Surfing Waves

Just thought I would write a quick not to introduce myself. I went for a try surf about 4 weeks ago, and was instantly hooked. Used a hire softboard for the first couple of times, but then thought best to get my own. After advice from surf shop, went with a 7'6 mission mini-mal, partly due to the size of my car .. and really loving the waves

Been our around Porthcawl as much as I can at the moment, whilst off work (probably been out around 10+ times). I think I am doing ok so far. I tend to be able to catch a wave, and am getting to stand up ... although, I dont quite have the quick action of standing yet, so sometimes it has to be knee first, which I am trying to kick the habit of, as been advised a bad habit to get into

So far, this forum has been really helpful, and roll on some good waves soon. Although, I have had my first accident, and took off my rear fin, so is currently in for repair ... ah well, live and learn and wont be making that mistake again .. hopefully

Hi Albie999, welcome to Surfing Waves!

Apart from the fin, it sounds like you're off to a great start. It's great to hear you've found this forum useful, make sure you check out the rest of the site for lots of other helpful articles.

Cheers
SP

Surfing does seem to be addictive. I'm already checking out other boards that I would like, although think I will be sensible for now, and just learn what I need on the board that I've got

The one thing I cannot seem to nail, is the one move technique to standing on the board .. I presume that will come in time, unless there is any pointers you can give?

Hi Albie999.
Welcome to SW, It's my pleasure to point that there is a plethora of pertinent pointers on the particular practice of the pop up , that should you peruse them will help a lot.
Here is the link and there are lots here
viewforum.php?f=9

So with that greeting from New South Wales

Just thought I would post a quick update, as not been on the board for a while. Well, I have been trying to get out as much as possible, but with work and seemingly dodgy conditions of late, it has been hard going ... but still determined

Recently went out in one of the best conditions in Porthcawl of late, the waves were breaking at at least 4ft, and clean .. managed to catch some .. but once they started getting a bit bigger, I knew it was time to leave the water .. especially when I got totally battered by a wave, and have to say, it was the first and only time I felt scared in the water

Anyway, managed to get out this weekend, was struggling a little to still get up on my 7'6 .. so my mate asked if I wanted to have a go at his (Roger Cooper 9'6 long board). I have to say, what a difference and so much easier to surf with. I am now thinking that it might be a good idea for me to get a slightly larger board, whilst I am still a novice.

To that end ... what would people recommend .... not sure I want to go as big as 9'6, but maybe an 8'6 or an 8' ... not sure if an 8 would be much difference from what I am using now

Just a couple of questions Albie, we know you are old enough to drive but to advise you on board length height and weight would help immensely.

Without knowing that I'm guessing between 8 and 9ft. You will notice a difference

Def am old enough to drive .. ... height is 5ft 8, weight .... um ... prob about 12.5 stone. I've been doing okish on my 7ft 6, but, just finding that I'm not catching enough waves the small amount of times I am able to get out (once a week usually), and also when I do get a wave, finding the pop up difficult. Like I said, on my friends 9ft 6, soooo much easier, but not sure I wanted to go that big

You say you ain't catching enough waves when you go out ? . . . then why change the 'board ? . . . until you can catch 9/10 waves you paddle for (never mind the board / wave size and standing part) keep the board you have and just improve one stage at at time . . . keep us posted (I'm an experienced Gower surfer btw, good to have comm's with you over S-W).

[Hey Albie999 - I just realised . . . this is a question you asked that I answered . . . try creating a Thread of your own though to keep this introduction thread crisp and concise ]

I think that was my reason for looking at changing a board. If I am finding it difficult on the 7'6 then wouldn't a bigger board help me to learn? If I had a longer board, easier to catch the wave and therefore easier to learn ... that was my thinking

I suspect esonscar thought you were moving down in size.

Yes, all else being equal, a bigger board will be more stable and easier to paddle (and catch waves). Not all bigger boards are necessarily better (for your purposes) than what you currently have, but most longboard/malibu shapes will be. The greater the surface area of the board, the greater the stability; plus the wide and round nose shape of the mals creates a more stable platform.

Looking at the mission mini-mal online, it looks to be an epoxy board which are light and tough (good for beginners) but its fairly narrow for its length (21 1/4) meaning its not quite as stable side to side (many boards that size are 22 or 22 1/4 inch wide - that one inch can make a difference). Plus some epoxy boards are 'floaty' - they bob on top of the water rather than 'dig in' and grip the wave, meaning they are a bit slidey and unbalanced. None of this means its a bad board, but a longer and heavier and wider board might be noticebly easier at this stage.

If you do buy a longboard, its a board you will probably use for most of your surfing life - even if you end up doing airs on a tiny 5ft6 'potato chip', you will keep the longboard for the small or 'lazy' days. So dont feel its a waste of money or that you should just keep trying on your current board. That said, I reckon if you keep trying your current board you will get there eventually, but probably not as quickly as if you move to a longer board for a while.

I'm about your weight but 6ft3 and my 9ft board is plenty long enough; so as Jaffa said you can probably get away with something between 8-9ft. I would look at that length, with 22 inch wide or more and probably 2 3/4 to 3 inch thick (assuming a 'standard' board, rather than epoxy). Thruster (3 fins) rather than a single fin.

And your current board makes an excellent 'step down' board once you feel more confident.

DTC thanks for the info ... as a newbie, it is good to have this type of info, and was exactly what I was looking for, to give me a bit of info, if I do start looking at another board

Not been out for 3 weeks, with work and the conditions .. so hoping to get out soon on my mates 9'6 and see how I go again, before I make the decision to get another board. Def will be keeping hold of my mini-mal, as you say it is a good board to step down to when I finally start getting better .. which I hope is sooner rather than later

Just to add to my previous ... advice on any of the following :

http://www.surfdome.com/circle_one_surfboards_-_circle_one_bamboo_longboard_surfboard_-_8ft_6-71172

http://www.surfdome.com/bic_surfboards_-_bic_classic_e-comp_longboard,_white_-_9ft_0-29642

http://www.surfdome.com/cortez_surfboards_-_cortez_funboard,_blue_curve_surfboard_-_9ft_0-87730

http://www.surfdome.com/cortez_surfboards_-_cortez_funboard,_blue_stripe_surfboard_-_9ft_0-87737

I don’t know any of those boards myself (they seem to be UK only brands and I am in Australia) but the size and shape (outline) look fine. One concern is that they are all epoxy or EPS. Now this is a debate for another time, but some people like epoxy boards (and they are certainly tougher than PU - PU being the 'normal' or traditional surfboard) but they can also be floaty and skittish. I have only surfed epoxy boards a few times and didn’t like them much -but other people find them good. EPS boards can also be very floaty, although some of the higher end manufacturers are starting to use it. Anyway, your current board is epoxy so you probably have some idea whether you like it or not.

The boards you nominated are at the cheaper end of the scale and you probably 'get what you pay for'. I don’t know those boards in particular and they might be fine. However, I suspect you will find quite a difference (even at your level) between the boards you have nominated and the Roger Cooper you have tested. Size isn’t everything.

What I do suggest is to go into a few surf stores, which almost always sell second hand boards, and pick up a second hand PU longboard (or buy one off gumtree or ebay or whatever). If you google 'tips for buying a second hand surfboard' you can avoid problems - a store might be safer, because you can ask them to repair any dings or concerns as part of the purchase. You know the dimensions you want, with a large/rounded nose, a fairly flat board (flat rocker) with three fins.

Or even just get a Roger Cooper - just checked his website and they aren’t much more expensive than the boards you have suggested and there are some second hand ones listed. There are some good looking 8 and 9 ft ones for sale - just his 'standard longboard' at 9ft 1; or there is an 8ft mini mal. The 9ft will be easier but it will look huge. I should say I have also never surfed a Roger Cooper but his reputation seems better than circle one and cortez; plus you already know you like his boards.

DTC, really do appreciate the advice you are giving, this is the type of stuff I appreciate. Australia, you lucky person .. my mate just emigrated out to the gold coast, so thinking I might take a trip out there next year ... once I have got my surfing skills up

I will def take a look at the roger cooper board, especially as I didn't realise it is only about 40 mins down the road from me

Reality Check :
Learn to catch waves on your current 'board.
Once you can actually 'surf', the size and make and shape of the board board is irrelevant as you can then surf on any surfboard you grab a hold of (akin to the old surf films where you can often here 'Hey man, can I borrow your surfboard').
If you go changing your 'board all the time you'll never be a surfer. Go surf the one you have. The grass is always greener as they say. Hell, come get me (and drive me back home) and I'll teach you to surf the board you have using shouting and video!

I hated learning to surf but I say now . . walk before you can ruin, sorry, I mean run.

I'll have you on a bespoke custom within six months.

Here is my answer from 2 years ago, if you do a site search (riight of screen) for pop up there is more adivce on popus:

themathteacher wrote:The biggest mistake by newbs is to charge the lineup when trying to learn. Start in the whitewash, about chest high at most. Wait for a nice wall of whitewater and throw yourself towards the shore and onto your board and pop up, don't plop on your board either, get some speed. Ride it a little, not too shallow, then repeat repeat repeat.

Forget paddling, if you arent' poping up correctly you aren't catching waves, so concentrate on that in the beggining. Do 20 popups in the shallows every time you go out, then go to the lineup. You'll get better at standing up which will improve the rest...

esonscar, if the shouting will help, then I'm all up for it ..lol

Was hoping to get out on Sunday, but the conditions just didn't allow ... really hope get back in the water soon (working can be a pain sometimes .. lol)

^ yeah . . . rofl . . . But seriously though, learn to catch waves on what you have . . . If you are learning you are learning, the board size does not matter, and certainly not when it's over seven foot.

In fact here is a UTube vid of a short boarder who considers his 7'6 mission mini-mal a longboard (i just found this, no connection) . . .



I learnt to surf on a 6'2" custom which I still use to this day - So go catch ten waves out of ten attempts (never mind standing).

When you can catch ten waves out of ten, try and paddle for only ten green waves.

When you can catch green waves, do angled take offs and then do the standing up thing. . . forget the white-wash for pop ups, way too gnarly.

my 00.02

The thing is, I am catching the wave (usually), its just at the moment it is the next stage that is killing me, and as I cannot get out to often, it gets rather frustrating

I will keep trying with mine (with an occasional swap with my buddies) just wish I could get out more and improve .. maybe some lessons required? Although, not sure if they would be worthwhile or not?