/2 when I weighed 180lbs

Back from the dead! I ended up going with the 6'4 board last season and I busted my butt learning to ride it. I got the point where I could make a lot of waves, especially when the surf was a bit bigger. Being able to duck dive is GREAT! My major problem was that I couldn't get the board up to speed well. I'd pop up, zoom down the face and then sink as the white water hit me. Actually I think I was sinking even as I was heading down the face. I went surfing with a guy who is really good...he took one look at me and said "You need a board with more width, less rocker, and thicker rails"..."You're having to lean way forward/put weight on your front foot to get the board any speed, and even then it's barely working. You're making it harder for yourself."

Soooo....I'm back to the drawing board. I felt like what he said was right...I probably won't progress much more with the current board.

Here's what I've come up with for about $350, which is my budget now.

Thicker/wider shortboard...6'5, 20 7/8 wide, 2 7/8 rails. Not much rocker.


OR a retro fish...specs are on the pic


OR this thing...6'8, 22" wide, 2 5/8 rails epoxy board...sitting in my local board shop used...$900 new, $350 used Might be too similar to my 7'4 minimal that I plan to keep...

Anyone, anyone, Bueller? It's a lil slow in here during the winter I guess!

I'm going nuts trying to decide what board to get next so I can get back out there!

Found this when looking the other day too...

Randy French Soulfish 6'6 21" 2 1/2...has a repaired broken nose and fin box...right at $350. Kinda steep.

So you have a 6'4 19 2 7/16 but its too small. You have a 7ft4 board but its too big. And a lot of the boards you are suggesting are quite close to the too small board eg 6'5, 20 7/8 wide, 2 7/8 is bigger but not by much for someone at your level (a more skilled surfer will notice the difference). 6'6 21" 2 1/2 is also marginally bigger but about the same thickness. Again you may not even notice.

The question is whether you want to get a board that makes things a lot easier, or a board that might be marginally bigger and might be marginally easier

I reckon the 6'8, 22" wide, 2 5/8 board is the way to go. Indeed, you could probably go even bigger - 6ft 10. But the one you have selected is going to be noticeably different, more volume, flatter rocker. Easier to paddle, easier to catch waves. Its still a board you can turn on and so forth (duck diving - yeah, at 180lb it shouldnt be an issue). Its a board to help you and, honestly, might be a board you can ride for a long time (as in, you could go shorter again but there is no magic about being short, there is magic in having fun and surfing). Or, if not, it becomes your small/weak wave board.

Great reply, and great food for thought. Thanks!!!